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Here are my thoughts and some of the current crop of 126600 seadwellers. I’m by no means an expert, so these are my basic observations. I currently have 3 different 126600s. I bought the first cheaper version from BP when that was released. Obviously there were a number of issues with that version such as the wrong bracelet width, small font on the insert and the wrong pearl size, shape and height. I haven’t been fortunate enough to see a gen 126600 in the flesh, so my observations are based on comparisons with photos and videos of the gen which obviously doesn’t compare to seeing the real thing. I then bought the BP ‘best’ version when it was released. This addressed the biggest issues, particularly the bracelet width and bezel insert. The pearl on the bezel is lower like the gen but the profile doesn’t look exactly the same as the gen pearl to me. It looks more like a lowered version of a deepsea pearl. The font size and colour seems pretty good and the bezel action is smooth but not too slack, which is good. Recently I also bought the ARF version. For me this is the best version so far. The bezel insert looks particularly stunning. The font colour is lighter and looks much better in low light than the BP best version. The BP colour is lighter than noob v7 but the ARF is lighter than the BP. Also, the font is slightly larger on the ARF bezel but this seems correct when I’ve compared it to gen photos. The BP font is slightly larger than the font on the deepsea v7 but not as large as ARF. The Cyclops on the ARF is also slightly smaller than that on the BP and the magnification seems slightly less. It is true that the bezel teeth are sharper on the ARF compared to the BP and you can feel it when you turn it. On my particular ARF, the bezel action is the most disappointing part compared with the BP. The ARF has more of a rocking action when you press down on it and the action when turned is quite loose and sloppy. I’ve noticed it moving during general daily wear. The action on the BP is much firmer and it does not rock in the same way. This, however, may be just the watch I have. Other ARFs might not have this issue. Both bracelets feel and look good. I’m still in two minds about the 904L thing. At first glance there doesn’t seem to be a difference at all when you compare the 904L and the 316L. However, in certain lights, to me especially in low light, the 904L does seem to reflect the light with more ‘lustre’. I’m not sure if this is an actual difference or wishful thinking. Both the BP best and ARF looked good on the QC pics but on closer inspection once arrived, the cyclops is a tiny bit off being straight and the pearl is not absolutely dead centre on the BP. Everything is spot on on the ARF. There is a difference in the weight of the watches. All the weights are taken with 2 links removed from the bracelets. The original ‘cheap’ BP is 163g, BP ‘best’ is 175g and the ARF is 181g. I have to say that I’ve messed about with the BP cheap version. I swapped out the pearl for an old style one I had hanging around and I swapped the original insert for an old noob deepsea one I had. The insert fit perfectly but it is about half the thickness of the 126600 insert, so it now sits lower down in the bezel a fraction. In all the photos the original cheap BP version is BP1 and it has the white deepsea insert, not its original. Both the BP best and the ARF are great watches but the bezel insert on the ARF is the thing that clinches it for me.

I wanted too add a few things here. From the orig. post, the OP is talking about the rocking action on the bezel of the ARF when pushed down. This is very normal on a REAL Rolex. That is why the clicks are on springs. It is made so when downward pressure is made on the bezel it is easier to rotate and the locking click stops it from going back, even though on a real 116610 there still is a slight back movement. On the pre ceramic versions rolex put the tension gasket in to perform this action, so when you would push down the tension gasket released pressure and you could rotate it easier. Anyone who builds rolexes or reps knows that the tension washer sucks if not perfect. If it is off at all it will lock your bezel and you wont be able to move it at all. This is why I use Rolex parts, from crystal ring to bezel to tension washer and insert. Back to the ARF. The sharpness of the ARF bezel can be taken care of by a simple mod. If you want them duller then make them duller. Take pics of a real one and work the bezel teeth to look like the real one. Where jeweler magnifying shades and go too town. I am very close to cancelling my order of the real 126600. Only thing stopping me is the possibility of price increase. But I dont think it will be there. History would show it would be but China has gotten so good at Cloning a Rolex that I dont think 40 years from now that this watch will be like a 60 red sub. Why because there will be so many clones by that point and probably undetectable. Think about this hobby and how it has grown in the past 5 years! Hell I can take a noob case and build a perfectly all Rolex 116610LN minus the mid case! Think when they use 904L and get the rehaut engraving down. Then the bracelet! They will use 904 and have that down. So when my 126600 come in I will most likely flip it ASAP. That is the only reason I am letting them have my deposit. LOL. I am so close to ordering the ARF and just modding the crap out of it. I have the ETA2824 for it already. I was hopping for one too pop up on M2M over at RWI but it has been down. The ARF so far was the closest I have seen. There is another thread over at RWI where we are talking about the dial. When I went and ordered it I looked at the Rolexes Display watch and didn't notice if it had a matted dial. I was wearing my sub and it looked extremely similar to my 116610LN dial. But the red popped out. Very RED. But I have seen pics now in out side videos and pictures, where it has a matted look. So I am actually thinking of going back to NYC for a day and looking at the display again and see if they allow me too take a picture of it. I am dying to know. I dont know anyone who has the real one. But I know the sea dweller ceramic does have a matted effect on the dial so maybe they did this one the same. So these are the reasons I am not buying the ARF yet. The movement with a new ETA will last for years. The dial, if I can get it correct, amazing. I will mod the bezel to be what I want it too be. I want the 904L just for the difference in feeling of the bands. Extremely excited about how far our hobby has come in the last few years and cant wait for the future.

Not too long hopefully (although far too long when you’re waiting!). Toro is EU so if he has stock and you’re EU then hopefully a week or so from okaying the QC photos.

Yesterday the yuki 7206 rivet arrived: like it! Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G928F met Tapatalk

Mine says hello.. Stunning piece Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

well done dude !!! I'm already owning SD ARF and it's an amazing piece !!!

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Poor amp and beat error, bring the beat error down see if the Amp goes up which they should. If you don't get at least 275 deg amp it is definitely time for a service NOW.

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Rahr! This is where I get my smiles per mile.

We can’t have such a nice Panerai thread without Anonimo representing.

Great idea!! I'll put in the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Good Lord she's a looker but maybe a bit off in color.

Nothing can be done over the internet. LOL Try to remove the balance and dip in one clean solution It may help If not then you need service Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Movement service will do Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Or hairspring sticks together Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My guess is that it’s magnetized. Sudden and extreme positive rate increases are almost always magnetism.

A Rolex Sub ceramic date is a 116610, btw. 114060 is a no date.

Rubberclad

Panda

Waterproof and used as intended in Gran Canaria Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk

Panda