predfan2001

No it's not, trust me. Conical, wokky, stir fry...the list goes on.

I'm missing the feel of a NATO strap so it will be this one

After looking at this wokky thing with disgust for nearly a year, I just desided to part it out (I didn't actually flush it even though I really considered it). Thank goodness I didn't pay full price for this 1:1 Sub rep. I made the mistake of not researching enough before I bought it. It was a spur of the moment thing when Andrew or whoever offered it to me at a discount because of a broke watch I received. At least the new Ultimate appears to have a better rehaut...but waaaay overpriced.

I left the bezel in a cup with bleach (face up so I could keep an eye on it) for about 2 hrs. I really didn't want it to fade this much but I like it. I have left some in for days that barely turned grey. I've never tried tumbling. I did the "jar of gravel" method once but it barely did anything. Plus grit is a watches enemy. Since then I like pecking the case up with a drill chuck key. Pecks bumps and scratches. I don't know if you've ever had one of these apart or not, but the stem release is a tiny pin that sticks up from the movement, unlike an ETA. I use the tip of my jewelers/pointy tweezers to release it. The movement is only retained by a plastic holder. Pulling the movement would be the best bet for case and dial mods, I just recommended the easy way. Good luck and show up some pics

Since I just finished it, I'll be wearing my 5513 Sub. Just to make sure everything is wrking as it should.

Well in my case, there just aren't any good 5513 dials that will fit a cn vintage Sub case. This case requires a 27mm-28mm dial. A gen is too small. This dial is from a Silix "no crown guard" Sub. I removed the outer marker ring and the "Officially Certified Chronometer" from the dial with micro fine sandpaper. I then used a mix of Testors Dullcoat and rust colored model paint (only a little, just to tint the clear) applied with an airbrush. I tinted the markers and added a few imperfections followed by a final coat of Dullcoat. Some of the RWG members have been happy with the look of a coat of flat clear or varnish on their 1665s. From what I have read here most of the 1665 owners want to keep the color of the markers original, but the application of a flat finish to the dial really helps.

Well I didn't really want to use this dial but I guess it will do till something better comes along. Mainly I just wanted to get this watch together and see how it looks. I started with a bare vintage case I bought from SIlix and went from there.

Here's an easy one. Get the factory that makes the 5517 ETA Submariner case to drill lugholes and use springbars rather than fixed bars. Create a good 5512 and 5513 dial and install the correct style case back. That's it. A cn vintage Sub that accepts gen crystals and dials. We could be moding $150 Subs rather than having to find a MBW.

Ok, I must admit that I am getting attached to this watch. I first thought it was an experiment gone wrong and I had wasted the money on another Silix Sub. But the more I look at it, the more I like it. The brown tone of the dial is really neat. I realize that the aged and worn look is not everyones cup of tea, but I like it. I just hope than one day someone comes out with a descent 5513. Odds are that if they do, I'll go broke because it is my favorite and I will have to do several. Till then I'm gonna drop this dial in my 5513 project.

I guess I'll try this one for a few days

Bleach. I have pics of a gen red 1680 that the bezel insert is faded really bad, almost silver. Since I'm just playing with this one I tried it out. The funny thing is it came out of the bleach brown. I thought that was lucky but the brown was just residue. It all wiped off.

Neat tool. I've never had any sort of tool to press hands on so I've had to come up with my own. The first was a smaller ball point pen. I used the front half to press them on. Then I used a couple springbars (20mm and 22mm) that had the tips removed. I chucked them up in a pin vise. Now I just use my fine tip swiss tweezers.

Ok, I've drank a few tonight so speaking of chocolate, here's my holiday gift to you guys:

Clear and a tad of rust colored military model paint mixed and shot with an airbrush. Then I speckled it slightly and dullcoated it. I was just hoping to tint the yellow lettering slightly. It worked, but the whole dial is brown now.

I experimented with a new technique on a Sub dial and it ended up brown. I planned on attempting to use this early dial in my 5513. I removed the outer ring and the "Officially Certified Chronometer" but this dial is not very accurate so my hunt continues. I was shooting for a dial with alot of patina and age. I just threw it back in the vintage case. Dang it.

The SOSF will be my first "non Rolex or Omega" rep. Most likely in a darker dial. It is truely a beauty.

I received my 2nd "no cg" vintage Sub this week. I bought this one to part out, I mainly just needed the dial and crystal for a project but the rest of the parts should come in handy. The lugholes on this one are just like the first one. Since the band seems secure, I swapped the movement and bezel from my first one. The funny thing is that when I removed the dial, I found a black date wheel . I guess this may be common in asian movement reps but its the first time I've seen that.

Still got on the recently completed 5517 w/Tudor dial

I never thought about that but I'll stick to the tape. I use it on the back side so if there is any residue, I'd never see it. Besides, as jittery as I am at times a Post its would never hold the hand . BTW Thanks Chris(???) for this tip originally posted here Sub mods

Dang it. I forgot one of the most important ones. Ok here's number 11. Read and remember!!!!!!! 11. Make sure there is NO lint or dust on the inside of the crystal or on the dial before reinstalling the movement. This one bites me more than any other.

This year has really flown by. I can't believe it's nearly 2008. For the New Years, I'd like to give a few tips to the rookie watch mod'ers. I bought my first rep early this year and it didn't take long before I started unscrewing the case backs and pulling them apart. I've learned alot here in RWG and I've learned a few things the hard way. Here is my top 10 suggestions for the new guys. I'll keep them simple but if anybody has any tips to add, please do so! 1. The best case back remover/installer is a squished ball of masking tape almost the size of a golf ball. Works like a champ and there is NO damage. 2. If you have a rep that you plan to get wet or wear much, set the crystal with clear epoxy or hypo cement. Many of the vintage crystals are barely pressed in. I've removed a few with only a gentle tap of my finger tip (from the inside). 3. If you pull the hands off, install a stem into the movement while it is still out and make sure the hands a properly indexed (hour hand properly aligned when the minute hand is on 12:00). Check and double check the hand alignment before installing the movement into the case. Also remember to set the date to change properly at midnight. It is recommended that the watch be set to 12:00 when the hands are pulled but I have had better luck with turning the time thru till the date changes and then installing the hands set to 12:00. 4. If you chose to age the dial or markers, thin the paint! If you don't, odds are there will be a gloppy mess. Its better to tint, not paint. 5. Be VERY careful with the keyless works when removing a stem. Use the recommended screwdriver tip fo ETAs. I damaged one using a pick. I learned my lesson but at least it was an asian movement rep I planned on learning with. 6. The best way to install a second hand is the way it is recommended here. Fold over a piece of Scotch tape but leave about 3/8" of the sticky side exposed. Stick the backside of the tip of the second hand there and use the tape to hold the hand steady. Using this method, I can install a second hand in just a few seconds. 7. If you are planning to start doing modifications to reps, buy a few cheapies to practice on first. Take them apart and put them back together. Practice mods and vintaging techniques on them. It doesn't matter if you do something wrong, you'll learn alot. Plus you will have extra parts for future projects. 8. Never get in a hurry. If you get frustrated or nervous, walk away and come back to it later. Even if is days later. 9. Handle dials with care. Especially gloss finish dials. I handled one so much that it became covered in finger prints. When I started to clean it, it started taking the dial lettering off. Some rep dial lettering and markers are very weak and the least rub can take them off. Also use a mask (like paper) under the hands when removing them to prevent damage to the dial face. 10. Study! Do searches here and read all you can. It will save you headaches! Happy Holidays to all! David

Ok I couldn't stand it anymore. I just had to try to paint all of the markers. I went ahead and put the right minute hand on while I was in there. I've done all I can with this one, time to start on my nodate Sub. The End (I hope)

I got brave and pulled the movement out this weekend (again, I was scared something would go wrong) and painted the 12-6-9 markers with a shade to match the hands. I thought about hitting the other hour markers but they are really small and my hand isn't that steady, I'd probably ruin the dial if I tried. The pic doesn't do it justice. The markers really make this dial stand out. I must say this project has been really fun and I love my new watch. I just can't seem to take it off. This has been one of the easiest watches to put together so far. I guess because the gen dial was the same size and the movement that I installed is the same, but with the date. The only thing left to change is the NATO band, I have a black one on the way. One thing I have thought about during this project is this. If the 5517 rep case accepts a gen size dial and crystal, what if the factories could make us a run of these cases without fixed bars but they must have lugholes. I'd take a few! I'm too poor to part out a MBW. I really like working with this case but I'd rather have one without fixed bars. I've been asked what I had in this watch. Most of the stuff was extra parts, but if I had to buy them, here's where I'd be: Silix 5517 Sub rep $150.00 (if you want one they are in the Airking section??) Gen Tudor dial off of eBay $60.00 A good used 2836-2 date movement $55.00 A quality NATO band $18.00 Replacement T39 crystal $10.00 Junky faded Sandoz bexel insert...free Total $293.00 Not bad being any Tudor Sub or Hydro is going to run you at least $1400-$1600! Remember, nothing says I wanted a Rolex but I couldn't afford it quite like a Tudor. (I guess it's really sad when you build a Tudor rep )

Thanks buddy. I appreciate the movement. A wonderful piece!