highoeyazmuhudee

this is why ive decided to go with the 5513... no date font, no date alignment issues, and no fugly cyclops

had it been explicitly titled 703 or 702 you would have paid 10X more.

im working on some MBK cgs right now, the inside needs some working, take it down a bit and square it against the base. if youve never done it before you will make a mess of it and *think* it looks good. practice on a junker or outsource it. check out lots of pics because there is also a lot of variation. dont forget to observe the way it looks and relates from all angles. if possible find a store with the gen for sale, hold it and study it.

problem with a correct gen insert is the numbers advance in reverse compared to the ETA. but thats not to say a gen datewheel wont fit with some modding... just find one with the numbers that are in the correct orientation, theyre out there, but not for the subs, open 6s too. as for the 703 which coronet did you get? if you found a vintage fat coronet for that price thats outstanding, if in good condition. if its the modern the coronet its incorrect to the period and i wouldnt use it.

would a gen 14060 dial fit a noob case? prob not...right? thatd be a good combo right there, and our talented mr JMB could fix the issue with the case holes.

cant wait to see the finished result

AD charges $250-300 US to service an ETA. there are some great rates on this forum. most ive been quoted here was $150 for a service and regulation.

dont put any kind of glue near the inside of your watch, even hypo. double sided 3m scrapbooking tape works great, or if youre handy you can use a pinvise to create new holes in the movement plate, i really only suggest the latter if its a gen dial and you have plans possibly in the future of switching to a gen calibre

the current MBK 16610 are the 1:1 Taiwan cases. gone are the polex markings on this modern sub. its totally different than 3 years ago. i have one on order and checked out the sample case in BKK. when i ll actually get my order is an entirely different story altogether. TJ the mbk had a short run of A serial 16610 cases with lug holes likely your 16610s with holes are TWB

it might be some time before any mbk watches show up. whats wrong with BKs current Taiwan case? in all honesty the MBK 16610 is probably the same case

are those stock noobmariner hands?

whatd the cgs look like before?

i recommend every one building a vintage find a store with gen vintage pieces and check it out. once you see it in 3d the way it translates in photos makes absolute sense and you can tell where youre at. there is also much variation between shapes and thickness but every rep ive seen is still too thick at the base youre cg base is still too wide, square it a bit more and make the end taper off stronger. check the side profile making sure it still follows a crescent contour so it doesnt look like the top has been worked but the bottom not... so hard to explain on 'paper'

should you tell him? no, ok, i ll tell him. eurotimez is gone man. like a fart in the wind.

thats a lot of chamfer

perfect, absolutely perfect.

+1 would love to see some updates!

i draw the line at shoes, seriously dont want to mess up your feet with bad soles. probably cosmetics and cologne as well if i actually bought that stuff.

cant go wrong with a bottle of Penfolds

after traveling long hours on an airplane realizing exactly how loud a jet engine is and maxing out the volume on my ipod yet still not hearing the subtitles in what im listening to and having my ears ringing for days later i bought some Klipsch Image S4 s. theyre noise isolation with silicone fitting ear buds in three sizes. klipsch is the only manufacturer to hold the patent to make ear buds oval shaped where as ever other manufacturer has to make them round so they fit right in the ear canal and im on a 15hour flight im listening to stuff at 1/4 of what i was previously. the bass is also great for earbuds and they come with a neat metal travel tin. they can be had for about $100 tax in

a comparison was done with WO bars a few months back and gen they are identical, despite the hatred for mr slimeball i ordered them from him and they seem decent enough, even surviving many reinstalls. as for drilling lug holes its a piece of cake with the proper vise and a drill press. i use 1.25mm carbide bits with a 1/8 shank 1.3mm looks too lare and 1.20 wont allow the pin to poke through if its not perfectly straight, 1.25 seems to allow such clearance while remaining true to the original pin hole. for the bracelet and end links i use a pin vise and a 5/64 bit working the bit through the existing hole by hand via the pin vise, never had a problem with this method, the hardest part for me is re polishing the lugs back to factory shine, its more of an art. one thing ive noticed on gens vs our reps is that the springbars poke out of the holes like a little button, im assuming this is from polishing over and over again wearing down the case? the setup takes the longest time, dont rush that part, use 3in1 oil slowly work through the case, take your time, expect to break a bit every 3-5 holes the end result is worth it

is the fast beat movement even correct for this model?

did you bump the regulator or beat error lever? did some debris enter the movement?

for me its not that other people know any better, because all the people i've met do not. its that i know better, in a way im hoping to fool my self by getting my watch to a point where i cant even tell. once ive done that then ive truly achieved a perfect replica. with my franken 5513 im getting close, just need to get the bracelet sorted.

get some more angles, cgs can tell need working even from that resolution.