rolojack Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Here is my latest built for a fellow member: see the rear of the mid case !!!! I finally was able to get the proper tool to perfectly shape the lip where the back case meets the mid case !!!! First time ever I believe.... Specs : JMB base mid case and bezel, totally redone. Reshaped lugs on top to achieve the proper "drop", 30% metal removed on the sides, phony serial and ref removed, trimmed rehaut. RT caseback, Yuki dial, TC hands, Verlux T21, Genuine 600 crown and tube, rep sringbars with trimmed and polished tips to get a perfect fit. Enjoy !!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest REPPIN Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Beautiful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhooq Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Stunning! Honestly, I'd never even noticed that lip before! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue. Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Congratulations! That case looks like genuine 1016, the whole bottom is gen spec! Do you have any side profile pictures rolojack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Beautiful work here. Case edges look nice and sharp which is difficult when thinning/shaping. I was able to get the thinness on mine but lost some of the edge. I have another case for another attempt. Curious what proper tool did you use? Man that looks really good. Sent from my droptop using telepathy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preacher62 Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Best I've ever seen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomhorn Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 1016 builds just keep getting better and better. Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolojack Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Some pics of my own 1016 with case back removed.... As for the endlinks fit, you can see my older post about this watch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Nicely done! Not trying to pick-nits but just curious with this question. It looks like the case-back is sitting a bit proud of the case, is this a byproduct of removing the "lip" or is the back just not screwed down all the way? I'm more worried about any compromise in the waterproofness... It seems that the more these cases are tweaked closer to gen shape the more minute details are discovered/uncovered by the eagle-eyes around here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WCM21_88 Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Beautiful piece Rolojack three thumbs up if I had em' haha Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceocorona Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Very nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagnesky Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Looks great Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolojack Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Nicely done! Not trying to pick-nits but just curious with this question. It looks like the case-back is sitting a bit proud of the case, is this a byproduct of removing the "lip" or is the back just not screwed down all the way? I'm more worried about any compromise in the waterproofness... It seems that the more these cases are tweaked closer to gen shape the more minute details are discovered/uncovered by the eagle-eyes around here! There is a flat nylon gasket, hence the mild gap. Only way to make it waterproof, as digging a groove to host a rubber gasket is too hazardous due to the minimal amount of metal left between the lip and the tube hole. When you hold the watch, you really don't notice that.... Pictures are really unforgiving ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Nice job RJ! One question- what is a RT caseback? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 RJ, OK. That makes sense, I was just curious about the gap as all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck P Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Looks spectacular. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue. Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 The modification on the case bottom is the right direction. Perhaps the gen 1016 cases have started with a bit more case thickness in order to achieve the specific lug hole grooves and brushed areas and allow a groove for the gasket. I suspect the whole bottom of the case is: 1st sanded down to a slim profile with sort of a cylindric tool, where the is axis coincides with the axis of the crown in the picture. 2nd the caseback area and gasket groove are lathed down, where the lathe axis coincides with the axis of the movement rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolojack Posted January 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Here are some pics of my own 1016 with aged and retextured dial and hands.... Here, you can see the endlinks fit after modification. They started as WSO 580. My 1016 is fitted with a top hat T22 as that is the look I prefer. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Excellent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck P Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Very nice Rolojack! Care to share any techniques on modifying the 580 end links? I have thought about pulling out the Dremel put don't want to go at it blindly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselpower Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Fantastic work. The owner is a lucky man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchguy2 Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 I agree, very nice. Just finished my own but better not post it here LOL, it is not half as good as yours. One question, why the 21 crystal, the 1016 is supposed to have the 22 crystal or am I wrong here? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolojack Posted January 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 I agree, very nice. Just finished my own but better not post it here LOL, it is not half as good as yours. One question, why the 21 crystal, the 1016 is supposed to have the 22 crystal or am I wrong here? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD That's correct. However, finding a top quality dome shaped T22 as per original early Explorer specs is near impossible. T21 is the most cost efficient way to achieve that look.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2pac Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 wow Rolojack is really really really beautiful construction! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dilligaf24824 Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Quick question: how did you remove the serial number on the lugs and the phony name? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.