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rolojack

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Everything posted by rolojack

  1. rolojack
    For both dial and hands it's a mix of brown china ink and waterbased felts. Then, revarnish the whole plate to fix the color and create the texture.
  2. rolojack
    Dremel....
  3. rolojack
    Wow, I'm really flattered to read such kind words !!! Thank you very much, that pushes me to make better next time !!!
  4. rolojack
    That's correct. However, finding a top quality dome shaped T22 as per original early Explorer specs is near impossible. T21 is the most cost efficient way to achieve that look....
  5. rolojack
    Here are some pics of my own 1016 with aged and retextured dial and hands.... Here, you can see the endlinks fit after modification. They started as WSO 580. My 1016 is fitted with a top hat T22 as that is the look I prefer.
  6. rolojack
    Nice !!!! That is really what we all need now !!!! Great job.
  7. rolojack
    There is a flat nylon gasket, hence the mild gap. Only way to make it waterproof, as digging a groove to host a rubber gasket is too hazardous due to the minimal amount of metal left between the lip and the tube hole. When you hold the watch, you really don't notice that.... Pictures are really unforgiving !
  8. rolojack
    Some pics of my own 1016 with case back removed.... As for the endlinks fit, you can see my older post about this watch.
  9. rolojack
    Here is my latest built for a fellow member: see the rear of the mid case !!!! I finally was able to get the proper tool to perfectly shape the lip where the back case meets the mid case !!!! First time ever I believe.... Specs : JMB base mid case and bezel, totally redone. Reshaped lugs on top to achieve the proper "drop", 30% metal removed on the sides, phony serial and ref removed, trimmed rehaut. RT caseback, Yuki dial, TC hands, Verlux T21, Genuine 600 crown and tube, rep sringbars with trimmed and polished tips to get a perfect fit. Enjoy !!!!!
  10. rolojack
    Get a V75 powered Cartel rep, and change the dial ! Cheapest way I know.
  11. rolojack
    Everywhere ! Top of the lugs, both sides (more than you think !) and of course most of the work is on the bottom. Be super careful, as the space left between the tube hole and the bottom will be very slim ! Also, you will have JUST enough tread left to screw in tight the caseback. This means if you try to go too fast you'll ruin it. Make sure to secure your case in such a way the bottom will end up perfectly flat too. Otherwise, the back case will not meet the mid case everywhere and your watch won't even be dustproof....
  12. rolojack
    True, and also you can mod a SK DJ cyclop by removing the lens. Don't take the Clark as the inner dome is alteed bu the lens.... The SK inner dome is neat. Regarding the endlinks, WSO is a good base to work. They can fit almost all cases after modding. You have to erase the silly ugly 580, but the metal is so thick you can shape it to perfection.
  13. rolojack
    Indeed. I use Epoxy Steel (not jeweler's epoxy). It is grey in color, and hardens like metal. It is used to repair car engines ! Once hardened, you can shape it to tune up some details. Perfect for a loose bezel or crystal !!! But once dry if applied on a well prepared surface : forget about removing it !!! Manufacturer is Cord Chemicals. made in the Philippines. Maybe can you find it on the net.
  14. rolojack
    That Bond sub is really amazing !!!!!! Very hard to get right : most of them always feel fake. But yours strikes really !!!!! Superb.
  15. rolojack
    It's a Clarks..... Are you sure you can't make it fit? It's the best for that price range.
  16. rolojack
    WSO 580 modified.
  17. rolojack
    Nope, I had a 2824 in stock so I used it. Honestly, that slow beat thing.... I'm anal for details most won't care much about, when in my opinion they are essential. Such as the case shape !!!! But the beat rate...
  18. rolojack
    Must be a 2824...
  19. rolojack
    Thank you. Yes, this dial was worth the trouble ! Only flaw is the "SWISS" position, but overall quality is such you can forget about it.
  20. rolojack
    Finally done ! It took me near 3 years to finalize this watch....
  21. rolojack
    After careful reviewing, I agree with DTman : best high budjet should be as gen as possible, and the 666 is the only one. And, yes, as Whoopy said, the work done on the silix case by Kime's is worth winning the low budget category !!!!
  22. rolojack
    The dial and caseback are from the Yuki kit. Only the midcase is custom ! Yuki's midcase is trash : very thick and totally unlike the gen. Mine is certaily not a Phong, but it does the job allright.
  23. rolojack
    To understand, you have to know the technology traveled this way : machines sold by the swiss industry to the russians right after the war, then given by the soviets to China in the 70's, back when there were still in love. The movement evolved in Russia. So, the ST19 is the final evolution of the evolution...
  24. rolojack
    Don't forget it always looks better when you see it live. Pictures are unforgiving !!!! The 1019 is such a b**** to rep. It's very very hard to have a decent one below 1K. So at 300+.....
  25. rolojack
    I'll PM you when I have them.
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