dbane883

nt

It has the correct blue second sweep but not familiar with the Explorers at all.. Most of the engraviings are rubbed off but can read partial serial putting it around '54. Caseback i discovered later is stamped 6298.. looks to be a gen movement.. It was at a watchsmiths shop and he asked me what I thought and how much it's worth. The dial is relatively fresh right around the coronet and indicies, but faded everywhere else leading me to beleive it was artificially aged or someone wiped it in the past with a dirty rag. Movement is not working and needs a complete overhaul. The plating is very thick.. I guess it would be considered "gold-filled"? Its a mystery

Any idea what model this is? Were Explorers ever gold plated/capped. 974xxx serial. Looks funky to me.

Thats a nice dirty-mustard they used for "deep sea"

I think low light focusing is an issue with not only the RX1, but all mirrorless cameras in general.

I had a PP dispute with the seller last year. He used to be based out of Las Vegas. The dial I bought was legit, but its condition was not fully disclosed as the pictures he used in the post was altered. I asked eBay/PP to examine the EXIF data to confirm this. I dont think that's an issue here since its in rough shape. At anyrate, I would not pay more than $1k for it given that its a later service dial.

RX1! That's a serious toy!$!$ If I wasn't wrapped up with other projects ([emoji6]), I might have one too. Have a Fuji X100T on pre-order to replace my aging X100. I'm a fan of the optical viewfinder. If the Sony had a OVF, it'd be the perfect camera for me.

Nice. But maybe it's because of the subject. What camera? Guessing a mirror less. Sony NEX? Fuji X100/s?

If you want a really nice Seiko gmt, get the Grand Seiko. Sappire bevel. Giddyup. Ok so it's 10x the cost. But u can afford it

It's not made of Adamantium. Frankly, people who keep their phones in the back pocket are asking for trouble. Anyhow, AppleCare is a must on a $1000 device (unless you have extended warranty through your credit card .. Eg Amex Plat)

For $900k, I'd expect slightly better fit and finish. Seriously, that is sloppy:

A pre Comex is not a Bart Simpson.

Upon closer inspection, I am 99.9% certain that they are not only completely refurbished (not just polished), but several sections have been laser welded. Look closely at one of the lugs. You can see where the two metals have been melded together.. Not very well in fact: When done right, and only using the same quality steel (e.g. 316), a good polisher will be able to restore so that the damage was imperceptbile. Here's an example of a good before, during and after of a lazer weld:

I know you can afford it. I say buy a gen birth year 5513. It will be something you will never resell. Others will come and go, but this one will be a keeper.

"Yellow" monster. Modified by Bill Yao at MKII about 10 years ago when all he did was work work with Seiko divers.

Nice insert C! Case is ok too [emoji6].

I believe those are the work of Marcello Comezzi

SMP Crono

If you'd like the best of both worlds, then the best choice is the MKI or MKII 16660 Seadweller. "Modern" 3035 movement, sapphire Crystal, solid SELs , but also has the vintage elements of tritium dial/hands and lugholes! I recently sold mine and kinda regretting it. But the 666 is an acceptable compromise.

I believe in having a balance. I know droptop has a few vintages and while a 5513 should be the cornerstone of any serious vintage Rolex collection, complementing a modern with the handful of view vintages he has now makes a lot of sense. Would you have a garage full of vintage '60's muscle cars? Prob not. You'd have a '62 vette, '69 Camaro and maybe a newer model 911 and a suburban. I think the ratio of vintages to modern is ideally around 3:1 when it comes to watches. No worries about waterproofness. I would not let my '67 5513 out into the rain. So there's also the issue of practicality to consider as well.

Congrats! Lime green is the new red! Ok, maybe not, but at least It's Marshawn Lynch approved.

Odd, you don't need to take off the rotor to fix the keyless. I haven't seen the video, but that is an unnecessary step. Anyhow, glad it's in good hands now. It does pay to have the right tools for the job. Invest in a decent set of Bergeon or AF screwdrivers at the absolute minimum before attempting any movement work.

My 114060 says the no-date: However, if you can rummage up another $3k, get the SD4000c.

I have a mixture of both. The leather (Horween) by far is the most comfortable. So 5514 in leather and 5513 with the SS bracelet.