stilty

3035 will not fit in a 3135 case. stem position on the 3035 is similar to an ETA 2836-2. stem position on the 3135 is similar to the ETA 2824-2. The difference between the 3035 and 3135 is 0.45mm, measured from back of dial to center of stem. That case is fake. The only thing they could do to fit the 3035, is mill out the case so the 3035 sits in deeper in order to align the stem. But looking at the pictures of the rehaut, it is still deep and not shallow. The only other way to fit, is to enlarge the rehaut diameter, or reduce the dial diameter so the dial actually sits inside the rehaut, and not behind it. anyone else notice that wonky looking hour hand? the mercedes logo gives the illusion it is turning counter clockwise when you look at it. Look at the center of the Y. Where the to lines meet, is not center with the third line. Also, is it just my tired eyes, or is that a Flat S dial?

3035 in a 16610 case?

I have a few kicking around for a 2892-A2 to fit in 3135 case. I can send you one to try.

While the ligne (diameter) is the same, the stem alignment is different, so the 3035 will not fit in the 16610 case.

The reason you get a longer power reserve with the 2846 is because it is a slow beat. less beats means the mainspring will unwind that much slower. The 2846 is only beating 21600 ticks, while the 2893-2 has to beat 28800 ticks in the same time frame.

I'm half in the bag and did not pay attention too much, but the first thing i looked at was the crown position. Crown will always sit a bit high. Crown position looks to be in a good position on this case. It's genuine, or the fake case makers figured it out.

JMB - I found those ALPS decals we discussed ages ago. I'll post some out to you, as well as some blanks.

If your dead set on a franken with gen case. I'm afraid your only option will be going with an ETA-2000 as a base. You'll have to use a 2035 date disc for an overlay, and use a combo of 2035 and 2135 hands to fit the 2000 pinions. the ETA 2000 shares the same lingne as the rolex 2035/2135. But unless you are building for fun, as suggested by others, get her a quartz.

If it is testing as gold, it is probably solid. But keep in mind that it could be a very low carat link that was plated with 18K.

oh yes, the tropic 38. had a chance to grab one a while back for $100... now they are north of $350 if you can find one. very rare crystal. now i want one for my 1655. maybe i'll see if GS has an equivalent. nice pics btw.

The frog foot crown is throwing me off. Don't snip the feet. try and find a non date 1570 movement and a 162XX case. You will be able to fit the 1570 with the dial in a 162XX case. Also the tropic 22 fits the case no problem. You will just need to find a bezel, or modify a 16200 bezel to fit over the tropic.

no idea what happened to the pictures, but in order to convert to a 2 position stem, you need to modify or swap the set bridge. If you wish to modify the part, you need to smooth out the middle bump. Or if you just want to spend $5-6, you can buy one. You will need a set bridge from an ETA 2801-2 non date movement. And if you are really handy, you can also install the hack lever. good luck!

fake case, or at least fake engravings. Check out the engravings on the serial side. yes, they are crooked, but I've seen that before. But the E' look wrong. Center stroke in the E looks too long for my eyes. Should be shorter in length.

it could be watch oil or grease that may have been applied too heavily, and over time slowly seeped through the tiny hole that the marker is fitted to

Anyone know any of the replica pen factories or dealers? I want to get some pens made for a promotion I specifically want the starwalker style with the floating logo in the acrylic top. But rather then the mont blanc logo, I want to use my own logo. Anyone? Thanks!

Ughhh! Hearing your pain auto! Guess I got really lucky in my build! ps. thanks for the great package I received in the mail!

Mr Trooper is correct. It really has nothing to do with Raw, the wash or anything. It is the red stripe you are paying for. Think of the Selvedge as the "end of the roll" in a sense. there only two ends, and if you make a pair of jeans just using the ends, there is a lot of waste in between. I have a selvedge pocket square in hickory stripe. Think I paid $50 for it... and all for the thin red stripe.

good on you! Pad printing is tricky. I have one, but it is the ceramic cup, so it charges the plate and wipes it at the same time. It is tricky mixing the ink, hardener and thinner. You have to take into account humidity, and other factors to get perfect clean prints. plus, it is a [censored] to clean up and very smelly. The cleaners are more expensive then the ink. I bought all my supplies from a guy in Toronto who restores dials, and is a distributor of inks and supplies. he gave me a lot of advise. I still have not perfected the process. These are the inks that I use: http://www.marabu-inks.com/products/overview/pad-printing-inks/detail-view/products/Tampapur-161.html good luck with the project.

2836-2 is the easiest route to go. You will just need a thin rep overlay. If you want to use a genuine rolex date disc, you will either have to sand it down until it is very thin. Or, use an ETA 2824-2. It is more complicated, as you will need to swap out the cannon pinion, hour wheel, 4th wheel to a taller hand fitting height in order for the hands to clear the dial markers. Easy job for a watch maker. This way the thicker genuine disc will fit between the dial and movement and turn without getting snagged or hung up. I have a holder that will work for either movement in the 16000 case. I also have some genuine 3135 date discs in champagne. (same date progression as eta) They are rare open 6 and 9 font. Will be perfect for the 16000, as the modern fonts are now all closed, and smaller. hope this helps.

I still have this case sitting around... should fit the bill for you if interested. case is made for the 2836-2, so a 3035 should drop in with no problem.

Yeah, sorry, wish I could take on the project for you. I have so much going on right now I barely have time to log in just to see what is going on and reply to PM's. And sorry to those that I may or may not have answered to in a timely manner. btw, the laser eye surgery was a huge success... don't know why I waited so long.

Hi Sly, I did get your PM, sorry, I haven't been around here for a long time.... If you can find one, try an ETA 2000 movement. I found a couple of Omegas on the bay that work fine for the project. You will need to try and find the Rolex movement holder for the case. It fits the ETA, but needs a slight shim to align the stem. As for the date disc, try and find a Rolex disc for the midsize. With the thinner 2000 movement, you can glue the genuine date disc to the ETA disc and it will work. You will need to swap out the hand fitting height in order for the hands to clear the dial. just make sure the date progression matches ETA. I don't know the caliber off the top of my head. maybe 2135? or 2035? I think the 2035 matches the date. as for hands, you can use genuine rolex hands, or aftermarket hands. You will need a set for 2035 and a set for 2135. The hour/minute hand from 2035 will fit the ETA, and the second hand from 2135 will fit... or the other way around, I can't remember. The reason you need a rolex movement holder is the dial is attached to the movement holder. It snaps on. hope this helps.

Wow R, Great gesture! I would love to take it, but I must be fair and decline. A new business venture is taking all my time right now and I don't know when it will let up, so I do not foresee any free time for the hobby. It is only fair to pass it on to someone who will put it to good use rather then ending up sitting in my parts drawer. I really appreciate the gesture! Thank you! I hope all is well brother.