altesporsche

Done ? Works like a charm, the clutch wheel was out of place and flopping about.. managed to get some really fine tweezers in there and my steady hand aligned it and boom like a **** in a school teacher ? Cheers !

What dial is that ? It looks really good !

Its not my first rodeo removing the dial should give me access to the keyless and winding gears.

ahh lol lovely., i guess i have a bit of disassembly to do this afternoon lol I have also heard the bit where it takes quite a bit of force to get them in sometimes, I tried that last evening, but i dont want to force it too much as im not so great with fine adjustments of force, i work with Large equipment that requires a lot of force... I tend to break a lot of things when assembling them in the home lol I find that i tell myself not to pull too hard when pulling a stem into adjustment position haha

Setting position. I never remove in winding position. Ive heard these are a pain in the ass but this is the first ive had issues with.

Hey fellas, just assembling my 6263 DW based build and I'm using a manual converted 7750 for the time being, but I cannot for the life of me get this damn stem back in the movement !! Arrr !! Anyone have any tricks for this ? Cheers ! C

Thanks for the info !! You are in Canada ? Happen to have any extra kicking around ? I'm needing 2 sets of bars lol was actually online last night looking lol

The preliminary build of mine looks more the part than the one for $130k ?

Work in progress

My 5517 slapped together ? 702 crown on the way, I just got too excited to get it together. Also working on another custom dial with someone as I'm not quite pleased with this one.

I just hate flying through Charles du Gaulle ? Such an annoying airport lol

Couldn't agree with you more ? I bet if I really wanted to, along with several others here, could build a 5517 that would be indistinguishable from a gen.. it would cost a lot and a lot of time, but I can put money on it being very hard to tell even with someone who really knows vintage Rollie's ?

It would still be next to impossible to tell as the original cases were not milled from forged ingots. So the grain structure will not have a uniform pattern anyways. The original bars bars were slightly over and press fit in, punched, then polished flat with the case. As many of of have said, everything about this watch stinks. The cornet on the dial is wrong and there was only one dial on these subs, the same dial as the 5513 pre comex feet first. The minute hand is too long, the seconds hand is too long ( so not original) I can see these things from a quick look. The pictures don't show the 660ft where the 6 should be open. The insert is a Replacement for sure with that lume dot and I'm somewhat curious about the hour hand as well, but I'll have to look deeper. This is not a $130k watch and anyone who buys this as an original milsub at any price is a fool and foolish investments like this will have them parting with the majority of their funds on bad investments soon enough. Spending this his kind of money on a vintage Rolex, you really need to know what you are looking at. Yea the milsubs are collectable because they are rare and have a bit of history, but they are base subs and nothing really special in my eyes. To be honest the couple thousand dollar franken I'm building right now is the most I would spend on one lol

Friggen love Key West !!! Nice bronzo !! My hulk has gotten some wrist time for the past three days.. a shot today when I was on a redbull run and now sitting here in the Hospital playing the waiting game while doctors try to figure out how to pull their head out of their rectum ?

Sorry fellas, not been around in a while.. been back at work offshore, then had to rush home last week as my fiancée went into labour 5 days early.. been a hell of a ride the past few weeks lol @Jaketime , to answer your question, I used the new CHS noob case and although the winding stem sits very very slightly off, the 3186 fits well. You just need to make up the spacer to centralize the movement in the case. I modified a crystal gasket from a 44mm Panerai to fill the gap and it worked out perfect. There is obviously some trimming etc. To be done, but it works. I will be changing this to a metal spacer when I can get someone to machine one for me as I don't have the precision lathe to do the work on my own. You cannot not go wrong with Misiekped ! He does amazing work ! And if you are not used to manipulating and fabricating things to work in watches, you are best to have someone who's in the know, to assemble it for you as it will save you a lot of headaches. Cheers ! And good luck with the watch ! You will not regret it! I've had mine side by side with the gen and it's pretty much perfect !

Ohh I'm wondering the same thing.. I'm building a 5517 now and I don't like the hands I have.

incedent ?

hmm the 28XX series movements have this problem from time to time. I had it happen to a Swiss 2824 in one of my watches. its usually because of dirt or excessive lubrication on the reversing gears. It should still wind the mainspring but the spinning from the rotor isn't actually unwinding the mainspring. Well from my experience it hasn't.

Ohh I have to check out this Phong insert. I have a full case set and dial coming from Helenarou now and two dials hopefully being made by MQ, a proper one for my COMEX build and a 5517 dial for this build. Still having trouble with the hands for the 1520 and then being the correct length.. that will drive me insane and the only thing that's holding a good build of the 5517 back.

that's the post I was looking for ! thanks ! I just sent him a message to see if he is still interested in selling or trade for a franken. fingers crossed as its a beautiful set !

Yea I was thinking of the omegas, but then I have to broach them for the 1520 etc.. but they would be more accurate and I doubt ill find a set of gens lol the last set I seen was 18K I recall that thread as well and it had the insert with the big serifs and looked amazing ! lol I need to buy this stuff when I see it as I know ill use it someday for a build. I think there was a gen service 5513 dial that had the T applied to it afterwards for sale a while back.

Hey Fellas, I have a 5517 case on the way and it will accept a gen 1520 movement and I have a movement sitting around for a COMEX build that seems to be forever ongoing lol Does anyone have a good source for a 5517 dial with feet for a 1520 movement ? Im looking for something high quality. he the hunt for a set of hands that fit a 1520 lol I think I could be taking on a harder build than the 5514. . Cheers C.

Just have a look of the shape of the Balance shock system on the V2 vs. the V1 and the Yuki. The V2 on the JF and the Yuki look exactly the same in that area, where as the noob SA looks to be a different and overall a different movement. The finishing of the bridges seem to be the same on the V2 and the yuki. just my 2 cents worth Hmm I may order one to compare when I get home in a few weeks. But this could be the reason that its hard as hell to get your hands on yukis for a while.

316 will depending on the conditions corrode. You will see discoloration in saltwater no matter what if its submerged a lot and not rinsed off in fresh water. the pitting that you see in older cases is a combo of salt water exposure and acids and oils of the skin over time building up on the watch in and areas where it just sits and reactions take place. this for example on the old subs and stuff would be outside of the oring on the case and under the case back. I would get into the metallurgy of it all but, im at work and not supposed to be on forums lol seriously though ive seen 316 corrode quite badly in as little as one year and less when introduced to any kind of electrical current and saltwater exposure. ill see if I can find some photos of a court case I was involved in where 316 stainless piping and valves looked like nickel plated brass after a lot of exposure to maritime conditions.. black and pitted badly. You can also see an example of how corrosive body oils are in vintage guitars on nickel bridges and parts. I used to play with a fella who used pure nickel strings and after a gig they were absolutely toast from corrosion from the acids in his skin oils. His 5 year old strat looked worst than my 58' strat lol all of his paint was rotted away from his sweat, all hardware was completely toast, but it looks quite cool for a relic guitar after only 5 years of use. so my point being is that you cannot just think about the saltwater that these watches are in contact with. you also need to consider the PH of the human wearing it.

Ill give it a shot when I get home in three weeks, I figured as much on the winding bridge mike from when I took a good look at it. Thanks Matt for the heads up, im always anal about having the setting lever to the full out position whenever I work on anything inside. learned my lesson on that too many times when I was just messing around with movements not knowing what I was actually doing lol well I still don't fully know but its mechanical and im good at mechanical things Cheers fellas !! thanks for the pointers.