panerai153

Just to make it more complicated, there is a Gold wrapped 11613 for sale over on RepGeek. Guy wants 730.00 USD. About 200.00 less than new. May be worth a look. AFA the wear factor, it's impossible to predict how long either will last. Everyday to one person is not everyday to someone else. Are you working in a hot environment that generates sweat, or are you in and a/c office with a long sleeve shirt on? What I will say is this, the gold wrapped is going to last longer than the plated if both were worn under the same conditions. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I agree 100 % with automatic. First off for everyday use even a genuine gold is not a great idea. 18K gold is soft. It will wear. Of course it's gold all the way through so it won't show, but over time things will get thin, the bracelet will get stretchy (Faster than a S/S bracelet) and replacing gold parts are really expensive. So from that I would go with the S/S ,gold TT version. Personally, I would buy the cheaper version and see if it's "singing to you". Hate to see you spend a ton of money and then decide it's not for you. If you really like the watch then you might start thinking about upgrading. The cheapest and easiest to do today is the 16613. Lots of gen dials, bezel inserts and crowns around, aftermarket 14K bezels and with a good case and bracelet you are in business. On the other hand, the newer 11613 is a lot newer watch, thus the parts are not as available and are more expensive. I have no idea what a gen insert and dial would cost you. Also a TT bracelet is not even available as and aftermarket at a reasonable price. So, if you were to build a really high end 11613, it would probably cost you twice what a comparable 16613 would cost. Mymanmatt built me a pretty nice 16613 a couple of years ago. We started out with what I thought was a fairly good 16613 rep. NOT!! by the time we finished, the only thing left was the bracelet and movement. Mine has a gen dial, gen crystal, crown and bezel insert. aftermarket 14K bezel and an aftermarket case correctly engraved by jmb. Matt plated the midlinks so no S/S is showing. I would expect that including the cost of the 1st watch, I have under 2K in the watch. Here is mine

It truly is a minefield, but to me the best way to find flaws is to get a good photo of a genuine watch (the model you want) and then compare the gen to the rep. After all, we are all trying to achieve reps that are more Gen-like, so the best way is to start looking at a gen and compare. All reps are going to have problems, it's just that every model or version is going to have a little different problem. Lots of these can be solved with gen parts and careful case modding, but then you start to get into a good bit of money. So my advice would be to look at the various ones that the dealers are selling, compare them to a gen, and then pick the one that has the least numbers of flaws that you can live with. AFA the one you have, I would keep the box and throw the watch away!!! Just kidding, but it serves as a good example of problems with a cheap rep. Here is a gen P serial 16610

There is a similar thread posted in the Rolex Forum back in mid December. Someone came up with a name of a guy in Toronto. One of the members who lives there was going to check it out, but never posted a response. Where are you in Canada? I moved watches back and forth many times when Ziggy was operating from Nova Scotia. It was not difficult, but there is a certain protocol that must be followed to keep[ from having to pay duty on your watch when it's returned to you in Canada. Here is the contact info for the guy in Toronto. http://www.wjwatch.com/ Address: #501, 21 DUNDAS SQUARE, TORONTO, ON, CANADA Phone: +1 416-368-4044 Phone: +1 416-901-2580 Email: info@wjwatch.com Business Hours Monday ~ Friday: 9 am ~ 6 pm Let me say this up front, he is not known to us and thus we can not recommend him or intervene should you and him have problems going forward. Before you send your watch to ANYONE, do your due diligence, ask around, here and on other forums. Make sure you are comfortable with the repair person before you send anything to him. Keep a copy of all your correspondence should you have any dispute or problems later. If you want your watch returned in a certain container, with insurance, etc. make sure you discuss all this up front.

Good man, and he will get you going.

I have always thought Ryan was a good upstanding guy, but honestly, I agree with Mike. How the hell would he know that you didn't include a phone number on the shipping label ? Unless, you sent him a photo of the shipping label to prove that you sent it back. Also agree with Mike, this is a really simple fix and anyone with the proper screwdrivers and case opener could have fixed it probably in 10 minutes or less. Most noobs don't read, hence they stumble into problems like this. Anyone could have told the OP that sending a watch back is a real "Last resort" situation.

Good luck trying to get info from Rolex. They guard their information zealously. Probably more likely to have CocaCola an Kentucky Fried Chicken divulge their secret recipes!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very nice!! Also never heard of this brand. Interesting how they switched the seconds hand, I can't remember ever seeing a small seconds watch with the seconds counter @ 3 Have to say sir, this is a great first post. Informative and interesting. Thanks for adding to our knowledge base.

Rolex crystals are probably clearer when new than replacements, whether or not it's worth 125 USD difference is up to you. I will say a genuine "Top Hat" Crystal for the 1680 is outstanding. None of the replacement or aftermarket crystals can come close to it. The "Black hole" is not relevant to the older non AR Crystals. They don't have any "Black hole" effect. The "Black hole" is a phenomenal of the later sapphire crystals like the one on the 116710 GMT IIC. These crystals had no AR on the crystal overall, except for the area under the cyclops. When you turn the watch in certain ways, the cyclops blacks out, thus the "Black hole. Much easier to read the date as the AR cuts down the reflections. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So true Sir. I couldn't remember what these sold for back in the 70's, I was thinking around 50 bucks. It's just amazing how vintage parts have accelerated in the past few years. No end in sight either, as these old parts get scarcer and scarcer, they can only go one way UP!!!

Looking through all my old bracelets, bracelet parts clasps, etc., and happened upon this little jewel. I don't remember when I bought it, or for which watch. I've had a few Daytonas over the years and I'm sure it was for one of them. Probably sold the watch and the buyer didn't want to pay for a gen bracelet! Put it in a zip lock and stuck it in my bracelet parts drawer. I was looking for a replacement to go on the 6238 that I have for sale, and came across this one. It's a 19mm C+I bracelet made in the USA. According to the research that I have done, back in the 60's and 70's Rolex was getting hit pretty hard with customs and excise taxed on watches being brought into the USA. They decided to manufacture replacement bracelets in the USA to escape the customs duty. They imported the watch heads from Switzerland and added the bracelets here. What makes these bracelets unique is that many of them do not have any numbers on the endlinks, no bracelet model number and very simple stamping on the clasp. They also differ from the Swiss made bracelets in that the rivets have hollow heads , whereas the Swiss made Rivets have a solid rounded head. I expect that these were also offered as lowed cost replacement alternatives to the Swiss bracelets. Another interesting aside to the story were the "Hecho en Mexico" bracelets that still turn up from time to time. Many of these are also stamped Joske's. Joske's was a big department store in San Antonio Texas that sold everything. They were a Rolex AD as well as other watch brands and fine jewelry. Their wares ran the gamut from Rolex watches and women's fashion to saddles, ranch supplies, boots and firearms. They were the complete one stop shopping experience!! Joske had bracelets made in Mexico, probably for the same reasons Rolex USA was making bracelets in the USA, Joske could just make them cheaper in Mexico. While the C+I bracelets are probably not as desirable as the Swiss made bracelets, like everything else Vintage Rolex, they are not cheap. I have seen recently 20mm C+I bracelets in good condition selling for over 2000.00 USD. the 19mm bracelets are not as expensive, but ones in really nice shape are selling for 700-800 USD !! Just a little trivia related to obscure Rolex "stuff"

Very late to the thread as well, but I believe the point here is to visually illustrate how far reps have come over the past few years. From the days of Rolex Day/Dates with Quartz movements, no lume, 1x cyclops mag and gold plating that you could almost rub off with your shirttail, to this beautiful example that is so close to the genuine that almost half the guys here picked the rep as the gen. Absolutely amazing progress over the years. And what makes it more amazing is the price difference. A franken like this one that is virtually indistinguishable from the real McCoy for 20-25% of the gen. And as automatico stated, there is in the gen, the inevitable budget busting service and repairs. The franken movement on the other hand can be replaced every 5 years with a brand new ETA movement for less than half the cost of a movement service. Thanks legend for a great thread. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Very nice. You now have homages to a couple of the most iconic dive watches around, the BP fifty fathoms and the Doxa 300t Searambler. Great job. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just wanted to chime in here regarding vintage Rolex parts. I firmly believe that a seller has every right to ask "current replacement value" for parts. While few of us do, most will settle somewhere between what we paid and what it would cost to replace. While that is OK for the guys like me that only build occasional frankens, guys who do a lot of modding need to replace parts and it's not feasible to sell low and then lose money trying to replace parts at a higher price. As Freddy stated, the "crazy" prices asked for vintage Rolex parts today will be the bargains of tomorrow! I just found that out a couple of days ago researching the prices on a Rolex 7205 Rivet bracelet. I was selling one and wanted to get and idea of the prices. Went to the VRF to check prices. Was I surprised!! These 19mm bracelets were selling for a 200-300 bucks a few years ago. Prices I saw on the marketplace was one for 1000.00 USD , up to 3900.00 Euros!!! But who knows, in a few more years they maybe 10K. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RWG modder of the year 2016 misiekped, mymanmatt RWG crew member of the year 2016 Legend RWG veteran of the year 2016 Nanuq

I believe that Legend should be commended for going out on a limb and trying to get this resolved. He did have some risk, because while he has a credit card with strong anti-fraud protection, events could have unfolded in such a way as to cause him to lose his funds. Kudos to you my friend! Some lessons should be learned from this debacle. First off, Paypal gift is really, really risky. I would never take a chance on PP gift unless it was someone I have known for a while as well as someone who is a participating member with a really strong sales history here and other forums. If the seller insists on PP gift, and has little or no history here or other forums, I would run not walk away from the deal. Even with regular PP, it is much better to link through a credit card. Then if the deal goes South, you have the resources of the CC company behind you. Believe me AMEX and Visa are much more capable of getting their funds back that you are. I would not use a debit card as a payment source unless I knew beyond a shadow of a doubt that my bank would refund me in case of fraud. Some banks do, some don't. As has been said here a million times , buy the seller first, then the watch. Fortunately for Legend, he had his ducks in a row before he finalized the sale. The other buyer may not be so fortunate. Guys, let's don't make it easy for scammers. Do your due diligence before you buy, protect yourself in the event it's a scam or the deal isn't what it appears to be and last, if you are in a deal that even appears to be going sour, let the mod crew know. Sometimes early intervention by a moderator will make a big difference, and for sure it alerts us about the seller and puts everyone in a "watching you" mode with the seller.

I believe that while the puretime folks advertise watchstation on the various forums and in their email newsletters, It is really designed as a wholesale supplier. As was said above, most of it's customers are probably Chinese resellers who buy multiple watches. If your primary market is in China, it would make sense to price your goods in Chinese currency. I know that it is a PITA to do currency conversions, but with all the internet and phone app converters, it's pretty simple.

Probably the best bet for a clasp would be a gen. Not cheap but correct. Check on the Vintage Rolex Forum marketplace for one. I believe the only 585 end links are genuine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We're me, I would opt for the V7 Diver. Nice rugged, reliable watch. Dings and scratches just add character to a "tool watch". The 1500's are more of a dress watch and don't look so great with dings and dents. I would avoid the ROO's as a first AP, mainly because of the a7750 movement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with Mike. We can't continue this forum without the help of the members here who derive the benefits. To everyone who is not a VIP , think back over the time that you have been here, how much valuable information have you gained? How much have you saved by not getting scammed, mainly because you were able to buy watches safely from trusted dealers or members. I doubt that there are very many who can truthfully say that they haven't gotten far more than 50 bucks worth of information, advice and help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

David, Go to the trusted dealer section here. Check on their websites, or email them. If it's available they will know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I never, ever answer these types of emails. Don't open them. This is a typical spearphishing technique. Opening the email will install malicious software on your computer!! DANGER!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I just tried to read the regulations, and honestly it would take a lawyer to interpret them. It seems and I emphasize "seems" that watches with Lithium metal batteries installed are OK for all types of shipments. Problem is, the regulations are so ambiguous and complicated, they are certain to be misinterpreted by overzealous and or ignorant employees of shipping companies. I would expect that watch manufacturers are going to have to be very specific as to whether a watch is automatic with no battery inside or a Quartz with battery. Remember, we have to deal with the "least common denominator" effect and make it simple so that the watch doesn't get caught and held up like the dive watch mentioned above. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Tudor "Big Block" Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Here is a well used 1911 that I built over 25 years ago. Got a few more around, just no photos! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk