panerai153

Are you by any chance looking for a "birth year" 5513? This one looks nice, but it would have been better if they had a few more photos. I know that getting good photos of gilt dials/hands is very difficult. I have a couple of MKII Kingstons with gilt and at some angles, they look silver. You have to get the light and reflection just right , but they are really something when they are viewed from the right angle. Have you tried a WTB over on the Vintage Rolex Market ? Lots of stuff changes hands over there.

that was a method to use for a semi quick set way back with older Rolex movements. I believe I use to do that years ago with and early Datejust. I bought it from and AD and they were the ones that showed me the way to move the hands back and forth to advance the date I found this in and article on date setting of non quickset watches. some of the older watches simply did not have a quick method of setting the date, that came later, to check to see if your date can be set quickly, turn the hands forward until past midnight when the date flicks over, now turn the hands backwards until the date starts to move again, now this should occur around 8 0r 9 o'clock now either one of 2 things will happen, if the date moves back a bit then jumps back to the same date then you have a quick set date, all you have to do is wind the hands back until the date flicks wind the hands forward and it should jump to the next number, go back and forth until the right date comes up then set to time remembering the am/pm time period. I don't know that I would utilize this method, but Rolex endorsed this way back when. In researching it, there were some folks who said that if your Datejust movement was old and worn, this method wouldn't work.

Tried to sell this one, couldn't so wearing it!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That was great. I am constantly in awe of the talent and imagination of folks!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I believe that today, it's probably a good place to start to make a reasonably priced 1680. If you like the watch, and you want to step up to a better version later, there are several avenues, but at greater expense. And old MBW case set, or a phong, make great cases to start a really nice 1680. Add the 702 crown, gen insert/ pearl, gen or good aftermarket crystal, gen dial, slow beat like a serviced ETA 2846 movement and a good bracelet with 580 end links and you have a really, really nice 1680. Putting that all together is going to cost a fair amount, and I would make sure that a 1680 is what you want before spending a lot. Just my personal opinion, but there are more good white dials available, and like I said gens can be had at a fairly reasonable price. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I agree JMB would be your man. However what yo uare looking for is pretty straightforward, sounds like you need a movement ring installed and the correct hands installed. pretty much any of the repair people/modders on this or the other forums could do that. You should be able to find a watch repair person around your area, I would definitely steer clear of any of the AD's as well as the big jewelry/watch stores. What you need is a guy that's operating a little one man shop in a strip mall or downtown in a small storefront or out of his home. Maybe some of the good folks in the SF area can chime in and help. Also, you might post in the general discussion forum "repair person in the SF bay area. Also search in the old posts.

Very well said. As a general rule, owners of genuine watches, be they Rolex, Omega, AP, or most any other brand, don't know a thing about their watches, the company or the history of the brand. They could care less, all they know is they own a Rolex, probably because they say the ads, their boss owns one, they see successful people wearing them, and they believe that owning one will be and automatic entree into that select group of people. Most folks here on the other hand are passionate about watches, some for a particular brand others for anything that "ticks"!! Unfortunately, we like most folks are guilty of type casting,so when someone comes on here and asks questions like the OP did, we typecast them into the first group of folks, no interest in watches, only want one, not interested in gaining knowledge, just wants simple answers to complex questions, "tell me what watch I need to buy to impress my friends", I"ll buy it and I'm gone!. After having dealt with lots and lots of folks like the OP, most of the older more experienced members tend to give them pretty short shrift. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why don't you post this as a separate thread? It's not polite to jump in the middle of someone else's thread. There are tons of threads about Explorers, spend some time reading and researching the various options. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

6542 today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with most above. Unless you ask for WU or one of the money transfer companies like WU, you can still get a chargeback if the buyer uses a credit card.I firmly believe that the best safeguard is to ask a lot of questions, no sin in asking a new buyer to give you some history on this and other forums. Read their posts, that sometimes gives you a feel as to how someone operates. If the prospective buyer has previous transactions, PM the seller and ask if there were any problems with the sale. Most of all, if you have any misgivings about the sale, better to back off than be sorry later.

It's very hard to find a watchsmith who will work on the A7750 movements, and less likely to find one that will fool with the "time bomb" models, I.e the sec@ 6 and sec@ 12 variations. Parts are not readily available and the movements can be unreliable. Getting the movement tightened up is not a problem, nor is the bezel problem. Best deal if you can't find someone local is to contact the folks who advertise repair and modding services here and the other rep forums.

And no sec@12!!!!

Look at his post count, 7-8 posts over 7 years, obviously this guy makes and annual visit. Why waste times on non contributors like this idiot.

Daytona, MAN!! you have put together some seriously nice AP ROO's. You must have a key to the back door of your AP service center to get all those great genuine parts

Coming to a dealer near you very soon!!

Looks pretty good! Only thing is, the 50 on the inner bezel, looks like the 5 and 0 are either touching or really close. I wouldn't upgrade from a V3 but if I were looking to buy my first one, this one is worth considering.

You are so full of crap, your eyes are yellow! First off I don't know one paying member here that is a dealer shill. If the dealers offer good products with a modicum of service we are happy with them, when they deliver crappy watches, or their service sucks, we are the first to let them know about it. The dealers are here by invitation, and if they screw up they can be uninvited as well. From my standpoint, I could give a rat's ass about the dealers. About 95% of the reps I have purchased over the past 10-12 years have been from other members. And as far as your Time is Money theory, if spending a few minutes reading thru reviews too time consuming then my advice would be to save your money, stroll into an AD and buy a gen.but if you want a rep, and you want help,as Dbane said, if you want to know which is the best of anything, you have to be more specific. Another problem with asking questions like this is the answers are totally subjective. Ask one guy which is the best sub, and it might be a BK 16610, the next guy may say an MBW 16613, the next guy may say it's a built from parts 6538, so asking questions like this are like asking guys "what's better blondes or redheads"? Only the person buying the watch can determine which is best. And since time is money, that's all the time I'm going to spend answering your inane post. And by the way since you average about one post per year, you have used up your quota for 2014! See you next year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I probably wouldn't pay that much considering the dial is not pristine, the case has plating problems and the movement is not working. Can your watchsmith even find parts for that old movement? That one even precedes the 1030, and we know how hard it is to find parts for that one!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. You know there have been a lot if folks on the rep and gen forums with magnetized watches, I wonder how many are due to IPad case magnets? I have one, and I use it a lot, my watch is pretty close to the case for long periods of time. Any idea as to what is a safe distance, or do you have to lay your watch directly on the magnet ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was able to Google Rolex 6298 and saw one Gold that was for sale on Chrono24. They did not say if it was solid gold, plated, capped, etc. this is a very interesting watch. Nice examples in S/S are selling for upwards of 10k. Don't think this one is close to that, but it's still worth a good bit of money. What is the asking price? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Next question will be "what is a TC, bk and TD" please supply me with all the pertinent information, as I am a busy man, and I don't have time to waste looking for this information! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So what are you doing here sir, just trolling for a fight? First off, I don't think the vast majority if us take ourselves too seriously, or are we pompous guardians of the facts on reps. But what we are serious about is knowledge, and that extends to reps and genuine watches. We have realized over the years of participating in both rep and genuine watch sites, is that knowledge can only be learned by reading and research. And another factoid that may surprise you is that most of the members here not only own a bunch of reps, they also own a large number of genuine watches as well, and I'm not talking about a watch box full of Timex's and assorted department store and Walmart watches, but some very expensive brands like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Omega,etc. AFA the guy/gal who wants to quickly buy a watch and not get scammed or receive one that is "utter rubbish"to quote you, I would advise that they spend their 400.00 USD on a new mid range genuine watch. They will get a new watch, a warranty and peace of mind. What of course they won't be able to do is show off their new "Rolex" to all their friends at the local bar. If they are serious about buying a good rep, then stick around and learn like we all did. All forums,of every ilk live or die by member participation.I heartily welcome any and all who are willing to contribute by participation. I will eagerly share my meager knowledge with them. If however they are among the "hit and run" crowd, I have no time to waste on them. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

A, my friend, you must be a diplomat in real life or at least one at heart, I'm the 70 year old curmudgeon!! Not that I don't did like noobs, after all we were all one at one time, but when folks ask these questions after they register and are a one minute old member, it gets old pretty fast. What really irritates me is that most of these folks come on here or other forums, register, pick our brains, buy a watch, and are gone, never to be heard from again.no membership, no contributions, just directions to a website, buy a watch and if all is well, never hear from them again, but if it's not right,WHAM!! A Paypal dispute is filed!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looks like folks over there are asking some hard questions about the costs of the build, etc. the seller got pretty defensive, but you can bet that most folks who are willing to shell out those kinds of bucks will want EVERY question answered. I know I would, this one is way out of my league though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is the biggest gripe I have with my X Pro 1. When using the 60mm in macro mode + low light, it drives me crazy with it's "hunting" and inability to lock in the focus. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk