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I wear only my wedding band, wore my graduation band but at the time I got it in gold and no longer wear any gold. Wish I could get a pic will work on that tonight, but my wedding band is shaped like a bolt(8 sides) and has a diamond that I took out of my grandmothers cross on each side. I had it custom made because while we were shopping for wedding rings I could not find anything I liked. It measures about an inch side to side, the ring itself is a bit under 1/8" thick and it is about 1/4" wide, talk about heavy. On a side note, while shopping for wedding bands I looked into some nice titanium and tungsten rings they were realitively cheap compared to what I spent getting mine made. The deciding factor against the Ti and Tungsten rings were how hard they are to cut off in an emergency. My jewler told me about this so I followed up with a relative who is an ER doc and he confirmed that Ti and Tungsten rings are almost impossible to cut off sometimes. While most times I would figure what are the chances, however one of my uncles almost lost a finger when he jumped out of his boat and his wedding band cought on the boat. They had to cut his ring off of him.

I have also bought straps from Stan in the past. All I can say is Wowwwww. I have never seen service on the net as outstanding as his. Both sales, within about an hour or two of making payment he sent me an e-mail with pictures of the acctual straps, the shipping envelope and the shipping label showing that he was shipping it out. They always arived within a few(3 at most) days and were exactly as described.

I have an A7750 powered Chrono and a 2824-2 powered SOSF. I opened both of them up and noticed the rotor on the A7750 spins freely, however the 2824-2 does not. I made the comparison because I know with different movements while wearing the 7750 I can acctually feel the watch move from the rotor spinng and I did not feel that while wearing the SOSF. Don't get me wrong the rotor in the SOSF does move but not nearly as freely as the 7750 does. For example if you lightly try to rotate (about 1/8") the rotor in the 2824 it will acctually spring back to where it was if you let off. However if you push it it will turn and when shaking my wrist if I put my ear to it I can hear the rotor turning it just seems alot tighter than the 7750 is. So far the SOSF has not stopped running so I know it must be working just wondering if it is normal or not.

Another thing I was wondering about is the CG in Josh's pics it looks like it does not conform to the shape of the case all that well(look at the ends you can see the gap). I know one of the mainstay problems with the PAM reps is the CG's if you were to file down the rep CG to make it fit tight to the case would this make it more true to gen or is the gen CG that much different than the rep? Next thing is the cannon pin, not sure if it applies to this model but it seems that the cannon pin sits higher than the hands, to get closer to gen would that need to be filed and polished to sit flush with the top of the hand stack. This is the one PAM model I have been wanting and am willing to live with a few flaws provided the main noticable things can be fixed. I could see that gap on the CG from a distance and the not flush cannon pin at a glance, however unless comparing a gen to rep side by side only a die hard Panerai fan would notice a slight difference in font thickness and even a minor difference in dial color for that matter. Can't wait to see lani's pics and a review based on comparing his rep with the photos he has of the gen.

Not really sure what on earth you need the 100 lumen output for??? As for a working light Surefire ranks among the top. I use the G2, 5 of them acctually, which has a polymer body rather than an alumn one. It puts out 65 lumens and believe me if you are looking for light to work with 65 is more than enough, if you are using it for tactical reasons 65 lumens is more than enough to temporarily blind someone if you hit them in the face with it. Not only will it temporarily blind them it will also leave a residual effect of seeing black dots and halos for a few min afterwards. I also like the G2 because it is polymer so for hard use it won't get dents or scratches either.

I have not had experience with the SV's but I will say for home audio I would take a 10 over a 12 almost any day of the week. 12's tend to carry the note too much which makes multiple fast hits, like constant gunfire or multiple explosions, sound muddy. As for wanting to go down to 15hz, unless you are using this in a dedicated movie room its a waste. 15hz is more felt than heard so without a properly sound deadened room you will probably hear more things rattling(windows, doors, things on shelves, ect.) than the acctual bass note anyways.

I have been looking at all of the B&R Reps as well as looking at as many gens as I can find pictures of. I noticed one thing that seems to stand out to me the most. B&R website calls the factory "PVD" coating Black Carbon Powdercoat. I also noticed that in every gen pic I see the finish is a nice and uniform flat balck, much like the finishes you see on firearms. The rep PVD finish does not look nearly as uniform, or nearly as deep. I have also looked at pics of ajoesmith's PVD and from what I can tell while it looks closer to gen then the rep PVD it still does not look the part. Has anyone held a gen to confirm how the gen coating looks? I re-coated a Glock slide with a coating called duracoat. It is applied with an airbrush and leaves a very even flat-matte black coating that is very thin and very durable. I am wondering if this type of coating would not be closer to gen than PVD???

It will be really hard to tell from pics with different lighting and such but seems to me the main problem with all the 252 reps is the blue color being off. Comparing Josh's to pics of gens it seems that his is too light of a blue. I have been after this one for for a long time but can never find a decent rep of it. I am not sure if it is just the lighting in the rep photos but it looks as if the running seconds dial is flush with the rest of the dial. If you look at the gen the seconds dial is a bit recessed.

Incredible looking watch. I did have one question. Your Franken has a gen dial, but when I compare it to this gen dial I do see a difference Most noteably the 8. On the gen pictured above it shows the 8 is full, however on your gen dial the 8 is cut into by the 9 o'clock sub dial.

Suunto T4 is perfect for the gym. I wear mine to the gym and when I go running every day. Its comftorble to wear, weighs next to nothing, and has heart rate monitoring, calorie consumption and stop watch among other things. If you plan to do cardio it is a great watch, for example I wear it daily on my two mile run, I set up a heart rate zone area that I want to stay in. If I go above or below the set rates it will alert me I can look at the watch quickly thanks to the large display and adjust my speed accordingly, same works at the gym on the bikes and treadmills. I have banged it into machines a bunch and never really had a problem with getting any scratches on the face of it as well.

I think they should be worn as well. From a realiastic standpoint watches are not a great investment. I realize that some will double in value within a short period of time but in the end a watch is a luxury item and only worth what the market is willing to pay. A watch that is worth $100k today may be only worth $4-5K in a few years. There is no guarantee that its value will stay up no matter how rare it is, like I said it is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Lastly I will bet with utmost certainty that anyone who wears or even owns a watch that is worth anything has it insured. Some people will insure a $1500 watch and jewlery of the same value so you can be certian that if you see someone wearing a $100k watch it is insured. Then getting away from the theft/loss issue if you can afford to spend $20K+ on a watch of all things if something were to happen and you were to loose that $20K would you really cry about it or be hurt financially??

I am looking for a part to one of my SS watch bands. It is for the Tag Link Chrono. The piece is the tube that holds the flip lock in place. It is a tube that goes through and has a screw on each side holding the flip lock to the bracelet. Somehow I managed to loose one of the screws. I googled, checked every watch material place I know of. If anyone can point me in the right direction to find this I would greatly appreciate it.

I had a question and search as I may I could not find an answer. How does this double AR compare to the double AR that comes on some of our reps such as the Ingy, SOSF, BCE, UPO ect. I would have to imagine it is better but has anyone done a comparison to see if it is worth the $55 to have the factory double AR removed and the new coating applied?

I like it, sucks about the titanium pushers and crown being left out. Caseback....as stated leave it on and who can see it. I could not really tell from PT's pics but does his have the double seconds hands for the chrono?? Looks like only one to me.

Well King's version looks exactly like Josh's and for almost $200 less.

It is hard to tell from the pic how deep the scratches really are. I would start off with a file and try to get as much of the scratch out as possible. Then switch over to some 250 grit sandpaper wrapped around a popsicle stick. Between the file and the 250 you should be able to get most of it out. Once the scratch/gouge is gone the 250 will leave its own scratches so you will need to progress up the sandpaper food chain to finer grits until you match the brushed texture of the rest of the watch. I would avoid using a dremmel if at all possible. Power tools have a tendancy to grab edges and pull themselves across surfaces you do not want them to hit. Especially being right there on the CG I can see the dremmel pulling itself into the area where the crown goes and causing more headaches than it is worth. It might take a bit longer by hand but in the end you will have a better finish and less chances of screwing something else up.

Any pics of BLKM's??

Is the second one with the "new" second hand a gen or rep??

Wonder how hard it would be to add the tic mark next to the 10 on the 12o'clock subdial??

Not sure if this is the one you were after but here you go. Blue dial w/ numbers, silver white subdials, and double AR. Looks exactly the same as Lanikai's only blue main dial instead of white. http://www.pc-80108.com/bl10086-chronomat-...800-p-2174.html If I am not mistaken only the stick dials were missing the tick mark next to the 10. If you compare the subdials on the stick dials vs. the ones with the numbers the printing on the sub dials is different. Stick dials have 10, 20, and 30 on them in bigger print, where the number dials have 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, and 30 on them in smaller print.

It looks to be of the older version of the ultimate. Notice the missing min. marker next to the 10 on the 12:00 subdial.

It prompts for a username and password, anyone know the secret knock??

Don't even waste your time trying. The ONLY reason tritium is able to illuminate watches is the way it is encapsulated. The glass or saphire tube it is put in has its insides coated with phospher. The tritium itself does not glow. More or less the reaction between the tritium AND phosphor is what makes the glow. In essence the tritium is the "invisible flashlight" that keeps the tubes glowing. Unless you can put the tritium on the dial, then coat it with phosphor, you are not going to get anything. Thats how they make different color tritium vials by using different color phosphor.

If I am not mistaken tritum is almost impossible to come by in a form that would allow you to lume a watch in the same way you do with Super LumiNova. It is also radioactive so while it would not dose you enough to kill you long term exposure for someone who handled it all the time luming watches could suffer some side effects. Now days the encapsulate the tritium into glass vials which makes for easier packaging and application as well as cut down on exposure. If you want a watch that has tritium illumination look into Luminox, KHS, Nite, Traser, and Uzi watches. The tritium does not glow as bright as Super Luminova, however the tritium will glow all night long without the need to be charged by an external light source. Not that it means anything one way or the other for civilian use, but while the tritium is great for seeing the time at night it is also a great way to see other people if they are wearing them. You will notice alot of military have a habbit of wearing their watch with the dial on the palm side of the wrist. This is done for multiple reasons such as daytime use the crystal could beam a signal much like a mirror and give your position up from a distance, to protect the watch as the outside of your arm is much more likely to contact something than the inside would be, when holding a rifle in the shouldered position it puts your watch in your line of sight, and agin with tritium having it facing the inside would be less likely to be seen by others.

Is this the same YM being put out by the noob factory?? Also any chance you could get a shot from the side looking at the crown??