alligoat

Excellent tutorial! I think that's pretty much covered it. I kinda like DJs myself

Dang, it looks good but it has no lugholes!

As long as your dial is an MBW 1680 dial, it should be an easy build. The MBW 1680 dial is smaller than the gen or aftermarket 1680 dials and measures 26.2mm as opposed to the gen dials (and aftermarket ones) at 26.5mm. AFAIK, all of the MBW 1680s are built using the 5513 case anyway, but the later ones are marked 1680 between the lugs, whereas the early 1680 MBWs were markied 5513 If you use a gen dial, you have to file down the OD of the dial or enlarge the dial seat of the case. Not easy, but it can be done.

http://www.p-cls.com/rldds70101-daydate-fluted-midnight-blue-ssle-asian-2813-28800-p-13666.html http://www.p-cls.com/rldds70001a-daydate-fluted-midnight-blue-ssle-asian-283631-p-13665.html Like MD says, I'd go with the asian eta clone- the 2836-31. The 2813 may be a high beat, but it's still an asian 21j. But it may work for you, do you feel lucky? I'm not keen on these movements made to look like a Rolex 3135, but apparently they sell. But at least with an asian eta clone, a watchmaker can work on it.

Looking good Tony, enjoy!

My watchmaker likes to test Rolexes for WR by leaving the crown unscrewed- at that point you gotta hope the two gaskets in the tube (for subs) do their thing! I finally told him that was BS and had him screw down the crown. I always try to do my water duties with the crown screwed down! On a DJ, Explorer, GMT, etc, you only have one gasket- at that point you gotta hope it's tight or got a good dose of silicone!

You can read more about it over at repgeek: http://www.repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=196926 I don't know how quickly this watch will come to fruition, if it does at all. I would think building one yourself could easily run $1,000-1,500- they're just not an easy build if done right. The dial alone could easily run $500. Other obstacles are the bezel- GP, crown and tube- easy, and the bracelet- not so easy- could run $400-500 for a decent one. You'd want to do it with a good case- like TC's gen like mid case- $250 w/ bezel assembly- then you get the GP bezel to go with it. There were a few WM9 TTs that came out 2-3 years ago- if you found one of those for sale you'd be lucky- haven't seen any lately.

I think it's this one- 29-325-10. It fits under the crystal retaining ring in the groove there and also is the gasket for the case back. Worked on my 1680 MBW just fine as I recall http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-PC-O-RING-CASE-GASKET-FOR-ROLEX-29-325-10-/360323105424?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e4ee4290#ht_765wt_1398

OysterPassion is a good little timeline for the most part. The thing with Rolex is they are always making changes. I have a 16800 that has a 1998 dial- it says Swiss T<25, but was lumed in luminova so it still glows at night, as do the hands. Rolex used up the last batch of T<25 dials using luminova and then went to the 'Swiss' designation using luminova. Don't know if this happened on the new 16610s also. Mine was a service dial since it originally had the matte dial- 8.1 million SN. Read about that on VRF. 10 years on the slim 4, hard to believe, but 16610 production ended in 2010 or so, right?

Back when WM9 was around there was a run of the 16613, but that's been 3-4 years ago I would think. Get in touch w/ BK and see if he has a TT these days. seems like the guys over at RWI have built the most blue 16613s lately, some with gen dials. It's not an easy watch to build, insert, dial and bracelet are all a challenge.

No, you'd need the bezel assembly also. As I understand it, BK ships in all of the parts and assembles the watches himself.

The fonts on the insert are bold. So you could order another insert with the slim 4 and transfer the WM pearl to it. Dial is fine, don't forget to trim the cgs!

If you could find a noobmariner dial or an MBW dial, you'd have a decent watch w/ the gen crown and gen insert. Still got a swiss eta- clones weren't around in those days. It would be a decent beater, don't know if it would test for WR. If you could get an old WM9 case, V1, or 1.5, for not too much then you could put the gen crystal in there and have a better watch. How's the bracelet? Does the gold return down the sides of the SELs? Or what if you bought just a case from BK- the modern TW best?

Nice job Basketbob. Where did the SA3135 come from? I think the slim 4 came out in 2003 when the Y serial changed to the 16610T case (no lugholes). Certainly it was out on the F serials which are around 2004. This is a late Y-serial- no lugholes case

Two things, one, the dial isn't that good. Two, the case won't take a gen crystal. We've come a long way baby! Even a noob TT blue dial is better than this old dial. MBWs are also better. But the case has short comings so I wouldn't get to excited about this watch.

That movement is going to be fine- that flat top 3 on 30 tells me it's a Rolex movement. No one's rep'd this watch like that. Should be a 1525 movt inside. It looks all original to me.

The only thing that I can think of is the lume sucks. But a relume would fix that.

The one for $110 from Mahand is interesting. He obviously has a connection for dials from the far east. Also sells a good bit of Tudor watches.

Are these Yuki dials any good? http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/8677844/9637047.htm I know for a while they weren't, but this one looks ok to me.

Looking good bones! That Yuki 92350 looks more like a 91350 w/ the detachable end pieces- how did you mod it?

That's a submariner clasp on that oyster bracelet. I'm not sure how the 2824 is going to fit with the pie pan dial- I'm thinking that it's going to be too high in the case and the stem won't align through the case correctly. A flat DJ dial from a 16000 might work, or maybe a 2836-2 would work since it's a thicker movement. I built this Explorer with a 1601 case and the flat Explorer dial w/ a 2824 and it worked beautifully. I did have a Stilty spacer ring to keep the movement in place properly, but a raffletime #2 ring might work- might need a little filing.

Wokky refers to the inner chapter ring or rehaut as we refer to it, when it slopes in too much and isn't straight up and down like on a gen Rolex. The chapter ring is where rhe 'ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX' engraving is. Your watch does appear to have some wokkiness to it. Wok is the bowl that the Chinese cook in, hence wokky! Wokky is also a good indication on non-gen construction which is probably the case with this case from Trusty- not a bad watch, but WM9 and TC use better cases. I think the date mag is ok and the hands also look fine to me. Minute hand is supposed to be thicker.

6238 takes a 6mm crown 6263 takes a 7mm crown- 24-703 is the best bet.

24-600 is the early 6mm crown and takes the old 6mm tube- works for the 6536 and the early Daytonas, 6238, 6239 etc.

Google is your friend! Try 'moon phase comlication watch', that'll get you started!