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Gen 1570 movement worth it?


danielv2000

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I am thinking of putting a gen 1570 in either my 1680 or 1665 MBW. I just wonder if it's really worth it? Both watches look spectacular as is with gen crown, tube, crystals and inserts. The 1680 also has a gen date wheel.

Also, will I be able to keep the dials? They are both NDT dials, vintagized nicely.

Any thoughts?

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Yes, you can keep your existing dials. NDT are essentially re-dials and meant for gen movements.

Only you can say if it is worth it. If the watch is wearing well, and you are happy, the bang for the buck might not be there for you.

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How did you get a gen date wheel for your 1680 and How is it fitted to your movement if you dont mind me asking? I have a 1680 gen crown, tube, crystal and the entire watch is completely thrown off by the DWO it is horribly to the left and is driving me crazy. If I could go gen great!! and if I had a gen movement! :clap2: I would put that bad boy in my 1680 any day! :partytime:

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@iRolexu: I posted in your other thread but I'll post here as well: IMHO, gen movements are the ultimate. Once you achieve this (very expensive) level, you are 99.99999% there. That would be an alternative to installing an overlay. As a bonus, you wouldn't have to cut the feet off of the "gen" Ingod or NDT/Yuki dials.

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@iRolexu: I posted in your other thread but I'll post here as well: IMHO, gen movements are the ultimate. Once you achieve this (very expensive) level, you are 99.99999% there. That would be an alternative to installing an overlay. As a bonus, you wouldn't have to cut the feet off of the "gen" Ingod or NDT/Yuki dials.

Since I am using non-gen movements, how can I transfer in a gen movement if the dial feet have been cut?

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How did you get a gen date wheel for your 1680 and How is it fitted to your movement if you dont mind me asking? I have a 1680 gen crown, tube, crystal and the entire watch is completely thrown off by the DWO it is horribly to the left and is driving me crazy. If I could go gen great!! and if I had a gen movement! :clap2: I would put that bad boy in my 1680 any day! :partytime:

I bought it that way from another member. Maybe others can chime in.

It looks perfect. Beautiful open 6's and 9's.

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Freddy, Ronin

What's a fair price? I've been watching on eBay for sometime. Is $1,200 in the right ball park?

When I started, my goal was to spend a few hundred bucks and "pull it off". Now, I wish to achieve the most accurate rep at a reasonable price point.

Thanks

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@danielv2000: If the dial feet have already been cut off, you glue/tape the dial to the movement holder.

I don't think you have a gen datewheel, unless you have a gen movement. Gen datewheels rotate the opposite direction from every other movement I know of...

Which member did you buy it from?

edit: Just saw your new post; yes, I believe 1200 is reasonable. If you are looking for a 1575, be sure to find a movement with the right dial holder on top. There is an excellent post about it somewhere, but basically you do NOT want the cone-shaped top. (IIRC)

Edited by ww12345
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Spending $1000-1200 for a gen movement isn't worth is to me anymore, been there, done that. Particularly with the 1680/1665 when you can put in a 2846 and have something that is just as good movement wise. By the time you spend $2000-3000, you could have spent a little more and got a true gen which will only go up in value if you care for it properly. A franken will always be a franken.

Some of my favorite reps are the ones which cost me either side of $500, they're modded and WR, great beaters and if I tear them up, who cares, I can fix them easily.

But that being said, I'll probably still build another valjoux powered 6239, as soon as I secure a decent dial! So each to his own.

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I love the gen movements, reverse datewheel direction, perfect date placement, feel of winding, quietness of the rotor, etc. It is a real luxury if you can afford it. But the issue for a 1680 is always as has been said previously is that you will be well above 50% of the cost of a gen at which point I am saving my pennies for a gen. Now if you are building a 1665 or Red Sub or anything which would normally sell for $7k or more it makes a lot more sense to me. And of course the best part about gen parts is that you can always sell them for what you paid (if you bought intelligently) and get your money back that way if you want out.

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"Spending $1000-1200 for a gen movement isn't worth is to me anymore, been there, done that. Particularly with the 1680/1665 when you can put in a 2846 and have something that is just as good movement wise. By the time you spend $2000-3000, you could have spent a little more and got a true gen which will only go up in value if you care for it properly. A franken will always be a franken."

Agree 100%.

Otoh, I will say an F-stein with a genuine movement is probably Ok as long as you can sell the watch for what you have in it (counting outside labor)...in one piece or parted out.

I have one that will probably sell for what I have in it, a '1680'...but only because I got a race horse deal on the mvt and dial.

...and one that will not, a '1655'. Maybe break even if I live to be 100.

I can not see myself putting a 2846 in a Yuki/NDT etc $high buck$ case with a $150+ IG etc dial...but I can see going with a 2846 in a low buck cartel case/dial with a few low cost mods.

I have said this before and will say it again...rolex movements are Ok but parts and service are a real problem. If you buy a 1575 for $1000+ and it turns out to have a worn out rotor axle, w/o reversers, ms arbor hole in the main plate worn out of round etc...all you have left is a few parts for your $1000+.

'Collectors/dealers' may buy three 1575 powered watches and make two out of the best parts, then sell the one with the worst parts.

Some of this stuff is getting close to 50 years old and there is a lot of junk out there for sale.

Something else...when you need to have a rolex movement cleaned/oiled...you will pay the 'Doctor Price' :euro: ...unless you know a 'watchguy'. :crazy:

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For me... I couldn't do a build these days unless it was with a gen movement. So much easier to work with than an ETA in many regards. Plus, gen dials can retain their original dial feet... If I were to ever break a build back down into parts to liquidate, there would be no issue or hassle in getting my money back out of those items.

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And a gen 1570 need not cost $1200 either. I've picked up several for under $900...

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This is my dilemma. I am on the fence. I appreciate all the input. A franken will always be a franken and to have a complete gen less the case is fine with me. The point raised on parts is also good as I am no modder and no watch smith.

I also recognize that getting above 50% of the cost of a gen doesn't make sense to me.

Now you've got me worried about this date wheel. I will post pics of the cyclops. I've compared it to many many pics and always believed it was. As I said, that's how it was sold to me by a respected member on another forum.

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Maybe it's because I've just always been a movement guy, but I would say it's definitely worth it. Having an interesting movement is half the value of a watch in my books. The thing I like about the rep world is that you can get a watch with some nice parts (ETA mov't, cool casebacks, sapphire crystals, etc.) for cheaper than you would a gen. If you're already going to spend more money, best off having a nice high end movement rather than a plain, common ETA. The movement is the main reason I'd be willing to pay more money for a gen. Once you put one in a franken rep, you're pretty much at gen level. Not having to cut off dial feet on a gen dial is a major plus too. If you don't put in a gen movement, at least put in another interesting movement. I could list some if needed, and maybe someone has some insight as to which would fit in the case.

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Sometimes a better value is to get an entire Datejust watch, you can find them sometimes $1000-$1400 and use the movement. This way you can always resell an entire watch as well. Just my $.02

Just a quick note, most DJ's have pie-pan dials and a different calendar retaining ring that make them more difficult to drop into MBW/Phong/Yuki/NDT cases for the tool watch you are most likely building (551x, 1680x, 1665, 1675). A "Date" instead of a "DateJust" is a better 1:1 swap.

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