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http://pureti.me/product/submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-11-noob-best-edition-a2836/ and http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=10407 Also from this site: http://imgur.com/a/1bY9m I am about to purchase and want to know if these are the same! Please let me know if you know if these are the same... Also, Any positive and negative criticism for and against each is very welcome. I am looking to make a purchase. ...Puretime just told me they are out of stock for 1 - 2 months...

Heavy pic of TC16610 V5 Caddell + Insert THIS IMAGE CAN TELL YOU Thanks for looking.

Hi mates! Was offered this through a friend: Wondering if it really is gen.... Thanks for your help!!! E

greetings. been just lurking since i join recently. i'm looking for get a rep rolex for my mother and i was wondering which version/model is best? can anyone recommend one? what she considers important is the movement of the second hand that casual lookers consider as the barometer for real vs fake. personally, i'm not into rolexes so i don't know anything about such.... thanks in advance

Hi everyone, A few months back I bought a used Rolex Explorer I from chiman12. The transaction went great, and the watch that arrived was absolutely gorgeous, and in perfect working condition. My thanks to chiman12 for sending me such a great watch at such a great price. Anyway, fast forward to last weekend. I was at a wedding, and must have bumped into something, because now the watch is making a funny noise, like a part has fallen loose, and is tumbling around inside (sounds like it is scraping against the caseback). The good think is, the watch itself is still keeping time perfectly, and the automatic movement still runs beautifully... I think something just became dislodged and is tumbling around on the inside. ANYWAY. Wondering if there is anyone (preferably a member) in LA/SFV that has even minor watch repair skills, just to open it up and see if they can re-attach whatever is klinking around. As I said, the movement still works perfectly, so I think this is simply a minor issue. Anyway, any advice would be appreciated!

I like the look of when vintage Rolexes with drilled lug holes have the spring bars poking through. But they're not ordinary springbars. We know they're thicker (2mm). But it also looks like their ends are rounded. Is that true? Where can I get similar spring bars, thick with the rounded edge? Are they available in other sizes and thicknesses? If anyone can shed light as to whether they do have special rounded ends, and if there's a source for similar ones, that'd be great.

Well, since last time I got my first Sea Dweller DEEPSEA CHALLENGE for my trial to unlock the door to watch hobby. I admit I’m indulged. So here comes my second purchase, also the Sea Dweller, but a standard DEEPSEA Sea Dweller of 44mm (my last one is 52 nearly and see the first review here). Firstly, a side by side pic of my two babies. Clear size difference, huh? Actually, except from the dimension, most the other parts are quite alike, like the material, technics of watch parts. But here I’m going to specify… The standard DEEPSEA Sea Dweller, applied a helium escape valve at left side of the watch, which somehow approximately being an ornament for my replica since I would never wear my replica to deep sea diving, moreover, I am not dive. Whatever, the standard DEEPSEA Sea Dweller shows a thinner case and sapphire crystal than my last DEEPSEA CHALLENGE. Sides of case as well as the bracelet are carefully polished, presenting a better craftsmanship. Sorry to display the blur lume pic, apologies for my poor photography. But somehow it obviously glows out beautiful blue color, whereas pretty much close to the lume of gens. Average Sea Dweller replicas are mostly like exude weak green light. Therefore, I am consent with this part. I have checked gen pic of DEEPSEA Sea Dweller online, and found some subtle differences between my DEEPSEA Sea Dweller and gens: 1. the top pearl (here I rotated it to 1 o’clock occasionally) appears slightly flat and thinner. 2. Three plateaus on crown of my replica seem wider and bigger. 3. Also the most important one spot that the movement of my replica is assembled with a supercloned Asian 3135 movement, but with much better polish than my last purchase, though not able to rival with gens, but actually keeping time at -9s per day, which is more accurate than my first DEEPSEA CHALLENGE as well. Simply from the outlook, like the solid stainless case, sapphire crystal and the almost identical dial, this watch is really hard to identify without a gen watch pic or entity for comparison or through any untrained eyes, like me. hehe… Thus, all my review about this watch is done from my own limited watch insight. Any points out and advice are welcomed.

I'm trying to figure out [gen] case thickness of the Rolex 5512/13/14 for a project. I'm not sure how thickness is usually measured, but if someone knows the thickness of the caseback+case+bezel, that would be great.

Hello all! Earlier this week I bought my first Rolex replica after a long (long long long long long) time searching, reading and asking questions. Please welcome my Rolex Submariner Ceramic Noob V1. If this looks boring, and it probably is, just skip to the pictures! (i'm sure they will do some justice!) Why Did I Go With The V1: Trust me, I know the V2 is out! But if I were to buy it and spend the $300+, I only wanted to buy it new with a Asian clone mvnt. Pureti.me was the only person I was talking to about Stock availability in the V2, and they kept telling me 2 weeks until they get it in... 1 week passed, 2 weeks passed, 3 weeks passed and still no stock for them. So I decided to spend less money on a V1 and live with the flaws! It has nothing to do with the differences between the V1 and V2, I simply bought it since I was eager to have my first rep Rolex! My First Thoughts: I definitely never noticed how white Rolex' lume applicator was until I went in a local Rolex store and took a peek. By the looks of it, the V1 doesn't have many flaws... Okay maybe if you know your watches and get in its face then you can tell the flaws, but the quality of this watch is amazing. Flaws I've noticed w/ out Having to go Back to the Books: By this, I mean what I noticed myself that differed from my genuine Rolex research without having to go back on the Forums and ask questions or search for differences of my V1 to the Gen. It seems like the flaws are minimal. I bought this watch via M2M and the previous owner did a Bezel paint mod and waterproofed and tested. With that it is very gen-like already. However I did noticed the minute markers do not reach the reheut, the 'm' in '300m' is not spaced away from the '300' enough and not italicizes enough. (I have not done research on the following so don't judge me). --> the pearl is definitely off on this one. It is centered to the triangle, however, if you can tell in the following pictures - the previous owner must have accidentally brushed the paint on the pearl while trying to do the bezel paint mod. This is not that big of an issue to me as I am currently searching for a replacement Bezel + Pearl. As for the bezel, I don't know much about the difference with the gen. ceramic and rep. noob ceramic so I will let you all be the judge of the. The bracelet feels light to weight but the fit and feel is as comforting as a leather strap. Ok maybe I'm exaggerating... The brushed S/S is a nice look but the 314L definitely does not compare to Rolex' 904L S/S uses. I can already notice some wears and marking just from moving the adjustment clasp up and down. The date-magnifier gets a lot of reflection and does not look gen-like at all when taking a close look, or even when trying to take a picture of the watch outside. From what I remember, I will need to have the mag AR? coated. Future Expectations (modding): - I don't know if it would fit, but I'm thinking of buying a Noob V2 bracelet from another member who has an extra one lying around and try to fit it in. - I definitely want to replace the ceramic bezel and pearl on this one, something doesn't look right to me and I can't put my eye on it! From here I will need to do some more research on modding a Rolex to decide what else is necessary for mine to look more gen-like, but I will definitely appreciate any suggestions! The main reason I wanted to write this review: I wanted a better eyes opinion. Not because I can't live with it, I love it, but I would like to know what you noticed that I haven't. This will help me in the future when buying Rolex. Do you think there are major differences between the Noob V1 and Noob V2?: No, honestly a replica watch is a replica watch, each will have its own flaws, they will never be spot on but like we all say, buy it if you can live with its flaws! And I'm still living. . . . . _____________________________________________________________________________________________ Now for the close-up shots. Bezel Close Up (paint mod outcome) Pearl Close Up (I believe you can see the paint on Pearl.) Direct View of Dial Well, for now that's all. I look forward to reading your comments, replies, remarks or suggestions! Thanks for looking

Short video from Hodinkee.com. Nice collection! http://tudorwatch.hodinkee.com/tudor/2013/10/16/video-the-thirteen-milsubs-of-grahame-fowler

Hey all, not sure where to put this! I'm looking for someone with access to a gen rolex 1960's case with the rounder engraved font (as pictured below). If you have such a piece, and are capable of taking comparable pictures, please pm me for an epic build I'm about to embark upon! - Whoop

Thought I would post some quick snaps of these two. The Datejust specs: (gen)ETA 2892A2. gen Rolex 16233 DateJust case set E serial (1991) gen Rolex 295c crystal + gasket gen Rolex DateJust silver sticks dial (markers are white gold) gen Rolex tudor hands gen Rolex engine turned bezel gen Rolex SS crown gen Rolex datewheel gen Rolex clasp Nearly everything visible to the naked eye is gen. Even the springbars are gen, though you can't see them. Weight is within 2 grams of a 3135-equipped DJ. The sub took like 6 months to get to my door. It got lost in the mail. Supercool member Coolchu001 waited patiently with me while everything got resolved. He also shot the first two pictures, which made me want the sub in the first place. TC 16610 LN Gen Insert TC 'Combi' bracelet V3 with V2 clasp Clark crystal Thanks for your time!

Hi all, Looking to buy a 5513 from one of our TD's. From whom should I buy and which version would be the best way to go? Josh, Trevor, Angus ? Thanks for helping me out! If anyone wants to part with their 5513, please keep me in mind as well. Thanks!

Hey guys and girls (Its been quite a while since my last post here); My brother was recently in Shanghai, and as usual the question "do you want something from here?" popped in... and my obvious answer was " Of course I do! A cheap rep".. And it was indeed cheap. I didn't want to go to the obvious submariner choice, mostly due to the "you will cry in pain when you see it" issue, and since my brother doesn't actually knows how to differentiate a watch from an orange, ive sent him a picture of an explorer I and the " do not under any circumstance spend more than 70 usd on it...". And so he did.. I ended up with a strange explorer that I quite like!.. and it costed 50 usd.... (no idea where he got it, and I don't think he has either).. and being not an expert or even close to that, I wanted to share a few phone pics of my new weird rolex... I would love some opinions about it.. and sorry about the crappy pics Cheers, A.

Here's a dial on the bay that I am thinking about buying http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-dial-for-steel-or-white-gold-Rolex-Submariner-/331034919809?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d13380381 I need to know; would this fit the Noob V2 SubC or BP ? Also, I don't have a watch-maker so who should I go to to put this together with the Sub i end up buying? (i.e i live in NY) How much would it cost to pay someone for replacing a dial with this? THANKS

I want to buy the best Submariner Ceramic Bezel, found out that the 116610(LN?) is the best one. I've been talking to PureTi.me and TrustyTime, i found these: http://www.ttw888.co...oducts_id=10408 http://pureti.me/pro...-edition-a2836/ are those both 116610? Andrew states on his website it is 116600 but in description of the watch it says it replicates the 116610 Also, the video for Andrew shows a very dim lume, is that just cause the lume didn't have enough time to charge up or is that how i will see the watch? Anyone have any watches from TrustyTime or PureTime and pics? Please post I need more reference before buying.. PureTime says they dont have it in stock, but Andrew says he has it in stock and ready to ship. Also: TrustyTime has 116600A - 116600B - 116600C . I know he states that they are just changes in the movement from Asian to Swiss and higher prices but are there any differences to the watch itself? Which one should I buy? THANKS ALL AHEAD OF TIME!

I want to buy the best Submariner Ceramic Bezel, found out that the 116610(LN?) is the best one. I've been talking to PureTi.me and TrustyTime, i found these: http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=10408 http://pureti.me/product/submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-11-noob-best-edition-a2836/ are those both 116610? Andrew states on his website it is 116600 but in description of the watch it says it replicates the 116610 Also, the video for Andrew shows a very dim lume, is that just cause the lume didn't have enough time to charge up or is that how i will see the watch? Anyone have any watches from TrustyTime or PureTime and pics? Please post I need more reference before buying.. PureTime says they dont have it in stock, but Andrew says he has it in stock and ready to ship. Also: TrustyTime has 116600A - 116600B - 116600C . I know he states that they are just changes in the movement from Asian to Swiss and higher prices but are there any differences to the watch itself? Which one should I buy? THANKS ALL AHEAD OF TIME!

I am looking to acquire an automatic GMT, with stainless bracelet. I'm interested in the "scalability" of the piece as much as the aesthetics. Meaning, I want to get something that looks and works great right "out of the box" (I like the Planet Ocean GMT, and the PAM North Pole especially), functions accurately AND is compatible with the maximum of GEN parts for hybridizing. For instance, the Omega that seems to accept (with some retooling) a GEN HEV, crown/stem, dial/hands. I am especially fond of the "tool diver" look. I'd appreciate any and all feedback on this topic.

My silix arrived last week, I wore it for a few days and when the weekend arrived I couldn't resist, I had to build what I've been waiting for for about a year. before- dial and hands ageing, case and crown ageing and reshape. Finished- with a Clark tropic-19 sanded slightly lower and added. and with it's little sister Wristy Cornholio lume shot.

The 5513 was produced for around thirty years. Over that time, it saw many dial variations. I would appreciate your help deciding which one to match to this case. It's a gen midcase with serial number removed. Based on its thin profile and original tube, a 24-7000, I would date it to the mid-to-late 60's. Do you agree? A 700 crown screws down perfectly. What dial(s) are correct for it? Thanks!

Hi all, I have an ultimate version of the deep sea dweller with 2836 movement that I got from perfect clones about 2 months ago. I've worn it maybe 10 times. I just shook my wrist and the bezel insert fell off without provocation. Anyone ever have an issue with that before? If I get a replacement insert will it fit and if so how do I secure it to the bezel? Thanks E

Gentlemen! I need some expert advise on a project of mine: what is the best case set to accomodate a gen 1665 white SD Dial (also all other parts like crown+tube, plexi, bezel assembly etc). i am looking for something other then yuki, NGT, Phong...(which means cheaper...) Any hints?? Thanks for all your help and advise. Cheers! PS : if you happen to have a case set for sale i like to hear about it...Thanks! oh i forgot: i like to use a ETA movement.....

Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum, I tried researching this subject but couldn't find an answer. I recently bought a DayDate II from Trusty Time and I'm having a little issue that I hope you guys can help with. When I first got the watch and set the time, day, and date, everything was fine and it was switching the day and date at midnight just fine. After not wearing it for about 4 days, I set the day and date, but now it won't switch day and date at midnight, it does so either at noon, or at 3pm. I've tried changing the day/date at noon and at midnight to maybe offset it, but no change. Is there a trick to this to make sure it changes day/date at or around midnight? Thanks in advance

Hi all, I'm new to this, but I'm after a rolex sub 116610LN. Looking to spend $500 on one. Any ideas of where I can obtain the best possible on for this price?

The Topic does not lie! I just made my first purchase with TrustyTime. After speaking to Andrew for a good amount of time, a lot of research and a feel for one watch, I finally sealed the deal. The watch: Ulysse Nardin Black Sea Marine Chronometer 263-92-3C (Red Markers) Picture will be posted below. I will also update this thread as much as I can, including when the package arrives and my notes on it. May even upload a video and some modding? My question is, since I know a lot of people here have good faith in TrustyTime, what was the first watch you bought from them? How long did it take for it to arrive? Upload your pics!!! Do you have a Ulysse Nardin? Upload picks i'd love to see it. Have you done any mods to your Ulysse Nardin? Upload pics & info - i'd love to read it! Also, if anyone can answer this question: From the date that Andrew gives me the tracking #, how long should it take to arrive to New York, USA? Thank guys looking forward to seeing your photos and comments below!