alligoat

It would be nice if you really got a Swiss eta, but chances are it's an Asian 2836-2. And it should be beating at 8 bps- 28,800/hr. LOL, I ended up with an Asian 2836-2 that was beating at 6 bps- it would be good for a vintage Rolex build if I could get it serviced and up and running again.

Looks good to me. I'd just wear it and enjoy- I can't see anyone calling you out unless it's on the basis of all Rolexes are fakes!

Here's a 6538 that I found on the net- it's also got deep rehaut

I've never seen an insert for a 1680 with a metal surround at the pearl, so I don't think it's genuine, but I could be wrong. Those Rolex envelopes are a dime a dozen BTW. I do have that insert for a gold/black dialed 1680 with an all acrylic pearl- picked it up for a song 5 years ago. I was thinking about building a TT 1680- which by the way is a fantasy model- Rolex never sold a TT 1680!

Ouch! The dial is all wrong- the SCOC should be OCC. But you can still call it a 1016!

Rehaut on the Silix case may be a tad too deep for the 6538, but it looks like it could be fine for a 5510 build-

Certainly you could try going to a Rolex AD. Or you could try these aftermarket spring bars from WSE http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-SPRING-BAR-ROLEX-WATCH-STRAP-BAND-MEN-OLD-DATE-19MM-DOUBLE-SHOULDER-PART-/160926837355?hash=item2577fcaa6b Rolex Date and Datejust pins are going to be thinner than the Sub spring bars- maybe 1.8mm thick. I just hate to think what Rolex would charge- hope it's not too outrageous! Also, you might check Clark's- Nostalgia-2000- on ebay. http://www.watchmaterial.com/rolex-generic-spring-bars-sp-9280/ On second thought- you can't really walk into a Rolex AD if you're building a franken- what if they want to see the watch to sell you the spring bars? Here's bars from Watchmaterial.

This is the 1655 case from Josh- shaped and lugholes drilled dial from Ingod44- too bad he's gome hands from rafflestime including small GMT hand bezel from Clarks, insert was just lying around

Beautiful Watch!

It's got a pie-pan dial, so like Matt says, maybe he plated the case and added the diamond bezel. even if it had a 1570 movement in there, I wouldn't figure it's worth $4K. 1550 GP Date watches run around $1,500 to $2K- but alas no diamond bezel

What did Paul post? MBW 6538s are probably few and far between these days- you might get lucky and pick one up in a M2M deal. But they weren't that accurate anyway. A lot of people have built decent 6538s with the Silix case and a good dial. Others have spent more money and gone the Phong case route and even put 1030 movements in there. You might do a search and see what you can find. The ones I like the most are the ones where people put them together for $500-600 or so and have a nice watch.

Nice job photon! You've done an excellent job and I love how you corrected the Phong dial- good work.

Nice- it looks well worn.

The C33419 tube will work with a 703 crown.

send him an email at trevor123bobo@gmail.com

Yep, that's too much to pay for a movement.

They were referred to as a BP case over on another forum, so it's not gen-like construction, but with the 9015 they should make an excellent beater. And it's priced at half of a TC. Bezel insert is older style with the flat 4 in 40, but the crown guards look good and if the lume is good, it would be nice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171641398405?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'd get that 1030 serviced and see how that works out for you first. If after the watch is serviced and it's in good shape, then get on a regular maintenance schedule and get it serviced every 5-6 years. At that point it should last a long time. From the sounds of it- poor amplitude and isochronism- I'd think a service is long overdue. I don't think you're going to be able to drill plates in a movement for fitting the original dial feet- that's probably a pipe dream. So say you were going to get maybe a 2846-2 with a movement ring- I'd figure at that point you'd need to get a spare dial and hands rather than trash your 1030 dial and hands. So then your looking at maybe $500 or more. So that's why I say get the 1030 serviced and see where you go from there.

The 16000 DJ is made for a 3035 movement- not a 3135. You'd do better with a 16200 DJ case. Late model DJ dials will fit either movement- 3035 or 3135.

Try Josh or Andrew (trustytime) for DDs and DD2s- they have good selections

Should work- it's an older movement that closely approximates the thickness of the 2836-2. Like C-C said- you'll probably have to cut the dial feet. Hand sizes are the same as current eta- 150/90/25. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_2783 Also good because it's 21,600 bph.

Insert looks fine to me- and I would think it's period correct This is my 16800 for comparison. Pearls age at different rates and so does the lume on the dial and hands for that matter.

Yep, the dial is good, but the relume sucks!

I always go to Ranftt to check out movements- a great source of info http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_2671 So yes a Swiss 2671 would be 28,800 bph, but it looks like your clone is the 21,600. I had a 2836-2 clone that also was 21,600 and my only regret was that my watchmaker wouldn't service it when it quit working- watchmakers can be funny that way- dealing with clones isn't as easy sqeasy as working on a Swiss eta. Here's a movement on ebay- maybe you just swap out http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-ETA-2671-automatic-movement-mouvement-Werk-/401085957050?hash=item5d629603ba:g:CMoAAOSwu1VW4Ubp Or you take your clone to a watchmaker and see if he'll work on it and what the cost would be. Once a clone is serviced, it should be ok for4-5 years, I would think.