panerai153

Probably not, but to those of us who are so OCD about watches that we would probably be branded as crazy by the average person, it is another step toward what we perceive as perfection. The vast majority of people cannot tell the difference between a Rolex and a Timex. And furthermore, they don't care. What determines whether you opt to spend the time effort and money depends on your comfort level with replicas, whether or not you are in the company of other watch fanatics who own gens, and your ability to pull off a particular watch, be it a rep or gen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They could have made this a lot simpler and a lot more reliable if they had left the sec@ 9 and had the totalizer @ 3, rather than the other way around!!

Raining cats and dogs here today so pretty much inside playing on the computer. The choice for today

Not seeing your photos sir!!

It's an ETA 2892 movement with a Dupuis Depraz chrono module . This module moves the seconds @9 to seconds @3. The module is to move the seconds counter and add a 45 minute totalizer, nothing to do with the date. What is weird, I looked at some of these on the web, and all the ones I saw didn't have the cyclops. The Monte Carlos which this watch is attributed to had a cyclops, but the one you have pictured is the first of the modern version with a cyclops.

T, That's a nice looking watch. I have had such dismal bad luck with AP ROO's with the sec@12 mod, I'm really, really gun shy about any of these "modified" a7750 movements. If this is a gen with a purpose made movement, then that's a different story. I would expect that that the ETA 7750 with the DD module would be as reliable as the similar one that makes up the LWO 283. Just read a bit nd it looks like at the onset these were selling fast, but were getting flipped at a pretty good pace as well.

Thanks automatic, I just got a message back from the seller and he was very cooperative. He said that the glass was attached when they took photos of the watch. From what it looks like, the crystal was glued in in just a couple of spots. I got a response from a guy on the Longines forum and he said it had a gasket to hold the crystal in place. From the photos I took, and just placing the crystal back in place, it's definitely loose. In fact it looks like there is room for a gasket around the crystal. I have contacted a watch repair facility that works on Longines and claims to have genuine parts, which I suppose you would need especially if the glass is not the correct one. this is a little beyond my scope. If I knew how the metal caseback came off, I might tackle it, but I have no idea as to whether it's screwed on or snap on. But looking it doesn't have any indentions or grooves that would allow you to use a caseback removal tool. I'm not going to experiment though, because if I screw something up, I'm screwed. Right now if I have someone else who knows what they are doing repair it, the seller has agreed to reimburse me for the repair. Thanks very much for your information and insight

No Problem, and hopefully this is all behind us.

To add to the intrigue, i just got a reply from a guy on the Longines forum on WUS. He said that the caseback crystal is held in place by a gasket, which is conspicuously absent in this watch!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

OK Guys, I know there is more watch knowledge here than on all the gen forums combined!! Well maybe that's a bit of and exaggeration, but the knowledge level here is impressive. So I need some help with a new arrival that came in with the following problem. Here is the problem. I bought a Lindberg Hour Angle watch from and EBay seller. watch looked in very nice condition, lots of photos and good description. The watch arrived today and after carefully unpacking it, I opened the Hunter case back to have a look at the movement. much to my consternation, the back crystal had fallen out and was sitting inside the hunter case cover. Obviously I cannot use the watch like this, as the movement is exposed to the elements, and if the glass comes out while wearing the watch, it could get sort of sideways and possibly do damage to the movement. I have messaged the seller with a couple of options, but first I wanted to check in here and see if anyone had ever experienced this problem with one of their clear caseback watches? Also if the seller wants to have me get it repaired and reimburse me for the costs, are there any suggestions as to who I might send it to and get the glass permanently put back in place. I know that guys here use UV cement to glue in crystals all the time, and from what it looks like this crystal had to have been glued in as I cannot see any other way to keep it in place. The crystal sits in a recessed groove. However I can't figure out if the caseback screws off or is it a snap on. It would be easy to glue the crystal back in if I could figure out how to remove the caseback. it needs to be cleaned up and then glue in the crystal. It's much trickier trying to do it in place, one drop of misplaced glue and the movement is glued together! Thanks very much Here are some photos. I put it on my Timegrapher and the rate looks really good, although the amplitude isn't anything to write home about. The others are the caseback open and the way the crystal sits when in place. the last photo is how I found it when I opened the Hunter case back.

Just got this in today. Longines Lindberg Hour Angle with a problem!!

I think a public apology is nice, but you owe Alvin a personal message with and apology as well.

Man, That was my friend Pierre Boudreaux from Pierre Part LA's sister, Odette. My friend Pierre, he kept telling Odette, "Odette, girl, you got to kill the gators to Make the boots, not kill the gators for the boots" Odette, she was some good looking girl, but she be a little on the simple side. She never figured it out, poor darling. But she be plenty popular with the boys. Odette she go out in the swamp, kill all those gators, the boys can sit on the porch and drink Dixie beer all day long, and she out there filling all their gator tags. That's the way things are in Pierre Part LA and here are the pichers to prove it!! This is the store that Odette bought with all them gators she slew And here's old Odette herself bout 20 years older and 30 pounds heavier. Fried gator ands Budweiser will sure stack them pounds on!! That's Odette on the left. Still looking good, and she still has most all of here teeth too!!!

The cost of engraving is multiples of the cost of the object engraved. The intricacy of the engraving, the type metal, the layout all help to determine the price. When you are having intricate scrollwork cut into small hard to reach areas, i can assure you the cost will be high!! Especially since the material is Stainless steel which is pretty hard and more difficult to cut. Another thing, there is no margin of error! If you make a miscut, usually it can't be hidden and the object goes in the trash.All of the nice engraving you see with Western belt buckles, bits, spurs, etc. are silver or gold which are much softer and easier to engrave. As and aside I saw a post by Angus (Puretime) over on RWI today with a photo of a really nicely engraved AP stainless steel diver. Just wondering if reps are going to start turning up in engraved models. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Can you plug the stem hole in the case and redrill it, like the guys are doing with the AP ROO frankens. They have to reposition the stem to use the correct movement as they also cut the midcase down to gen specs. There are a couple of guys over on RWI who have set up shop and are doin g the builds here in the USA now, used to have to send your watch to Domi in Germany to get the work done. I believe they are called C& W workshop or something like that. occb2, your watch looks great!! I suppose it should since it's all gen except for the movement!! It's really sad that no one has stepped up to the plate and built a good midcase for the 1675/16750 builds. There is a huge amount of interest here, and I'm sure on other forums as well, and there really isn't anything out there that works well. Same for the later GMT II models. Nothing short of a gen midcase is available. Biggest problem that I can see if you go with all gen parts, case, dial bezel/insert crown, bracelet and a mike modified yuki 3135, I would bet that you are getting really close to the price of a all gen 16710.

Revere, this isn't the same as the ultrasound that they use in OB/GYN offices to show you and your wife what the baby looks like. The name for this device is Extracorporeal Shock Wave Lithotripsy(ESWL). This device sends waves into a very concentrated area to break up the stone. It is a great procedure for stones that are too big to pass on their own. This machine breaks up the stone into small pieces that will pass. We provide the anesthesia for these procedures, and while some patients experience little discomfort, those with little or no pain tolerance say it is pretty painful. From what everyone says it's like being slapped on your flank where the stone lies to being hit by a baseball bat!! The machine fires about 100-120 times so you are getting slapped or baseball batted that may times. Takes about 30 -45 minutes total and really works well.

What I always say to folks contemplating a purchase, if you are not sure about what you are buying, then research, research, research. I'm not a Heuer expert, but I know how to find "stuff" . I took the OP's title "Heuer Chronograph Bicompax 7734" pasted it into Google , and instantly there were all sorts of information, including lots and lots of images of this and similar Heuer chronographs. It took about 5 minutes total to determine that the hands didn't match anything that Heuer ever put on these models. So, guys, let the internet be your friend. Use the vast knowledge base lurking on the internet to help you make wise decisions. Had the OP done this before buying, he would have seen quickly that something wasn't right with this watch. Nightwatch, what is so nice about this forum, is that people will take that 5-10 minutes to help others who are seeking answers. And for the most part, the answers are accurate and pertinent which makes them so much more relevant.

Sorry sir, i always hate to be a bearer of bad news. And like you, i have made quite a few "impulse" buys that i lived to regret. One thing that i have learned in my journey through life, unless something you are buying is truly a "one of a kind" or something that is truly rare, it's best to do your research and ask a lot of questions, because if this one sells in the meantime, there will always be another one. Better to pass on some until you are comfortable in your knowledge, than rush in and buy something that ends up not being what you thought it was. Good luck and hopefully you can convince the seller to let you return the watch. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I really don't think there are any good replica vintage GMT's from dealers. they have several glaring faults. one the case is too thick (The gen 1675's 16750's have thin cases compared to the reps) second and most glaring, the gens have a tiny 5.3mm crown, all the reps have a 6mm crown. Anyone who is knowledgeable about the vintage GMT's can spot it from a ways away. They are probably the least accurate and hardest to get accurate of any of the vintage Rolex watches from that era. They are also difficult to mod mainly because of the case/crown issue. Most folks who have built really nice ones are using other cases, either from and aftermarket supplier like phong, NDT, MingQuy, or some of the 1655 Explorer cases. You can do it, but it's pretty expensive to really do it right. Not trying to discourage you, but I would read the threads here as there have been quite a lot of builds here. The guys who have done it are a lot better able to steer you in the right direction.

Also the man who posted here, mymanmatt, builds the best DJ outside of Rolex. Don't know about this model, but his are pretty darn awesome. You can wear his " best Rolex" anywhere with absolutely no chance of ever being suspected of wearing a rep.

You can buy these elongated hole punches from sellers on Ebay. they have various sizes, need to find out what size you need for the correct punch. I'm sure someone on the forum can chime in and tell you what you need.

From all that I have seen, the seconds hands are mostly red or orange and are thin needle hands. This seconds hand looks like a seconds hand from a vintage Doxa. It has been replaced. Certainly possible to find a hand that is correct, but maybe not easy. The hour and minute hands look pretty similar to what I have seen (photos), but they are not the originals either. this model has lume only about half way on the hour hand and upper third on the minute hand. Probably too late to do anything, but it might be worth contacting the seller and asking him about the hands. You might also go over to WatchUSeek and post a question on the Tag Heuer forum. Post a photo and ask them to comment, also you might inquire there as to where you might find a hand set. Even more modern parts for Tag are hard to find, as from what I have gathered, Tag is hard to deal with when it comes to parts. I have been searching for and original insert for a Tag watch that belongs to a colleague of mine, and all I can find are aftermarket, and his watch is from the 90's!! So finding a correct handset may pose a challenge. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Congrats to all you "youngsters" who are fortunate to have quite a lot of choices for your birth year watches. Like JoeyB, when you are looking at birth-year watches from the 1940's (JoeyB may a bit younger so his may be from the 50's!!) there really aren't a whole lot of appealing watches to chose from. First off, most of the watches were very small. Unless you are tiny with skinny wrists, a 32-34mm watch is not something that you are going to wear regularly. Manual wind, not much water resistance, and movements that are 60-70 years old are pretty fragile, compared to more contemporary watches. Of all the watches from my birth year, the Longines "Weems" pilots watch would definitely be high on my list. Most everything else from that era would be considered a dress watch today. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Maurice Lacroix, one that gets little wrist time!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk