GenTLe

Benvenuto dal Varesotto

Considering the new 6497 comes with sterile bridges, the best is to get just the keyless parts (gen ones from Ofrei or CousinsUK) and replace what has been broken. The movement isn't a difficult one (the 21j are much more challenging, due to the massive pivot alignment they need to be put back together) but you need first to have some good tools (and they costs) and then practice on something much cheaper (ie: http://stores.ebay.com/worldofvintage-watches?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 ).

Yep! Mark... This thread is a tease. More or less like...

Lol, I am following you Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Uhm... I like IWCs but for many pieces they use a standard ETA coupled with a Dubois Depraz module... Not exactly an in-house movement... I would put them near Tudor and Tag. A step upper just because they also have few in-house ones.

Recently I read around that the 3 sacre members of the horology are: -VC -PP -AP Here I ask to the history of horology why they are so 'sacred' and where brands like JLC or Breguet (both historical too and master of complications too) are positioned respect to them. Thanks, GenTLe

Look here: Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Because the movement become slippery with that part on, much easier to fall, and also you can't operate on it well if that part is still on. In the end it is just a screw...

First remove the rotor: never take a movement out from the case with the rotor on... Then to remove the dial you have to release the 2 hooks that keep the dial feet there: I normally use a 1.2mm screwdriver.

I can't get why you scream fake... That's a gen. Look the balance bridge and fine regulator of the 17rs: The fake has this one: And this is the eBay you pointed fake:

I think mine looks quite ok 1 is fine and 10 is minimal and I didn't notice until this thread...

My 1st relume Here after a cloudy gray day 5 min exposition Here outside

Hi Mate, haven't seen a teardown or any service-related thread on any of the 3 fora I follow (basically RG, RGW and here). It would be GREAT if you may do some picture thread with the teardown and with some suggestion like "take care of this because it can fly away easily" or such.

This week I finally got the new ZF iw5001-14. The "check on arrival" process showed me that the all was working but the date was changing between 8.30pm and 10pm. So today I fixed the hands so that the date change is midnight sharp and I regulated it to keep good time. It looks a well made movement to me. It is stable face up, vertical crown left, up and right. It gains around 10s/d when face down. It autowinds in both directions (like an eta 2824, unlike the Miyota ones or the 775x). The stem is easy to extract and reinsert with a bit of care that is always needed in this task, starting from time regulation position. It looked clean, but a bit dry of oil... I put a bit of Moebius ones where I could (didn't want to service it for now). Also the rotor screw was quite loose... Not the others. At the beginning I thought that the bezel has to be removed to extract it from the case, but luckily the case back removal is enough. Now some pic. Before and after regulation: A couple of pics of the movement and hands alignment after the repositioning. Cheers, GenTLe

For the post? I accept donations [emoji14] Jokes apart, I only work on my pieces (and believe me I have enough to spend half weekend un them )

I wanted to put this in the how-to section but looks like I can't post there (at least from tapatalk). So I received a nice shiny115400 TFactory and, as I do for all my newcomers, I proceeded to regulate it and grease all the gaskets. Well, be careful with them because the part with the movement is just "sandwiched" between the case back and the bezel with front crystal. What I mean is that when you unscrew the caseback (supposedly having the watch laying flat face down) the whole case is disassembled! If you lift the watch at that point, the bezel and the 8 screws will remain on the working surface and the movement and its ring will stay more or less in place just because of the stem... My suggestion is to wrap together bezel and case BEFORE unscrew the case back: That way the movement middle case and bezel will stay in place BUT you can't then grease the bezel gaskets. If you want to grease the 2 bezel gaskets too (like I did), then it is a bit more complicated: you should not put the tape, but remove the case back while the watch is laying on a surface that you can lift. After you removed the case back then lift the whole working surface together with the watch head and, keeping an hand on the watch so that it stays in contact with the working surface, rotate everything to have then this situation (note that in the pic the case back and bracelet are attached just because this is an example pic, in the reality you shouldn't have both): Then you can remove the working surface (piece of flat wood in upper pic), put the watch on the table and lift the bezel to grease the gaskets. Do everything in the reverse order to have it back face down and being able to close it again. Cheers, GenTLe. Ah, the regulated and checked finished one:

Fujitsu forum in Munich and the classy JLC Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Last day of Universal expo in Milan. The tree of life (and a barely visible Fiddy)

Eheheh, only middle season vacation with my Hungarian gf Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Varese (IT) city park and Fiddy

Changed to big pilot for a trip over Como Lake in North Italy A couple of bonus shots for sightsee lovers: Como city A view of the lake near sunrise. Clooney's villa is just behind the corner

Interesting piece. What is it?

Bucolic LMPO today

This was proposed to me (and of course refused) as alternative of the double red SD (out of stock) and of the red sub (also out of stock). With a Comex dial and removing the date parts it wouldn't be that bad, but I don't want to put other 130$ for a dial in it .. I am now heading toward AP15400 (ok I will have to put there other 50$ but fine) with a tudor ranger as backup plan It was Watch-Station.co (Angus wholesaler site).

Guys, is it just me or this is a terrible mish-mash of remaining bits?