HaydenM

Yeah, seems way too good to be true. A gold le grande classique for $72, I think not.

The Commando, though like the 1016 in appearance uses a 34mm case so differs in that way. I'd love to see a build of one of these though they are very small watches by today's standards (though as is the 1016 I'm wearing as typing this at 36) best of luck if you get the build off of the ground, though I agree with JMB that the hardest part will be sourcing a dial.

From a cursory search it appears that there is no such thing as a Swiss ETA 3186, my advice is get an asian 2836-2. It's a reliable movement that should be brand new and in a relatively decent condition. Avoid "swiss" movements straight from he dealer as they're not new and often cobbled together between ETA and Asian ETA parts while being notorious for having problems. Get the Asian 2836-2, I've one ticking on my wrist as I write this and in the rare case that it was to die then it's an easy swap for a swiss one.

Don't be worried about what movement looks more realistic, you sill never see it unless you're doing work on the watch. Just don't get a swiss movement and get whichever is the most reliable relative to your budget.

I haven't personally dealt with them but they're a TD with a good reputation. Just make sure you get the correct site and you'll be fine.

I have a cartel 1675 which I believe is the same caseback as the 5513/12 and I just installed a Raffles caseback onto it.

Welcome to the forum mate, there are some wonderful tudor sub builds around. My advice would be to decide on a model and look into it. If you're starting from a movement you will need the case (perhaps look in the parts section of the forum for some great deals if something comes up), a dial (there are many different sellers on these, for a tudor sub the "cheap" option is usually yuki), hands, crystal and crown (there could be something else). You'll find a lot of build logs on this and the other forums. Good luck, welcome to the madness of rep watch building.

Hi all, I'm bit by bit putting aside parts to build a tudor snowflake and have been told in the past to base it off of a 5513 case and was just wondering if the tudor snowflake (9411) uses the same no click bi-directional bezel? Thanks all, HaydenM

As do I, it wears a bit more understated which I love. It's wearing quite a bit more comfortable with the new caseback. Only things left in the near future for this watch is to fix the hands (the GMT hand is off by about half an hour) and then figure out how to change the crystal.

UPDATE: Got the delivery today and changed out the caseback from the normal bubble caseback to this Also for any interested while I was at it decided to change from pepsi to black bezel insert: From: To:

Well I've put in my order and I'll get back to you all with the current quality when it arrives.

Thanks for that, wasn't certain which case back. Places the order with them

Deal with it, your first post is to complain. Why would you expect people to help you out when you've given nothing to the community? You haven't even asked any questions to the community but now spam many boards wanting them to fix the predicament you've gotten yourself into.

Hi All, Anybody know a good source for a gen-like caseback for a cartel 1675 unlike the bubble like back that comes with it? Thanks in advance, HaydenM

What's misleading is that he doesn't state once that the strap is non OEM and the article is written to make the reader think that the product is something that it isn't. It would not have reached the price it is at currently if people didn't think that it was the OEM strap. I can purchase a non OEM nato and the buckle from ofrei for cheaper than the current price.

Glad to know I'm not the only one to think it. I first thought it was a complete scam as the metal keepers were not squared like the OEM but after reading it knew what they were saying. Given that I can buy the buckle from Ofrei for $42 I think somebody is going to end up paying too much.

I can't be the only one made a bit angry at posts like this, posts that don't technically lie but deliberately represent the product as something else so that people will make the assumption that the whole thing is OEM and worth a couple of hundred dollars when they're selling something worth only about fifty. It's already surpassed the value and with three days left will only continue to increase in cost. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331666869402?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Definitely not a good move on his part, stuff like that hurts the whole community. Hope it all ends for the best.

You won't find a worldtimer fake. The movement simply doesn't exist. Same reason you don't find minute repeater reps.

I really do hate these muppets who ruin it for the rest of us.

As a member of the new guard I can say that part of it is a generational thing but I'd have to side with Gasebah on the internet keyboard courage being more to do with it. There will always be immature young bucks with an entitlement complex but the internet gives them the ability to let it out with few ramifications.

I'm certainly prepared to be wrong but I just want to know why this is the only example that I can find with an engraving of a serial number opposite the anti-counterfeit symbol (which I still don't think looks quite right in the images provided) So currently my main query is with the case