panerai153

I got you. 2846 = 2836, 2842 = 2824. So the 2846 couldn't be used as a direct replacement for the 2824. Thanks

Marathon TSAR Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm pretty sure misielkped can handle a movement swap!! Give him a shout. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Another question, would the 2846 be a viable alternative to the Powermatic 80? Lots of folks use these in the vintage Rolex builds, like the 1680 sub. I know that some folks are converting an ETA 2824 to slow beat by changing out parts from the 2846 to make it into a slow beat, but why not just use the 2846 from the get go? I know it's not as cheap as converting an a2824 to low beat, but in the end, you have a movement that is slow beat from the factory and not a converted movement. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Correct you are sir, started life as a V3 but as you said it's much ,much better![emoji7]

FC V3 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe you are absolutely correct. As the prices for genuine parts increases almost exponentially every year, and the quality goes down, read "worn out", more and more folks will be forced to use aftermarket parts, or confine that lughole sub to the sock drawer. To reinforce this idea, i really believe that it is going on and has been going on for years. I know that supply houses like Startime and Orfei have catalogs full of aftermarket parts, and they sure as heck aren't there to assist us in building frankens, they are there to supply parts to the thousands of people with genuine Rolexes that cannot or will not spend the exorbitant prices that Rolex charges. I have a perfect example, back in 2002, i sent my late wife's Rolex Gold/SS datejust to Bob Ridley in Arlington, TX. Now if you don't know, Bob is pretty much considered "Mr Rolex" by most vintage Rolex guys. Bob overhauled the watch replaced the bezel and crystal (genuine), but the bracelet was really worn out. A new one from Rolex, even back 14 years ago was well over one thousand USD. Bob, suggested an aftermarket 14k gold and S/S bracelet, made in Italy, for about half that. Now here is a guy that is a confirmed Rolex person, but he had no qualms about suggesting a lower cost alternative to the expensive Rolex bracelet

Nothing ventured, nothing gained!!! Take the advice of the board, be very, very careful. If this is DW, he may or may not own up to actually being the DW that took some folks here for a ride. Remember this guy is skilled, he has been around for a long time and he knows what to say If this is the real DW, he has been around multiple times. His "modus operati" is the same. He is responsive, delivers and has good stuff. Problem is all this rocks along for a while and then he disappears, usually with a trail of unhappy customers who never got their goods. Another thing, when dealing with a non-trusted dealer and especially one that had a bad reputation, you are on your own. The moderators are not going to be inclined to get into your deal, should it go south. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes there is. Our Rolex guy misielkped can convert a yuki 3135 movement to a GMT using genuine Rolex parts. The converted movement has the correct hand stack. Also like the gen watches that have the settable hour hand, there is no quickset date. In all the modern Rolex GMT's , 16710, 116710 and the two tone and all gold versions of these, the quickset date was sacrificed to make the hour hand settable both forward and back. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Being pretty much a neophyte with Photoshop, i don't know all the little ends and outs of the program. You can do amazing things with it, but it's pretty daunting for the occasional user. Do you have any other suggestions as to how one protects their photos from piracy on the internet? I know that some websites have safeguards that keep someone from copying their photos, Ofrei is one that i know of but not sure if this is possible with photos posted to a website, like RWG.

Man, I can feel your pain!! As I told droptopman way back, this build is not for the faint of heart. I built one, let me rephrase that, I supplied the funds and a consortium of different members built it. I started out with a puretime 6542. Awful!! Just too many flaws to list. I was able to get a ming quy case from a fellow member that decided not to do the build. JoeyB was gracious enough to do the build initially. We started off with one of his dials, and his insert. Rafflestime GMT hand modded by joeyB. In the end, the only thing we used from the puretime was the movement, which later required a complete overhaul. We tried a gen crystal, but eventually settled on a Clark. Later when I had to have the movement overhauled, i added an Ingod dial. Probably close to the last of them before he disappeared. The final mod was sending the caseback to jmb to have the PanAm "meatball" and issue numbers engraved. Mine resides on a gen old Rolex jubilee bracelet. Ghe only thing that I might add would be a darker insert if joeyB has any. Mine is a little too bright red and blue, and the lexan that joeyB uses doesn't age and darken like the old bakelite inserts on the original Rolex 6542's. All in all these are difficult frustrating builds. As the OP said, lots of parts look like they will work, only to find that they don't!! Biggest problem today is finding a quality dial since Ingod is no longer in business. Correct movements are a problem as well. The original Rolex movement was a slow beat, so the newer movements are historically incorrect. JoeyB uses the DG3804 movement which is a slow beat movement. nice thing about it they are about 30-40 bucks, so if one fails, just throw it away and replace it with a new one. Incidentally, The color of your inserts is what I'm after. As you can see mine is more the color of a fresh new Pepsi Insert. the blue is not bad, but the red needs to be darker, more of a maroon almost. Both of your 6542's are real beauties. I'm sure if you decide to sell one of them, you won't have any problem. Here is my 6542 PanAm.

Not much information but it looks like it's in the UK. I tried to go through the checkout process and when I put in the address info, etc. It asked for region/state the drop down box only showed counties in the UK, not the states. I couldn't progress any further so couldn't see what the options were for delivery, payments etc. I would be very wary of this one. From the looks of the offerings, it looks like some of the DW parts, but who knows. He was buying his stock from someone, possibly another entity has the same source. And then again, it could be DW "back from the dead" a third or fourth time!! Yes he did leave some members hanging last time. Folks paid for watches and parts that were never delivered. IF it's him, I wouldn't touch this with a bargepole. Problem is there are lots and lots of new folks around that don't have any idea about DW or his past history. Those are the members I worry about, as they are blissfully unaware of the past problems, they will order and some will get their stuff, but if history serves us, at some point, he will take the money and run!!

I know that one of the sought after conversions to make the AP divers slow beat has been the Powermatic 80 movement ""cannibalized" from Tissot watches. This seems like a great fix, slow beat, new movement, 80 hour power reserve, and best of all, it's a direct drop in replacement. However, there is one big problem. This is essentially and "unfixable" movement. There is no way to regulate the timing as it's set from the factory, mine has plastic parts which may be OK, but over time may not be as good. Which in my case haven't been. About a month ago, my watch became very erratic, ran fine then stopped, this lasted for several days then it stopped, would not run at all. At this time my movement was probably around one year old, and it came out of a brand new Tissot. Sent it to misiekped, got it running, then after a couple of days, it stopped again. He cannot find any cause for the problem, and his recommendation was a replacement movement. While all this was going on, i posted on a watchmaker forum asking about problems with the Powermatic 80 movement. The responses were pretty much similar, but the gist of the answers were this is essentially a "disposable" movement, based on the fact that it has to be sent back to Tissot to be laser regulated. Even with a Swatch account, they felt like watchmakers couldn't do much with the movement,and what Tissot does is remove the faulty movement and chunk it. They replace it with a new movement and send the watch back out. probably at a pretty expensive price, as shipping both way to Switzerland from the USA plus the service isn't cheap. If the watch is still in warranty, of course another story, but for those of us who have the movement in our AP diver, that option is not possible. I'm pretty bummed about this, mainly because the movement is not cheap, considering you have to buy a watch to get the movement, have it installed, shipping, etc. For a repairable, regulatable movement, not a problem, but a movement that should it develop a problem, is essentially unfixable, i do have a problem. Finally, as the title suggests, is anyone else experienced any problems with this movement, or is everyone else's ticking merrily along, and i happened to get a lemon?

I really believe that this is and optical illusion. It looks pretty darn good to me.

Congrats on your 1000st post, and a big congrats to a really nice watch collection!! We are glad you are here. looking forward to hearing more and seeing more nice photos.

Maybe the mod team needs to look into this, especially if they are stealing photos. One way to prevent that is to label your photos with your forum name like Freddy does. They could probably Photoshop the name out, but it would be a lot more trouble. Here are a couple of examples of watermarking done in Photoshop Elements If you have a smooth background, probably better to have at least some part of the watermark overlapping the watch, if you have a busy background that would be hard to Photoshop out, then the lower right or left would be less intrusive. If I were using the top example, I would probably decrease the opacity to make it more transparent.

I too did not find the comments"hateful" rather they were educational. What purpose would be served by commenting on a watch that has lots of flaws, " great watch, beautiful watch, etc." The guy who commented is by far the most knowledgable AP guy on the forum, so I would take his constructive criticism as just that. A senior knowledgable member trying to help a noob. AFA Where to find one, go to the trusted dealer section and look at what they have to offer. Welcome to the forum and good luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sub, Before you send your hard earned money to any dealer, it would behove you to look at the dealer section, not only here but RWI and REPGEEK. Some dealers are on every forum, others only one or two. If the dealer above is listed on any of the forums, and the reviews are OK, then he is a trusted dealer on that forum. Personally, I would be very reluctant to buy from any non trusted dealer unless they had a lot of seamless, trouble free sales to senior members. In your case until you gain experience and get a really good handle on the ins and outs of rep buying, I would definitely stick to trusted dealers only. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How have you been communicating? Matt has kids and grandkids, as well as other interests outside of watches. He well may be away for a few days. If you left messages, I'm sure he will get back to you soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great group!!! Even if DH is "pretty in Pink" !!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lovely combination sir. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you fellows for the trust that you have shown to all of us "new guys". Like Legend so eloquently stated , this is probably the easiest of the forums to moderate. I say that primarily because for the most part the members here have a great sense of community, and treat each other with courtesy and respect. As i have stated to both nanug and Mike on a bike, the things that are of the most importance to me are honesty and civility. Because we operate in an anonomous world for the most part, everything is based on trust. I trust you to describe the watch you have for sale in the sales forum as honestly and completely as you can. I trust that you will deliver the same watch to your buyer, and not sell it ten times on several forums and run with the money. And it goes beyond sales, it is reflected in your everyday interactions with others. The second area is civility. Again, because we live in this computerized anonomous society, it sometimes becomes easy to say things that you would never say to a person in a face to face conversation. While this may make one feel "empowered, and superior" in the end, nothing good is gained. So esentially my feelings are that there is nothing wrong with spirited conversations, and disagreements as long as they do not deteriorate to character assassinations. The big reason that I feel this way is probably related to my experiences on other forums. Those that have the "wild west, anything goes" attitude, and seem to thrive on threads that rapidly deteriorate into name calling and shouting matches certainly have their followers, but i would bet that they run off more serious enthusiasts than they attract. When you fail to attract serious new members, you eventually find yourself with a dwindling membership and eventually a dead forum. Over the ten years that I have been here, there have been hundreds of good guys who were very active, but for whatever reason found other interests and eventually became inactive. To keep the forum alive and thriving, we have to have enthusiastic new members to take the place of those who have dropped out, as well as add new ideas and knowledge. Remember folks, that new guy asking questions was you a few months or years ago!! Thank you again, and my greatest hope is that i can make a positive contribution to RWG. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

While I can appreciate you guys enthusiasm, for some reason the snowflake hands just never generated any real positive vibes with me. I had a genuine 94011 Blue dial snowflake, and i liked it OK, but never really loved it. Sort of like these, I like them but not enough to go out and buy one. And the PVD model, why the straight ends and no endlinks? Really don't like that design. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I would expect that the price point between the rep and genuine are too close to make them economically feasible. Possibly some of the Grand Seiko models, but still doubtful. Remember to no matter what we say or think here on a rep forum,most reps are sold because the purchaser wants to wear and expensive watch with name impact. To the vast majority of folks, a Seiko is a Seiko, so the 150.00 USD models are lumped right in with the 3k USD models. So pretty limited appeal unfortunately. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why don't you send Legend a PM ? That's the usual protocol here, the prospective buyer contacts the seller. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk