automatico

"However, as it is with this hobby, do not expect the actual watch to be a mechanical marvel. Nearly everything I have purchased in the last two years has had some major mechanical flaw. This is not unique to any one dealer. QC is a joke. I would say one in five reps will arrive at your door, need nothing, and operate trouble free for more than a year. You basically need to be an amateur watch maker/repairer, or know someone who can service or fix the gremlins in these replicas. NOOB, ARF, an BP have terrible insides." That is the unvarnished truth if I ever saw it! If I could not hack around on/in these heirlooms, I would not be able to participate in this Esteemed Hobby of Royalty. ...and Knaves.

"...I have two Adrian’s brevet crowns and even the correct tap but i am not good enough with metal works (yet) to redrill and re-tap the tube hole in the case. And where I live I cannot find anyone to do the job for me." Having the correct tap is one third of the battle. My last case tube drill/tap job was drilling and tapping a JMB '1016' case from 5.3mm case tube size threads to standard 6.0mm size threads. Standard 6.0mm and 7.0mm (twin/triplock) case tube threads are 3.0mm diameter by .35mm pitch and take a 2.5mm drill bit. I do not have specs on 8mm case tubes. The next third is drilling the hole in the case to the right size before tapping it. Look up the metric or number size drill bit to use for the tap size you have and buy a few bits. Carbide is best but high speed steel (aka HSS) bits will work if you keep them lubed while drilling. Since the case tube hole is already drilled in the case before you re-drill the hole, the new hole will almost always be straight. I underlined almost because things can go wrong. I use a small milling machine with a homemade bracket to hold the case while drilling spring bar and case tube holes to size but a small low cost table mount type drill press will work just fine. My small drill press was $49USD on sale and I use it for all kinds of small jobs. The small milling machine is not necessary but since I have it, I use it and besides, it is inside where it is warm in the winter and the drill press is out in the garage. The last third is very critical because the tap has to be started straight in the hole or it can get in a bind and break or not cut good threads...this is usually the hardest part of the whole operation. So...what to do? After you locate the proper drill bits, practice drill a few holes in a spare steel watch case, piece of steel strap metal etc about 3mm or 4mm thick and tap the threads to get a feel for it. This will demonstrate how easy it is to start a tap out of true and how to keep it straight. I will admit it is not easy but after a few practice runs you will be able to tell if the tap is starting straight or not by the force needed to turn it to cut the threads. Keep the tap lubricated and blow or flush the metal chips out every half turn or so. I flush the chips out with WD 40 etc in a spray can. After the hole is most of the way tapped you can remove the tap and clean the threads and tap before finishing it up but if you remove the tap before it cuts a few good threads, it will be hard to get it started. Very hard sometimes. Tips: I use a pin vise to start the tap because it is easier to 'eyeball' the trueness of a pin vice than a T handle tap wrench. Once the threads are started you can change over to a T handle if you want to. After you drill the case tube hole you can 'cheat' when starting the tap if you mount the tap in the drill chuck and lower it very lightly into the case and turn it by hand (power off) to get it started straight. This only works if you have a precision case mounting set-up and a good drill press with no slop in the drill's spindle bearings etc. Do not try this at first on a case, try it on scrap metal etc. Practice, practice, practice with a little patience added is the key. Good luck!

"If you’re on a budget I’d use campfuel / (Coleman’s), I’d never use acetone it’s a bad idea." Yep, good advice imho. Coleman camp fuel, Zippo/Ronsonol lighter fluid etc is all the same basic stuff (naptha), you can also buy naptha in gallon cans at Home Depot, hardware stores etc. Most brand name watch rinses are naptha solutions except it might be filtered a bit more. Most commercial watch cleaning solutions are made out of finely filtered 'Stoddard Solvent' aka mineral spirits/paint thinner with a few additives...very few probably. Some brake cleaners will work too, especially the older types with tetrachloroethylene. It is very noxious stuff though and goes by the common name 'dry cleaning fluid'. Watch mechanics call it 'One Dip' or hairspring cleaner. Acetone is not too hot for watch parts...or your bright red fingernails. What Is Stoddard Solvent (questionfun.com) Zippo fluid is better !!! Zippo vs Ronsonal - YouTube

Bad news. The IRS is demanding another pound of flesh. TimeZone : Public Forum » IRS Form 1099-K This will not be good for people who sell knickknacks on eBay and many other online outlets. Example: If you sell a watch online for $2000, get paid by pay pal etc, now you get a 1099 for the sale and you will owe tax on the profit realized on sales totaling over $600 per year. If you lost $$ on the deal, you will have to prove you lost $$ by providing proof of the purchase price, receipts for any work/parts on the watch etc. If you get audited and end up butting heads with a Colonoscope weilding IRS Dildo who would not know a Vacheron from a Velamint...they may demand tax on the total sale price if you can not provide proof of a loss. Who knows what they might do? Gummit Idiots are forcing more and more citizens into an ever-growing Underground Economy. I rest my case.

Super Fine military watch project! I have a couple mil watches in my project drawer, one being an issued Hamilton that came with a Durowe (German) 7 jewel movement in a 33/34mm case. Finally found a 17 jewel Durowe movement to go in it but never finished it. Quite a few USA issued mil watches had 7 jewel movements in the late 1970s/early 1980s before they went to quartz. Here is a 7 jewel Hamilton exactly like mine with the red plastic balance 'jewel'... 1978 Hamilton H3 Military MIL-W-46374B - Dial & Bezel (dialandbezel.com)

"It has been 30+ years since the last time I saw a NOS gen case or dial for sale. Do the math." Yeah, not many around for sure. What I was getting at are 'refurbished' cases that appear to be in maybe 85% to 90% condition with excellent dials etc. This is where most of the deception will take place imho. I used a nos case/watch compared to a super pro refurb as an example of how good a highly accurate and detailed replica case could be. I believe a refurbished or replica case could be made as good as needed, all the way from average to nos condition using modern restoration techniques and a high level of skill. Same goes for modifying a high grade replica case. Nos... Have two nos rolex from the 1970s/1980s...6430 Speedking, 6694 OD, and a 'like new' 1603 DJ. Bought them new from AD, never wore the first two, wore the DJ a few times. Also have three nos 1016 dials...2 tritium, one Luminova signed T<25 and a lot of other nos parts left from earlier days in the hobby...dials, clasps, hands, bracelets etc, one nos no hack 1575, auto-wind parts, crowns etc. Plus a few cases that would be considered 90%+. No 55xx, GMT etc. I will admit to being a little bit crazy though.

Here are a few things I have wondered about for years, ever since the 'top of the line' replica vintage rolex cases came upon the scene 20+ years ago and the art of laser welding cases has become a welcomed/detested fact of the collector's life: Q1...How could anyone (including 'rolexperts and purists') be able to tell a new or 'like new' high grade replica vintage rlx case from a new or like new original case IF the case shape is 'right on the money' and the case back stampings and letters/numbers between the lugs are exactly the same as OEM and match the assumed year of production? A1...My answer is no one could really tell for sure. Q2...Why is that? A2...Because I have seen some cases that have fooled everyone who has examined them, and this includes some highly ranked 'experts'. This was quite a few years ago btw. Something else...I have seen '444' replacement cases called out as being Fake! and who really knows if no 'proof' of it being genuine is provided? Maybe they are, maybe they are not. Q3...Why would a 'dedicated, highly skilled forger' not just buy the best replica case they could get and detail it to match an OEM case using serial numbers from a damaged original case? A3...They have most likely been doing it for years. Q4...Why would I say that? A4...See my first answer above. Q5...Why is it when a 'refurbished' case may in reality have been a rotted out piece of junk is considered to be 'correct and genuine'? A5...Because they are 'purists' and if the case in question is assumed to be more than 50% 'original virgin material'... it's just Fine and Dandy. The answer above is just a guess of course but from what I have seen and read, most of the laser welded aka 'refurbished' cases are accepted by the 'rolexperts/purists' as being Ok. All the above is the reason why I can be Ok with MBK/DW/Yuki/IG44/JKF cases. I wonder why I wonder.

To: JSebWC Nice Toots! amc

I look back at the $2500+ Beanie Babies and $5000 Swatch watch fiascos...and have a laugh. I have seen this before but I would still pay full retail plus tax for a pair of gray/black Swatch-O-Mega Moonies. Most of us probably would. But not $7500. Both still up 3-26-22... ULTRA RARE Collectors Princess Diana TY Beanie Baby Bear 1997 Retired. Condition NEW...$2499.99, Free shipping. eBay 294738764879 Ty Beanie Baby ~ PRINCESS the Diana Purple Bear from 1997 ~RARE & RETIRED! MINT! Condition NEW...Buy It Now $35 plus $5.20 shipping. eBay 134066286172 In the beginning, 1985/86 Swatch Keith Harings were $5K+. Now $300 to $500 if you search them out.

Two Quartz = Half a Gallon. Both were given to me free needing batts. Two batts and two straps later and they are Alive! Imho Seiko Kinetics are an answer to a question never asked. They are tough as nails though. Always liked the Cit-Eco Min-Reps, a classy design and the Campanola models are first class...imho. The Campanolas are hand assembled. Retro-Graph and Rep-O-Graph... Motor Time Drift Pro-Am 'retro-graph' with Seiko Mecha-quartz movement. Flat MG crystal swapped out for acrylic domed crystal to give it more 'retro'. Cushion shaped 42mm case, plastic crystal, black 22mm ZRC strap...a cool flashback to the 1970s. 'Rep-o-Graph' is from 10 or 12 years back with Seagull ST 19. Sooner or later, you'll realize a $50 watch and a $10,000 watch both do the same thing.

"In conclusion it is a great project movement for any other project!" Agree! I put one in a bubbleback replica years ago and it ran fine for many years. It still runs but it's past due for c/o. I bought the watch on Yahoo! auctions in the late 1990s with a rusty ETA of some sort in it.

Funny you should mention the ETA 2452, I've been going through ETA 245x watchjunk putting a couple together for projects. Hamilton used them in Thin-O-Matics in place of the Buren micro-rotor movement sometimes. I call the ETA models Fat-O-Matics. Ham ETA Fat-O-Matic date model etc... Needed a 40 tooth hour wheel, 2879 parts were a no go (2452 on lower left). Guy brought a BTM dial in (not the dial in the pic) and wanted a running watch made out of it. Just the dial. No kiddin'. I guess it beats only the sweep second hand. The BTM in the pic is a mock-up to make a movement holder. Adjusted 24xx were used in a few Ball Trainmasters. Leftovers... Spade style BTM ETA RR hands are extremely hard to find, I am using H/M hands from a small pocket watch that had an ISA 1198 quartz movement. The ISA hands are pretty close to ETA 245x sizes. Example of spade H/M hands...

"Definitely miss my 5513." I know what you mean. It does not matter if you and I had a favorite genuine watch or a favorite replica that we sold/traded...a miss is a miss. I sold or traded away a lot of genuine rolex watches over the years that were not worth much at the time but are HOT! now. No doubt I should have kept them all but everyone has 100% hindsight. Two examples... 1...Have owned probably a dozen 5500 AK in the past and they were going for $500 to $700 when I had them. If I could make a few $$ on one, it was gone. Look at them now...empty cases are going for $500+. 2...I stuck a replica '16003' DJ together that originally had blind lug holes, sapphire crystal, and fluted bezel. I drilled the lug holes all the way through the case, put a genuine engine turned bezel with aftmkt acrylic crystal and replica 'blackout' dial on it and it became a favorite replica. I traded it away and years later got it back...the guy I traded it to never wore it so he gave the watch back for free. It is basically worthless but I wanted it back because I missed it. Am I crazy? I am crazy. Rolex Wristies thread - Page 141 - The Rolex Area - RWG Times (and prices) have changed a lot and now I am left hanging on to a cigar box full of 'Favorite Replicas' that I would miss if they were gone. It definitely is a crazy world! Btw, some of my favorite replicas came from NYC back when everyone said all you could find in NYC were 'Canal Street Specials'. Not so if you 'knew a guy'.

From... 3-10-2022 I have some 'obsolete' 55xx cases from a few different suppliers and here are the suppliers and approximate dates purchased...DW (2011), MBK (2012), Yuki (2009 and 2012), IG44 (2012), and JKF (2017). The best for the $$ in descending order when I bought them imho are Yuki, IG44, MBK, DW, JKF and all except JKF are no longer selling watches or cases. Never had a Vietnam case that I know of. Yuki?? Maybe yes, maybe no. They had to be ordered with a 4 to 6 week delay and I never heard where they came from. All these cases have a few flaws and the Yuki cases (5512, 5513) are probably the best of all the cases I have. Members have reported problems with earlier Yuki cases but mine are fine. DW cases are pretty good and all are 1680 spec inside and this means they need a 26.5mm dial and either a rlx 1525, 1565, 1575 date movement or ETA 2836/46 type movement. The case sides are slightly rounded and not flat like OEM but this is good if you want the watch to look polished/aged. The engraving/stamping ranges from very good engraving to ratty engraving to laser etching to none at all. Case backs also come with two thread diameters (one OEM spec, one smaller) but this is Ok unless you want to exchange case backs. The case necks are a hair too small on all my DW cases so this must be an across the board defect/problem. You just have to dig through aftmkt crystals until you find one that fits. They also have 'spring wire' rotating bezels so you will need a bezel kit (crystal clamp ring, tension shim, rotating bezel, bezel insert), I used Clark kits. MBK cases were the 'cheapo choice' for higher grade projects but they have almost disappeared from the scene, probably because no one wants to sell theirs as replacing them with something of equivalent quality is expensive now. There is a LOT of info about them on the forum. OEM crystals and case tubes fit fine, at least all of mine did. All my MBK cases are made for a rlx 1525, 1565, 1575 date movement or ETA 2836/46 type movement and all are made for 26.0mm dials. You can make a good 5512/13 but the stem has to be centered in the case tube when using a rolex 15xx movement by using a date movement without the date works. There is enough metal to enlarge the dial opening to accept a 26.5mm dial for a 1680 project. You can find the ins and outs about all this on the rlx forum. Yuki cases were the top of the line starting out because they were just about all there was at the time besides 'Phong' (Jewelry & Watch) and his cases were much higher $$. Yuki 55xx cases had case tube thread problems starting out and this really did a lot of harm to their brand but they made improvements and sold them for a few years with very few complaints. I traded into an early '1680' Yuki case and it was fine but some buyers had problems. IG44 had fine dials and very good cases but their offerings were limited because IG44 could be hard to get in touch with. I have a '1680' case and it is very good but I have not seen one for sale in years although you might see a dial now and then. JKF cases are fine for ETA/Miyota clone projects imho but it seems some sellers are not selling 'genuine' JKF watches. Who knows? My JKF case is Ok but the lug holes are a bit too high on the lugs and this is not good when the holes are enlarged to accept OEM spec spring bars. It is on spec for crystals and case tubes. If you get an actual JKF case, they are a bargain in today's market. Things to look for imho: 1...OEM spec case neck and case tube threads. Hard to tell until you get the case though. 2...Holes in lugs with room above and below so the holes will not be too close to an edge if they need to be enlarged. This is hit or miss because the watch or case you get may not match the one in pictures. 3...A groove machined inside the case for case screws and/or case clamps. 4...Crown location not too high or low. This does not bother me very much but it shows. 'Repexperts' will spot it every time. 'Genuine Rolexperts' probably not. If any of this bothers you...wear a long sleeve shirt. Ha!

"Where can I buy this case?" I have some 'obsolete' 55xx cases from a few different suppliers and here are the suppliers and approximate dates purchased...DW (2011), MBK (2012), Yuki (2009 and 2012), IG44 (2012), and JKF (2017). The best for the $$ in descending order when I bought them imho are Yuki, IG44, MBK, DW, JKF and all except JKF are no longer selling watches or cases. Never had a Vietnam case that I know of. Yuki?? Maybe yes, maybe no. They had to be ordered with a 4 to 6 week delay and I never heard where they came from. All these cases have a few flaws and the Yuki cases (5512, 5513) are probably the best of all the cases I have. Members have reported problems with earlier Yuki cases but mine are fine. DW cases are pretty good and all are 1680 spec inside and this means they need a 26.5mm dial and either a rlx 1525, 1565, 1575 date movement or ETA 2836/46 type movement. The case sides are slightly rounded and not flat like OEM but this is good if you want the watch to look polished/aged. The engraving/stamping ranges from very good engraving to ratty engraving to laser etching to none at all. Case backs also come with two thread diameters (one OEM spec, one smaller) but this is Ok unless you want to exchange case backs. The case necks are a hair too small on all my DW cases so this must be an across the board defect/problem. You just have to dig through aftmkt crystals until you find one that fits. They also have 'spring wire' rotating bezels so you will need a bezel kit (crystal clamp ring, tension shim, rotating bezel, bezel insert), I used Clark kits. MBK cases were the 'cheapo choice' for higher grade projects but they have almost disappeared from the scene, probably because no one wants to sell theirs as replacing them with something of equivalent quality is expensive now. There is a LOT of info about them on the forum. OEM crystals and case tubes fit fine, at least all of mine did. All my MBK cases are made for a rlx 1525, 1565, 1575 date movement or ETA 2836/46 type movement and all are made for 26.0mm dials. You can make a good 5512/13 but the stem has to be centered in the case tube. There is enough metal to enlarge the dial opening to accept a 26.5mm dial for a 1680 project. You can find the ins and outs about all this on the rlx forum. Yuki cases were the top of the line starting out because they were just about all there was at the time besides 'Phong' (Jewelry & Watch) and his cases were much higher $$. Yuki 55xx cases had case tube thread problems starting out and this really did a lot of harm to their brand but they made improvements and sold them for a few years with very few complaints. I traded into an early '1680' Yuki case and it was fine but some buyers had problems. IG44 had fine dials and very good cases but their offerings were limited because IG44 could be hard to get in touch with. I have a '1680' case and it is very good but I have not seen one for sale in years although you might see a dial now and then. JKF cases are fine for ETA/Miyota clone projects imho but it seems some sellers are not selling 'genuine' JKF watches. Who knows? My JKF case is Ok but the lug holes are a bit too high on the lugs and this is not good when the holes are enlarged to accept OEM spec spring bars. It is on spec for crystals and case tubes. If you get an actual JKF case, they are a bargain in today's market. Things to look for imho: 1...OEM spec case neck and case tube threads. Hard to tell until you get the case though. 2...Holes in lugs with room above and below so the holes will not be too close to an edge if they need to be enlarged. This is hit or miss because the watch or case you get may not match the one in pictures. 3...A groove machined inside the case for case screws and/or case clamps. 4...Crown location not too high or low. This does not bother me very much but it shows. 'Repexperts' will spot it every time. 'Genuine Rolexperts' probably not. If any of this bothers you...wear a long sleeve shirt. Ha! Happy Hunting!

NOS Marathon 'CCG/SAR'... A real 'tool watch'... Canadian Coast Guard SAR (search and rescue) aka CSAR watch made by HoroSwiss Watch Co Switzerland for Marathon. Bead blasted 316L, 200MWR tested, ETA 2824-2, dive extension, thick MG crystal, composite bezel, 'Maraglow' lume, double O ring nsd crown, screw back. This model is long out of production making them very hard to find, especially NOS. Lucky me! 'Maraglow' is the Marathon name for Super Luminova, still used in some models. Here is a current model with H3 lume tubes: Marathon CSAR, Medium Diver, & USMC Navigator Watches Team Review | Page 2 of 3 | aBlogtoWatch Info on contract watches similar to mine: Marathon Coast Guard (broadarrow.net)

Explorer 39... Originally came with etaclone, now has new swisseta 2836-2. Unworn except for pics. Specks are on the outside of the crystal.

Like the old boxer said... "Dat's a worka art." ...just before he hit the mat. 'NOS' SD from 8 or 10 years back (pics taken today)... Smiley Face... One day late ahead and a dollar short... Link and Screw, (R Rated, not X)... HEV...

"If you can wear yellow gold you should definitely fit that dial into a case, preferably (but not mandatorily) gen-powered." I have an 18K replica DJ/Prez case but the dial opening is too big for an oem spec DJ dial and the dial falls through. I had a slightly larger Bulova dial refinished as a 'California Dial' but it is also hair too small and just barely passes through the dial opening in the case and that is not good. I have gone back and forth on this project for years and maybe it is time to come up with a solution. I wanted to use the malachite dial and it is simply too small but the Bulova dial OD being the same as the dial opening might make it easier to use. Maybe I could cement the Cal dial to a thin metal disc (thin blank dial) that will fit properly inside the case and not fall through so it would mount the Cal dial in the dial opening. If the stem lines up Ok this might be a way to finish it but the movement would need a slightly longer CP etc so I would have to go with an ETA 28xx and not the Bulova 11BLACD that goes with the dial. The dial opening in the case is 28.5mm, an oem DJ dial is 27.9mm, and the Bulova Cal dial is 28.5mm so a 29.5mm dial blank cemented to the Cal dial would work. The Cal dial... The case... This being the 'Wristies' section, here is a wristie... From around 2015 with DG 3804, hollow mid link bracelet, sapphire etc.

Woof! Had this thing for 15+ years, still 'nos' wrapped in a thin styrofoam strip,.. Blasted stainless steel case, DG auto. Lucien Piccard 'Four Barrel' automatic... This watch came in a watch order with no explanation...100% replica no doubt. Not a very good picture.

Omega 'bumper' automatic from the 1950s... Omega automatics and greatest hits timeline: 1952: Launch of OMEGA Constellation Chronometer Watch | OMEGA EN® (omegawatches.com)

"...I have only ever seen 1 other "Mystery" DJ in the wild --" It might be a Black Onyx dial. Here are images of a few: rolex datejust black onyx dials - Bing images The DJ with the light in its eye is 100% replica with a painted dial and I still have a malachite dial with no markers for 36mm QS DJ...but no watch, it was for an 18K DJ but like a dummy I sold it. More malachite dials... rolex malachite datejust dial images - Bing images

Saul Marantz would be proud! Btw... Cool watch!

I never could bring myself to scrap a gold watch unless the case was damaged or it was an 'oinion skin' no name cheapie aka 'onion skinner'. 'Onion skin' = very thin, flimsy case, old 'Chronographe Suisse' models for instance. They were so thin they had a brass or pot metal 'safety back' under the super thin gold case back to keep it from caving in and if you wore one real tight on the wrist the lugs could bend or break off. A few Goldies... E. Gubelin auto chronometer in 18K from the 1960s. Some usual suspects... All 14K. The second and third watches from the left are from the 1930s/1940s and the others are from the 1950s/1960s. The Buren Grand Prix is old enough to have soldered strap bars. It was made for a one piece strap or a two piece strap. A two piece strap is stitched together on the watch. A 14K American Waltham from the 1890s. Beautiful case engraving... The date is hand engraved to 'Emily' on her 21st birthday inside the back cover... Suspects awaiting trial... 2-7-22 Note...The two black dial watches at the bottom center are 'Boy size' Crotons. They are noteworthy because only the top case (aka bezel) is solid 10K gold and the screw on case back is stainless steel, there used to be a lot of watches made like this. I am scrapping a Pierce 10K top case watch similar to the Crotons because someone used a Speidel Twistoflex bracelet on it and the spring loaded ends chewed the lugs up. The Pierce 10K gold case top weighs 9.3 grams. That much 10K gold will scrap today for about $180 at a 'friendly' jewelry store = about 80% of today's ($1807 troz) full gold price of $225 for 9.3 grams. 'Unfriendly' pawn shops etc usually pay 40% to 60%. The Pierce and both Crotons have 17 jewel A. Schild 970 manual wind movements.

Two more 'Stray Mutts'. Actually, it is only one Stray Mutt... ...with two faces. The 'front' side... The 'back' side... One watch with a dial on each side, two movements, and a 'flip-it-over' two sided strap. The hex crown sets the silver dial and the button crown sets the black dial. All stainless steel, 35mm wide not including crowns by 45mm long lug tip to tip. Remove the screws and the silver dial/movement comes out of the case in one piece to r/r batteries. NOS, 12 or 15 years old. It is very well made and I have never seen one anywhere else. This guy says it best... Lou Christie - Two Faces Have I - YouTube