gavidoc

Nice work but to relume an original gilt dial?!?! Yikes. And 1675's originally had silver datewheels.

Personally I'd do a combination of the middle and the right. See below.

Would need to know more about the Daytona. Is it all original Rolex parts that have been put together to make the watch or are their rep parts on it? If original parts, I would keep the Daytona. If it has rep parts, I would say the GMTIIC. If you don't care for it, sell it and make back the grand he is underselling it to you for. Easier to sell a gen instead of a franken, super or normal.

All are great specimens and for those who are current owners, I think the criteria should be greater then just who has the most gen parts. An extra element that will really decide who of our current Franken Gen owners are the true winner should be: 1. You currently own the watch 2. The rarity of the components used to build the watch. IMO, someone who builds a 16610 with all gen parts minus a case and bracelet (while still having a fantastic sub) would loose to someone who builds a 1680 with all gen parts minus a case and bracelet. That same 1680 build would loose to a 1680 build with a gen 93150 which would loose to one with a 9315 which would loose to one with a 7206 etc. That is a true way to judge who has the best franken sub.

Like sardonix only gens. Next one isn't the best pic but gets the point across.

I don't own these anymore and ended up parting them out but they were a lot of fun to build. First is a 9411 blue I did. Used an MBW case but everything else was gen including the movement. MBW case Gen Bezel Gen insert Gen retaining ring Gen crystal Gen dial Gen hands Gen movement Gen bracelet Gen endlinks Gen crown Gen tube The 2nd was also using an MBW case. The movement was a 2783 instead of a Tudor 2776. IT is the one on the left with the 79090 (which was gen). I eventually replaced the crappy rep bracelet with a real one. MBW case ETA 2783 movement Gen bezel Gen insert Gen retaining ring Gen crystal Gen dial Gen hands Gen crown Gen tube Gen bracelet Gen endlinks

All gen. My original tritium hands and dial are tucked away.Got a 2nd matte dial that had the tritium washed off and had it relumed. Got some service hands, gen LV insert, 93250 bracelet and there you have it, a 16800LV.

Unless you relume one with pbdad. Got a spare and did that for my 16800. Nice work.

Yeah. Think he's smoking the Heisenberg Blue. I sold a 79090 with box, papers and bracelet a few months ago for $2600 on eBay. No takers on the forums at $2400. He has a 79090 with aftermarket dial and hands. Someone would pay more to return it to a 79090 then it would cost to just buy a complete 79090 at that price. On side note, every time someone mentions a value for his particular watch is assisting him in skirting needing to be a paying member.

All acrylic subs with crownguards use the same insert so you don't need to hold out for just a 76100. The following references use them (T for Tudor, R for Rolex) T7828, T7016, T7021, T9401, T9411, T76100, T79090, R5512, R5513, R1680, R1665

Inserts are not interchangeable. Easiest way to see: Inserts with a plastic pearl that are for an acrylic 660ft/200m will not interchange with a metal cup pearl insert for a sapphire 1000ft/300m sub. .

Gotcha. What I can tell you is that ETA did make a silver date disc though it is non-brushed. I purchased a bunch of date disc's for various ETA calibres a few months ago as they had listed in the offering a 2784 date disc. When I got it, I was quite surprised to see that it was silver and not white. Not brushed like I"ve seen but very similar to the painted silver as found in my 16800 Sub. Fonts are very similar though slightly different.

never knew that the 7021 could be had with a silver datewheel. I've only seen the 2783, 2784 and the 2824.

Overall your build looks very good. Tudor Sub frankens are always difficult to price and sell due to the fact that as Panerai said, super frankens sell for little under what a genuine article sells for. And despite your beliefs, you can easily find black 9411's without bracelets for the $2200-$2500 range if not a bit less. Blue 9411's typically sit in the $2500-$3000 range. As for a value, call me a pessimist, but I see this as an attempt to circumvent the rules of the forum in regards to being a paying member to be able to post a sales thread on RWG. Therefore I will not give you a value above what you have in it for parts which is typically what you can get for a Tudor Snowflake Franken build.

If I was putting it on a rep or a franken I would agree with you. I had no issues purchasing one for my genuine 16800 though.

The reason those are still there is due to the outrageous price being asked. They show up and when priced correctly sell quickly. Due to the nature of the Rolex Blackmarket some think price gouging for some items is the norm as opposed to the exception. Typically you even see LV inserts for 450-500 which is the price from Rolex

You shouldn't pay more then standard rate for these. Even on the gen forums, if you are paying more then $150 you are paying too much.

Yep. Same scenario though Chevy will still work on the Chevelle. And no problem.

The 2 serial numbers are the case and the movement. If one is so inclined they can have these checked to ensure that the 2 match up as they are married together when the watch is assembled (or so I have been told). They are what make a rolex a genuine article whether it has aftermarket parts or not. Without these two matching up, you will not be able to have it returned to 100% authentic by Rolex. Let's say you buy a 16710 but the movement was replaced with one from 16570 (explorer II) and take it to an RSC. The RSC will either refuse to work on it or return it to a 16570 with a replacement case.

For personal consumption nothing. However, if you ever have to sell, two serial numbers is the difference. Missing one of those and you can forget a reasonable resale value. A forged or replicated serial IMO is going WAAAAYYYYY too far even if there are no plans to sell. At that point, I ask why bother? People don't see the serial just as they don't see a movement. How does that have any value added benefit?

As others have said, Gen is gen. Value is all in the quality and the overall brand. If you look at selling, you have a larger pool of people to sell to with gen. Reps? I learned the hard way it's difficult to sell a "super" franken. Buillt a 9411 and the only non-original thing on it was the mid and back case. I couldn't sell it for what I had in the gen parts to people here as it was a "rep." Parted the watch out, sold the gen parts individually and the rep case and actually sold everything for more then I was asking for on the completed watch. Even with super frankens your pool of buyers is limited. I'd never spend $1000 let alone $500 on a rep but that's just me. Having owned and currently own real Rolex and Tudors, it's not worth it IMO.

So what is it? 30% of list or 30% off of list

I would be interested in one of these if they are 30% of the price listed. http://ndtradingcorp.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=386

No offense intended but the best thing to do is throw that piece of junk from WSO away and find a different source. A monkey with no fingers would do a better job fabricating a bezel then a WSO one. Hi folks. So I'm pressing a WSO 114270 bezel over a Clark 25-295 crystal and was wondering if anyone new how much bigger you want the outside diameter of the crystal to be than the inside diameter of the bezel? Can anybody help me out here?

Another option is rounded jeweler a pliers. I have a few sets. Can send you a pair if you want them.