mymanmatt

Yes, time set position

Not sure what you are looking for. I think google specific dial info. You will get info on one dial at a time.

Yes Arthur, the difference is about $110

I have entertained the idea of building datejust with an sa3135 movement. I have had a ym with one in it for around 5 years. Honestly, It's been trouble free. I ordered several sa 3135 movements to use in both the old style dj and the new style. It will keep the price of the build about the same as a swiss. I have read about some complaints with the movement. I personally have had good luck with them. Do you think the latest version is better than those made 4 or 5 years ago. I do. But your opinion is welcome. Here is one next to a gen.

Why would anyone try to drill lug holes? Just get our resident expert to do it. His turn around time is awesome. I think Justin is from the old school. That's a school where they taught service as the most important part of sale. Be sure you tell him what you're building. There are different size lug holes.

Ok automatico, tell us what you really think. LOL I'm just kidding. My friend bought a new 1803 in 1969. Price $999.00 On sale $895. LOL That was a lot for a watch.

Ok, you need to calm down. The dial you saw for 1015E is a day-date 2 dial, not a 118239 dial. I can source about any dial you want, except glacier blue. Once again, that bracelet you have a link to is an 18239 bracelet, not a 118239. I have high quality cases and bracelets. I don't think you will need to do anything to them.

One other thing. As long as the mainspring assy and balance assy are out, If you happen to go just a little to far, you won't hurt anything. It will just be open space below the mainspring tub and the bal assy. You do want to secure the dial on the movement. You don't want it moving up and down. There is a grove cut under the rehaut that the dial sit's in, that will usually hold it in place. A couple of dial dots won't hurt though. Be sure you have a snug fitting movement ring, that's always a must.

All great pics. It's hard not to vote for the watch instead of the pic.

I think you should build this yourself. It will take some time but I'm sure you can do it. You're right, that glacier blue dial is nearly impossible to source. I also have matching day and date wheel overlays. Clark has a nice set of tudor hands. However be careful that you hour and minute post are high enough so the hands won't damage the dial. You can buy a taller cannon pinion. If you do, I have a long post sweep second so you don't need to change the center wheel. Good luck

The tip for my guy was the way phong finish's the case on the inside of the lug at the case in the corner. Rolex is a very smooth 1/2 round, phong's is slightly squared, and I mean slightly. A good comparison is a gen gold jubilee link compared to aftermarket. The gen has a rounded corner where the pin or screw goes through. The aftermarket does not.

The color of the dial in the picture is oyster. It's not silver, not champagne, and not white, its oyster. But that is only used on a gold watch. On a white gold they use rhodium or silver. Also the one in your picture is an 18238 old style. The 18239 is old style too, 118239 is new style. I carry those case and bracelets as well as the old style. Which ever one you build, DO NOT CUT THE FEET ON THE DIAL, you don't need to. Simply notch the movement ring at 4:30 and 10:30

Yes. They have several stores. The buyer in one store bought it thinking it was gen. It had a fresh 3135 gen movement and a for sure gen buckle. Gen dial, hands and crystal. Not 100% sure on the insert. After they buy watches they go to a central login department and that's when it was spotted But only after an extreme amount of checking.

You cant get any closer to the mainplate. Just BARLEY enough room. I use my dremel and just slot it instead of drilling a hole. Mark it, remove the bal assy, and the main spring, cover the movement and grind away with my little cutter wheel. So far, haven't messed up anything. LOL

The 180xx dial has feet at 4;30 and 10;30 You don't need to clip feet on a pres for any eta. You notch the movement ring. The datejust has feet at 2;30 or 2;45 I can really tell for sure, and 7;30. You can notch the baseplate at 7;30, but not 2;30. The problem at 2;30 is the yoke corrector. It will hit the foot of the dial and not allow you to set the time or date. The other dials that have feet in the 5;30 and 11;30 I think can be made to fit the eta baseplate. Never done it, but I think there is enough room.

So, one of my AD's bought what he thought was a gen 16610. Turns out it was a phong case complete. Anyone have an opinion on what the case is worth. It's complete with case, caseback, bezel, insert, case tube, crown, and crystal.

I have no idea on the hands. I have the dwo.

If you're looking for gen hands for an eta 2671, the gen 2035 hands will fit. The 2135 will not

I believe the feet position o the 1016 is different from the dj and pres. I believe there is enough room to notch the base plate under the balance assy and at the mainspring area. That remains to be seen.

First, it's not gold plated. It is wrapped. That means they put a layer of gold over the case. Depending on the thickness, it could have a lifespan of 20 years. Rolex did that on their 1500 cases in the 70's and 80"s. Gold plating will eventually wear off in the high rub areas. This case is gold wrapped, and if you like it, buy it. You will not be disappointed.

That does it. I'm getting one done for myself. You guys will hate this idea. 118239, diamond lugs, center diamond bracelet, diamond bezel, everything smooth engraved. I'm going to see if he can engrave a gen diamond dial. OMG

I like it!!! A lot!!!!!!!!!!!!

Damn, is he the next Bill Gates?

whoopy has 3 for sale in the parts section