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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/06/2016 in all areas

  1. I am a little confused. I just purchased a supposed DG3804B, it looks different to the 3804 that I purchased from Cousins a while back. But it looks the same as the supposed 2813 that was in my cartel 1655 GMT Explorer I purchased recently? Anyone know if there are any significant differences in these movements? As I understand, they are both 21,000 with no independant GMT hand setting and virtualy the same size. If anyone can shed some light on my confusion it would be apreciated
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  2. Hi gents, Want to share with you my 1016 build. It took a long way as I collected and chased parts for more than a year and a half. Great thanks to Rolojack for amazing advices and case reshaping! A bit of history.. I fell in love with early 1016's. Chapter ring..gilt dial..underline.. That's a dream unfortunately unachievable for now.. I made my first one 1016 2 years ago out of 16000 case, gen 1570 movement, Yukki dial and hands, Clark crystal, JMB bezel. That was okay for the first try, but nothing was right there.. This time I tried to make as close as possible full Gen Explorer. Specs: Gen 16014 case amazingly reshaped by Rolojack. Gen 16000 caseback Gen 1575 movement. Gen 1016 "Stern" Dial Gen Sub hands(they where sold to me as Explorer hands on VRM, minute hand shorter than should be..) Gen T22 Domed crystal. Gen Bezel(outer diameter is half mm smaller than should be..have no idea why, inner diameter is perfect to fit T22) Gen 78350 bracelet with 558B endlinks. Gen 600 crown Proper springbars to be added! Here are some pics: Please tell me what do you think guys! Thank you, BP Sent from Hell
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  3. as some of you may know I do actually like some of the invicta watches. I know alot here do not, but take a look at my newest one. It is a 45mm sub rep. full titanium case and bracelet. Very light and I think very nice looking. Personally I like the 45mm size on my wrist. Seiko NH35A movement and under $150
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  4. Hi, just 2 pics... IWC 5448-03 Gen vs. Rep! No text needed on the differences... and only +/- 19.301 USD apart; - Rep 199 USD - Gen 19.500 USD Dutchy Gen on the top:
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  5. Someone who does not know what he's talking about...
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  6. Vintage rollies and in particular 1016's got me into this game.... That's a great looking watch, I have the dome rather than the top hat too. I think Rolojack's work is the best and he is really easy to deal with. For such a simple looking watch it takes a lot of effort to get it right. Well done and have fun with it!
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  7. Beautiful build. That is a classic genken build that you can feel proud to wear. Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
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  8. It's a beautiful watch. I understand it's a long way to source all these gen parts. But the result is beautiful. Congrats ! My 6610 parts are waiting in a box. See your 1016 make me want to build it now. [emoji632]
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  9. Im not the biggest fan regarding 1016, but that is one b-e-a-utiful Watch. Wear it in good Health!
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  10. It looks good overall, specially endlinks, bracelet and crownguards. The other Sub "that overrides these flaws" is the classic 16610 from TC in the V6 version. At a later stage or if movement/stem problems develop on Your SA3135 You can always upgrade the datewheel overlay and have it well centered when going with a replacement TC 2824-2 or a Yuki-movement. Same goes for the crystal (replace with gen) and hands.
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  11. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I love it! I Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  12. This just back from Rolie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  13. Well, as said above, there's no really good starting for an 1675.. I have an cartel 1675 incoming and can shoot a few pics here if u want. The following parts will be added: - clarks 25-116 crystal - clarks bezel insert - 2mm gen spec springbars - raffles flat caseback Then complete case shaping, insert aging and drilling lug holes. On the way is an wso bezel assembly to get the clarks insert fit. I'm trying to get an aftermarket dial atm.. Cheers Phil -sent from my ipad using tapatalk Men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex watches Btw try to get to RA's (rolexaddict) 1675 thread.. Great infos in there.
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  14. I have a cartel '1655' (laser engraved 1655 between the lugs with Exp II dial) that is actually a 5513/1680 case with the crown guards made for a 6.0mm crown instead of a 7.0mm crown. It originally came with a swisseta 2836 with Asian made non adjustable GMT conversion. How to tell it is a 5513/1680 case? A 19/127 crystal fits the case and a 116 will not. The skirt of the crystal had been sanded down to lower it so it would not be too high. It had a 5513/1680 size bezel with GMT bezel insert so an oem spec GMT insert would not fit. Looks like they used what was handy sometimes. Also have a swisseta powered '1675' (1675 between the lugs) from a few years back with non adjustable 24H hand (same mvt as the Ex II above)...the one with 'oyster perpetual date' on the dial but I can not find it to see what the case looks like. Seems like they did not make this model for long so you do not see many now. I have a g-wine 1675 so when I find the swisseta 1675 I will compare them. The swiss movements used in these watches were good and the beat rate can be slowed down by swapping out 2836 escapement parts with 2846 parts and the non adjustable Asian 24H conversions were basically trouble free. You can also buy an Asian etaclone GMT on eBay to get the parts. Btw, all the watches I bought during this time had new swissetas in them, no gumbos, refurbs, mixer/matchers, clones etc. Gumbos = old and dirty, barely run. Lotta gumbos out there. Edit: Forgot to say about DG '21 jewel movements'...some versions of the 21 jewel DG movements have instant change dates (the date snaps over almost all at once, not a little at a time). The date flipper is the round part that can be seen through the dw cover plate at 9 o'clock on the dial side. You can tell what type it is by looking at the date flipper assembly...the quick change models have a flat top with a small hole with a pin in it and the slow change models have a top with a slotted hole with a pin in the slot. The parts will interchange but you need to change it out as a set to be safe...date flipper, date wheel, and dw index lever although I changed the date flipper assembly and index lever out on one yesterday leaving the dw that came with the movement and it seems to work all right. Be sure there is spring tension in both directions on the quick change date lever (the T shaped lever that mounts over a date cover plate screw hole)...it has a finger that rides against a small wheel that is turned by the stem/crown to quick set the date). This lever works against two springs and they are prone to jump out of place before the dw cover plate is installed. Do not insert the U shaped dw index lever spring until the cover plate is mounted...then stuff it through the slot in the plate with the index lever between two dw teeth to give more room making sure the closed end is against the screw head at the end of the slot when installed. Cover the immediate area over the U spring hole with plastic wrap and work through it in case the U spring jumps out.
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  15. Wow! So many spectacular gmts! This is mine, josh 1:1 case modded by my friend cjjoyce and pbdad, gen 70s dial supplied and installed by cjjoyce , gen xstal from vrm, gen red back insert from fleabay, hands from josh 1:1 painted by cjjoyce Silver date from cjjoyce installed by pbdad, wso bezel ring, and gen USA jubilee from fleabay!
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  16. The specs: Gen Mk 1 dial from Andrew Shear Gen case set from Yachtmaster here on RWG Gen Insert from VRM Gen C&I rivet off eBay DG3806 powered from Ofrei Hand set from Rafflestime Movement spacer from same Open 6 and 9 flat 3 overlay from Sneed Sweat and blood from Me At Work
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