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Wearing my Phase 1 '42 today

5513 in today

Specifications: Rolli's FGD - 001 PreA Marina Dial Artwork in Swiss Oem Quality: here we introduce a more than rare artwork 001 PreA Marina dial in swiss oem quality and standard. made by a high grade oem swiss dial maker, made in switzerland. the oem standard and oem rules say, only to use high end materials and high grade machines, made in switzerland. materials only from swiss companies which also are developer for the well know products for the watch making, also the machines, cnc machines from almac swiss, absolutely fast runner with 5 independent spindles and perfect for recessed indices milling and for all dial applications, also for movement parts etc. all watch brands with in house production factory work with this special swiss almac cnc machine. all our dials were made on this machine. all the swiss oem dial maker have an expensive high grade machine park and be guided by ingineure. basic material is finest brass alloy , punched to a round plate with 1,0 mm and welded the unitas 6497 feet. indices cnc machine milled, processed the surface to a thickness of 0,97 mm. and then on the surface the fine glass beads blasting, after the cleaning process and the black galvanic process. for the final finish was applied the zapon varnish with satin sheen finsih. now the dials have a final thickness of 1,0 mm. note: all indices numerals shape have the typical pre vendome features, see the lower sharp corner in the contour on the 6, and the preV typical numerals shapes. PreV Style indices milling: all indices numerals contours were pre-milled with a 0.1 mm milling cutter, so that the sharp corners in 6 could be made, after with a 0,4 mm milling cutter were milled the inner rest. it was only possible with a special swiss almac cnc machine, and necessary a special pre working and programming on the cad program. a very elaborate cnc machine procedure. note: all PreV and all preA dials have this special numerals feature on the shape contours. now the dials went to swiss rc tritec for our special tritium look. last year we developed a tritium simulated high grade super luminova color, 10 years burned out look. rc tritec switzerland analyzed this color and produced it in triple high grade-A super luminova a special color for us. i could buy the original old stock tritium resin varnish UV820 from rc tritec, which was still in stock from 1993 and i could buy the rest stock. the tritium high glossy resin varnish uv820 is the original which was used for all tritium mixes , and as protection against the radioactivity. all indices are filled with this mixture by swiss rctritec employee by hand with the stylograph in the typical recessed preV style filling. the preV fgd hands are special made for us including the small second hand including a longer second hand tube, are also filled by rc tritec with a non matched high grade-A tritium simulated super luminova. after this process the dials went to the swiss printer, for the print steel cliché, and for the final lettering print, also with swiss berlac paint in high glossy peal white. this was a small introduction to the oem manufacture, i already studied for years all these single procedures and steps and could train and instruct the dial maker for the important details, also i trained the engineer and graphic designer for the vector graphic on auto cad for all the important sensible details. we had a genuine dial and high resolution scan all the time as basic for the profuction. For more Details please send a PM regards Rolli

I sometimes chuckle when I read some of the "suggestions" concerning drilling holes in lugs so I thought I would present some of my observations. I have drilled a few and also being a machinist have a little knowledge about such things as drilling holes. I have read more than once people suggesting to run the drill at slow speed. This is absolutely wrong! If you run the drill too slow, especially with a small drill bit, your chance of snapping a bit skyrocket. When drilling lugs I run the spindle in my mill as fast as I can, which at 2500 RPM is actually still too slow. Case must be held rigidly. I use a mill but a cheap drill press will likely work in a pinch. A really cheap drill-press may have too much slop in the quill to allow a good precise clean "spot" with the center drill. Start the hole with a center-drill (#0 for DJ holes or #1 for the bigger ones). Use a drop or two of oil. This is more for "grab" prevention than cooling. To cool you would need a constant flood of cutting fluid. Don't feed too slow or too fast. Too fast and you might break a bit and too slow may "work harden" the material you are drilling. Use a sharp bit. Cobalt bits will last longer/drill more cases but are more expensive. Change bits just as soon as there is even a hint of it starting to dull. Failure to do this might result in a "wallered" hole or broken bit. If you do happen to break off a drill bit, and can't easily remove it, don't freak out! Don't make matters worse by trying to drill or dig it out. Mix a strong/concentrated citric acid solution and dump the case into it. After a week see if the remains of the bit will crumble, if not put it back in to soak for another week. After a couple of weeks the bit will have rusted enough where it will have pretty much dissolved. Once the remains of the bit are all gone put some oil in the hole and finish drilling. The citric acid will not harm the stainless steel used in our watch cases.

I have seen NDT dials and I can say they have almost same issues as MQ and Tonny's dial. I'm currently working on a custom dial which I hope turns out as I expect.

I'm relatively new here, so I apologize if this isn't the place to ask this... I would love to get the groups opinion on a good "kit" (or just collection of essentials) to start working on watches. Can someone guide me on which brand / model of tools to look at (and possible which to stay away from)? I have several Rolex and Panerai reps now and a few have issues. I want to be able to take the caseback off, movement out, and do basic work on the watches. I appreciate your time!

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Well this is why I buy phong cases. My 16800 my 16610 and my 5513 all have phong cases. They are amazing. Now if we can just get him to make a 16710 case we will be good. Sent from my SM-T670 using Tapatalk

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That's how it is on both of my cartels and my MBWs too.

Yeah, I came to the same conclusion and just approved the QC pics. They did send a better picture, but it still looked blurry. I think it must be some weird color shift thing with the camera. I can't wait to try it on mine and see if I get the same effect. It might be worthy of a write up on the Breitling Forum. It's good to hear from you.

The mbw dial relumed is really good. The mbw hands are better than yuki, compared to my gen tritium sub hands.The only thing is the blue lume, should be green.

I think you'll find there's a groove on the case back rather than the case itself. Pictures would help too.

RM today.

"I believe the feet position of the 1016 is different from the dj and pres." The dial foot position on 1530 base 1016 and DJ/OPD/subs etc are all the same. The 1530 base Prez dial (1803 etc) does not have dial feet but snaps on the main plate...the Prez movement plate does have dial foot holes just like any 1530 base movement. Here is a good picture of the back of a snap on 1803 dial: eBay item number 331133548081

Man, I had to go back and look at old emails and old PM's from back in 2010, when I built my 1665. I bought the dial from flex who is a member here, back in 2010. This is a dial that was one of two that Freddie looked at for his 1665 build. according to him it was a really close choice between the dial in his 1665 and this one. I suppose if it was a close second for Freddie, it is indeed a very nice dial. I believe that from and old PM conversation with Flex, this was an NDT dial, but I would have to ask him or Freddie to be sure. According to flex, these dials were "the rarest of the rare". What will seem strange to some, I bought this dial sight unseen, no photos, nothing, based on Freddie and Flex's descriptions!! At any rate the dial and all the rest of the components were sent up to Rob (Zeigmeister) who was the best of the best. Rob put the watch together for me. Sadly Rob left our ranks several years ago, retired and moved to and undisclosed location. He was the best and was and is sadly missed.

There were at least 3 different versions of those early Sub bezels (that I am aware of). If you search the gen sites, you will see. This was typical of Rolex sport watches in the 50s. My guess is Rolex either changed the design as production ran or the bezels were sourced from different suppliers, but that is only a guess.

@ Legend, your thoughts are fair, that's why i keep saying "supposed ETA". Let's say i bought it from showroom street dealer, they had hundreds of replicas at every price and quality, and i picked what they were selling for ETA, and looked to me the most accurate. The only watch i can really talk about is the Daytona RG, owning 2 SS gens i can compare to a good extend... and that's pretty damn good... Honestly, at this stage i struggle to believe that a TD with thousands of watches listed would have the time to deal with myself asking questions, details, price negotiation, emails back and forth... but i will give it a try soon... Thanks everybody for welcoming on-board

Hello and welcome! Firstly, I really doubt that most of what you got (daytonas sec@6 and AP ROOs sec@12) are ETA powered movements. ETA is a Swiss company that manufactures watch movements and the movements they produced are often named ETA-xxxx, where xxxx denotes a series of numbers to identify the movement. I daresay that for $350, what you are getting would be the Asian modified movements, altered to have the sec@6 and sec@12 respectively. Now to answer your question regarding the trusted dealers. Firstly, the dealers do not produce the watches. Most of them would source the same watch from the same factory. Second, buying from a trusted dealer does not automatically make the watch a problem free one. They are trusted because of the information they provide regarding the watches they sell (you would not for example, find ROOs with sec@12 and swiss ETA movements listed), and the fact they would communicate with the buyer to a reasonable extent, and get the orders delivered. In my opinion, buying from a trusted dealer has nothing to do with getting a better quality watch. You do however, get a better quality buying process. Understand and assimilate the difference here. I do not understand the rep industries in Turkey or Thailand, but chances are, you get a lot of reps of chinese origins in those markets as well. Price wise, they could be cheaper, but do not expect the street vendor holding their child in one hand and handing the watch you are interested in with the other to tell you about the movement and specifications of the watch. To them, it would be more a case of "see? Heavy heavy. Like the original Lolex. Good watch!" while flashing you a huckster's grin. So, I would like to say in brevity that buying from the trusted dealers here does not mean that you get watches with spanking new shiny ETA movements in them, ticking flawlessly when they reach you. But in most cases, you get reasonably accurate details about the watch you are getting on their sites, and you get pre-shipment pictures as confirmation, and you mostly receive the same watch you ordered. Where the trusted dealer sites leave gaps in the details of the watches, that is where experts and members in forums like RWG step forth to advise and help. Oh yes, speaking of which, RWG is a great place to be for anyone who loves their watches. Welcome, and I wish you a happy and fruitful stay here.

Some quick pics working with ceiling lights until I get my soft-boxes back. The 3646 is just a visitor and the 6152/1 is my latest purchase. Last pic is the 2 vintages laid down on a large photo (the cover of Volker's latest book "Vintage Panerai"). Tried to position them so they look part of the group.