panerai153

Very nice looking Safari. Does this model come with the tang buckle rather than the Deployant? I would like to convert all of my (3) AP ROO's to the tang buckle, as I find the deployant very uncomfortable.

Congrats, The FC Divers are really nice watches. I have the FC V3, and it's close enough to forgo moving to a "better" model. AFA the Rose Gold, I'm not sure if they is a later version. I have one and I believe it's V6? I like it a lot, really don't wear it all that much, but it's certainly nice for those occasions where you are not wearing a dark suit or Tuxedo, but you aren't in jeans and a Polo shirt (Not that you can't wear it with any of those, but that's what the FC and the S/S are for!! Here's mine

I remember paying around 500 USD for a Daytona back around 1978-79. I kept it for around a month, never could get used to the manual wind/no date. Swapped it back to the same AD for a 1680 Submariner. In retrospect a pretty lousy trade!! At that time, the Daytonas were not very popular, they were sort of swimming against the tide as most folks were interested in autowind watches with date features. the Daytona to many was a step backward.

Here is my little chrono group Top Row from Left- Tudor Prince Date(Franken), Tudor (genuine) Rolex Gold Daytona 6263, Rolex Pre-Daytona 6238 (ETA 7753 movmt.) Bottom Row from Left- AP Rubberclad (Modded), AP Safari, AP Rose Gold Rubberclad, Edox (genuine)

I believe that lots of folks are using the 7750 as sort of a generic descriptor. If you look at some of the watch supply catalogs, there are quite a few different models in the "7750" family. I believe that they are all loosely referred to as 7750's. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with Tom, first you need to measure the dial that's in your watch now. If it's a standard Rolex size, EBay is your best bet. Get a gen dial, they aren't terribly expensive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Diesel, you would need an ETA 7753 movement, not an ETA 7750. the ETA 7750 has the subdials at 12,6,9 running seconds at 9 . the ETA 7753 has the subdials at 3,6,9 , running seconds at 9. the problem is these movements have gotten very expensive. The best price that I could find for an ETA 7750, about two months ago was 379.00 USD The ETA 7753 is around 575.00 USD that's the going price from the major suppliers here in the USA. Both of these are brand new sealed ETA movements. So if one is planning to use a genuine ETA movement in a Daytona build, they should know ahead of time that the movements are going to be expensive. The Pre-Daytona 6238 below has an ETA 7753 movement inside, this was the last watch that Ziggy built for me before he closed up shop. Here is my gen Tudor Big block that uses the 7750 movement And here is my Rolex Pre-Daytona that uses a 7753 movement

We have the same situation here in the USA, since folks started using the Postal systems "Click and ship" When you print a mailing label, the info goes to the Postal computer, but it doesn't show up in tracking, in fact if you try to track, it says number not found. It doesn't start tracking until it's accepted and scanned at the drop off Post office. Just have patience, unless the number is incorrect, it will show up in tracking pretty soon. If not, contact the TD and have them check the tracking number for accuracy.

The 12.00 USD is for the IPhone app. I have had it for a while, and it is a very good, handy app. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lots of folks have had problems with him though, some seem to get on really good with him, but others have real issues. Back when he was taking PayPal, I would take a chance, and I have gotten some good stuff from him, but last year when he started getting more and more erratic and got his PayPal account suspended, I refused to go through with a deal for a Daytona 6263. Just too much risk sending money to someone like that via WU. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

This link didn't take me to anything related to Matt. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Cat, man My heart and prayers go out to you and your family. I'm sure the guys here will help you get rid of your reps, and possibly help with a gen. Let us know how we can help.

I'm pretty ambivalent, but all in all I like to use it to pay for goods and services. I don't like giving my credit card information out to every business that comes along. I have had two big problems with AmEx where someone got my card info and the first time, charged over 6k and was still trying for more when the fraud department called me. AmEx is great to work with, I recalled my last charge that was legit, and everything else was taken care of. Second time some college students got my info, and went on a spending spree, same thing, fraud dept. called me and we figured out my last legit charge and everything else went away. With PayPal , the merchants never see any of your card info. One tip if you are using credit cards, call your card company and have them flag your account for "other" shipping addresses. I have mine set up that they will only pay a charge online that is to be shipped to my billing address. That prevents someone using your card info and shipping goods to and address in another state or country. Droptop, when I buy something, it always comes out of my PayPal balance then reverts to my bank account, I have to click on change to get the list and chose my "Bill me Later". I believe something is not set correctly in your profile.

Anyone who deals with DW now deserves just what he gets!! He has proven time and time again that he is totally unreliable and dishonest. I'm sure Ebay suspended his store after the 5 negative feedbacks in a row in the last month. To the OP, DW Daytonas come up for sale here and on the other rep sales forums from time to time, just be patient, you will find one.

Sir, you obviously did not read the rules. this is a discussion forum only, not a sales or want to buy forum. both of those are in another section of RWG. Please do not post WTB or FS in this or any other discussion sections.

Very, very sage advice Mr. A . and to the OP, heed this advice sir and you shouldn't go far astray.

Very nice review. I wish My wife would wear a rep, but she absolutely will not!!

For your first AP rep, and considering that you don't have a really deep and wide knowledge base of AP watches (No insult, we all started out at the bottom!!) , I would follow nightwatch's advice and invest two thirds of what you would spend on a ROO Chronograph and get a nice AP diver either the forged carbon version or the stainless steel I have a V3 Forged carbon and a V5 S/S and they are both very nice watches with good solid movements. There are later versions of both watches that are very nice. Another factor to consider, and I know some folks will disagree with me on this, but the ROO chrono has an A7750 movement that has been modified to change the running seconds from the 9 o'clock position to 12 o'clock. This has been problematic with some movements, and although there are supposed to be better versions of the A7750 in the new versions of the ROO chronograph, I'm not totally convinced that they have solved the problem. And here is the deal, you may get a watch that runs flawlessly and you never have a problem, but if you happen to get one with a "bad" movement, it's a nightmare, and one that is almost Impossible to fix. I know from experience, I have 4 ROO Chronos, two have never given me a minutes trouble, the other two have been nothing but trouble. One has been back and forth to the repair person three times and is still with him, hopefully getting another movement finally. The other has been back and forth twice and I just got it back a few days ago, and it is running fine now, so hopefully it's fixed. So my advice to you is walk into the water from the beach, don't jump off the end of the pier into deep water!! Buy a Diver, read, research, look at what others have and what they say and then you can make and informed decision. Also there is a wealth of information over in the AP forum.

I thought that was supposed to be later , first part of next week. maybe they had everything ready and decided to move forward with the upgrade.

I have the same problem!! Several years ago, I was down to around 5-6 watches, all gen. I decided then that I would limit my collection to 10 watches, no more. If I wanted more, had to sell some. Well this lasted about a year, and gradually, I started adding more and not selling any. Now, I have over forty. I probably have a core of around 20 that I wouldn't want to get rid of, the rest, are ones that I probably wouldn't miss. Another problem that I have encountered, it's darn hard to sell a lot of reps without taking a total bath. I have two right now on the sales forums, both are very nice watches solid reliable in very nice condition. Both are priced well below what I have in the watches. Almost no interest at all. I'm sure I could sell both of them if I were willing to slash my asking price to 50% or less of what they cost me. I'm not going to sell a 500 dollar watch for 250 dollars. I bet thee are lots of folks out there that find themselves in the same situation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Back to the AP FC for today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have to say, when Mike sprinkles his "pixie dust" on a watch, magical things happen. This is a beautiful build, one to be proud of. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

M2M shortest was overnight Longest was probably around 4 weeks from a TD. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On his old website, he had quite a large variety of hand sets. I bought the hands for my Tudor "big crown" from him. good quality parts.