Toadtorrent

I think it's the white dialed thing. Most discussion here is on black dials. I do think the Spitfire is one great rep...and one of the nicest on brown croc you can get for a good mix of sporty elegance.

The way I understand it, there are a couple different levels of dealers and factories. There are a lot of factories making reps...but there are really only a couple factories (maybe 2-3...nobody knows for sure) that make the high end ones. There are about 4 or so dealers that work more closely with the high end factories than others...and they often front buying expensive gens...get them copied and either keep the gens or sell them and recoup more money. These "Level 1" dealers are higher volume dealers and getting better pricing because of volume, and because of volume have more input into the factories. There are "Level 2" dealers (not real designations...just for reference purposes) that deal in lower volumes...and then Level 3 dealers who may buy from the Level 1 dealers...and then down the line. Essentially...the lower down the line...the smaller your profit margin because you're not buying volume...so you can't offer as good service, because each service/warranty call, costs a significant portion of your profit. At Level 1, you get great prices because of volume, and can afford to replace a watch or 2 here due to customs issues, provide better repair services etc, because your initial cost is much lower due to volume. Reviewers here don't get paid for reviews...but fork out lots of money in terms of buying the pieces, and spending the time. People don't often say where they buy their watches from because each person's preference is personal based on experience. Every recommended dealer here has had complaints by a few members at one point in time or another...you have to decide which complaints your willing to deal with, based on the dealer's 'pros'. Good luck...and keep reading...it's informative and fun.

The SSD is great I think. There was a test of it down to saturation diving depths...crazy. It was terribly polluted water so the steel didn't fare well...but it didn't leak. You would NEVER encounter the issues that this test experienced unless you do professional saturation diving in top secret locations...and if that's the case, Comex would likely give you a gen.

Personally, I don't like the DaVinci Quartz at all...too much of a 70's flashback...but the bad part of the 70's...and NOT the part about the promiscuous unprotected sex with multiple partners and experimentation with a variety of mind-expanding drugs...well maybe that was the 60's...but you get my point. I want this one:

Good choice on the Panda. If you have all those other black dials...the panda is a great addition. I'm still thinking of getting one of these.

I did a review of this one too.

The Seiko 5 and other auto Seiko's are great watches. Those I think are great pieces for any collection and great for anybody looking for a tool watch. I agree with BT on the Invicta, Sandoz, and Alpha's. I just think for the most part they seem cheaper by design and feel. I would much better have a copy of great design, than an almost-homage to the same design that has had the company's own interpretation of style and fashion added to it.

The problem is that there is a fault with the movement (if it is indeed the rotor that is causing the "vibration" when winding). A dealer should take it back...but for this issue...if the power reserve is fine when the watch does the auto-wind when worn, is it worth shipping back and being out of the watch for 2 months or do you say screw it, because the watch works find with the auto-wind. It's a common problem unfortunately, and probably one that would be solved with better conditions in possibly the assembly of the watch or the movement itself that is causing the wheel to get dirty enough to stick. I have one that I'm leaving. I like it...and will probably service it some time down the line...but I'm not going to worry about the problem as it does it work when swirled. Don't shake like a paint mixer...it can damage the watch.

It sounds like you have a sticky reversing wheel. As BT said, you should avoid winding by the crown if at all possible. Read the links in my Noob Guide for more information. The vibration is likely the rotor spinning while you wind, which should NOT happen. It would be solved with cleaning or you can look up Francisco's solution to it...but his solution is definitely best left to somebody with watch fixing experience, less you destroy the movement. Does it affect the watch? If it works with a few light swirls to get things going...just rely on the auto-winding...or get things serviced. If you have to manually wind it...do it very slowly.

It really depends on your eye for detail, and how much you're willing to spend. The SA is a great rep visually. The 6.75 will always be off because of the movement...with the 30s chrono.

Just goes to show that you may not have spoken with each other had you met on the street, but take away the pretense of age and appearance and just focus on the common interest in watches and there's fun to be had by all...regardless of age, country, timezone, etc.

That's actually not out of line for the 7750 servicing...assuming they did a complete disassembly, cleaning and proper oiling. Even for the UPO with a complete ETA 2824 breakdown, that's definitely within the ballpark. For $60, that's almost guaranteed, they did NOT perform a complete movement breakdown but did what is called a dip and dunk servicing. Comlete breakdown requires removing EVERY freakin' screw, ultrasonic cleaning and oiling with at least 3 different kinds of oils depending on the requirements.

That is excellent!!

This sounds better out of context...think of long trenchcoats and bare legs. I know a halogen light would surely be able to do some serious damage. I stick to low heat compact fluorescents.

Man that was a funny thread!!

very nice. Does that have a tang buckle or deployment on it? That strap doesn't look too bad. How does it feel...or is it better to upgrade to a gen croc strap? Good choice on the panda dial.

It's tricky because you have a kid in the mix...but the bottom line, for a relationship to work long term, the parties involved have to accept the differences each other has. If she doesn't like your interests...that shouldn't be something you have to change if it's an interest that doesn't really hurt anybody. If there was a problem like your kid hasn't eaten for 2 days because you had no money, then suddenly bought 3 more watches...then there's a problem with priorities and that does need fixing. But, watches are a harmless albeit expensive hobby...and an interest in them should not be the reason to end a relationship...unless it became like any real addiction, all consuming and destructive.

I think you might be out of luck. All of the good versions have the blue screws. The new Day-Date has the new rotor with ETA style nut, but still blue screws.

Search and ye shall find: Datora Reviews All in all, a decent rep but light AR and the date font is a bit off...but not really bad at all.

That's a bummer. When I first started with the reps, I had generally bad experiences with the Asian movements...sent a bunch of watches back with crappy movements (dead or slipped datewheels). It's annoying because some people have great experiences with the Asian movements...and others have had a series of dud experiences. This is hit and miss with the Asian movements and the solutions are: Return it...again for repair...paying for shipping and waiting 2 months for the fixed item (I've had to do this 3x...on a watch that cost $100...not so cost effective eh?) If you ask to upgrade to a Swiss movement...it MAY be more reliable (but some say the dirtiness of some of the ETA movements...if they are ETA) makes them STILL unreliable without servicing...and you'll have to pay RETURN shipping as well as it will be considered a new order Stick to A7750s which can be expensive to maintain...but when serviced solid as a rock and makes for amazing designs Learn to swap movements on your own...and buy a few of them. Good luck.

Holy cow...a great story and one that made me smile Big Big!!

Both are beautiful watches and well executed reps. It's true the datewheel on the Date needs replacing if you're a stickler for details. I do like the Day-Date but find the dial a bit busy with the extra ring of numbers...but luckily the larger size makes up for that...and makes it not seem so cramped. I have the Carrera racing (black with red hands) and love it. Fantastic watch on bracelet. Like it was mentioned before, the extra money for the Day-Date means you get double AR, larger size, better datewheels, better rotor and better rotor bearing (like the Valjoux rotor nut) and likely improved probability of water resistance for swimming (better to get it checked of course).

Yeah...it is a bit insulting when people tell you how hard the economy is and they flash expensive bling or demonstrate that the hardship is for you...not them. I'm sure the hotel you met at was pretty nice too. Good luck on the next phase.

Using the small amount of glue (even epoxy) shouldn't be an issue in removal. Obviously glue would have to be used again for reinstall. The Zigmeister has used epoxy on hands where pinching won't work without difficulty and tested removal and re-install as well. Mind you...I'm not the watchmaker doing the work...so only their QUALIFIED experience would be the true answer...but again, given how glue is used even on datewheel overlays (that I have experience with), removal and reinstall is not an issue.

The issue with the original post was with the DSSD. The SSD/SD pearl's are easy to find (Watchmaterial). The DSSD has the blue lumed pearl with a different profile than the Subs/SD/etc.