alligoat

Looks like a ST case to me. With a few more parts you'd be there: 16800/16610 dial movement w/ DW overlay case tube- $20 or so from WSO or Clarks bezel insert maybe a gasket or two and where's that gdmf click spring? But when you're done, you'll have a kick a$$ watch I love mine and it's WR to boot so I can do anything with it

Old MBW/MBKs had 'Orig Polex Design' between the lugs and the inside of the caseback would be inscribed 'Gelena Shiterand'. Check for those.

It won't fit and the pearl is wrong for a 1665- like E says- don't do it!

MBW is the way too go. With a gen dial and a 2846-2 or other slow beat eta, you've got a great beater. The Josh case is ok, but not the level of the MBW- short cgs are a problem, but it's ok in a pinch for a budget rep.

Learn something everyday! That 79190 is a good looking watch. I wonder if the case is closer to a 5513 or a 16800. It wouldn't surprise me to see Rolex use a 295-C crystal with the cyclops to the right for the eta datewheel- and then the 16800 bezel assembly... But the pearl is like a 5513 pearl....

Are there any Tudor subs with a sapphire crystal? There's later models like the Hydro, Hydronaut, Black Bay and Pelagos- but they're not subs per se- or at least they don't use the name. I think the Tudor subs all have acrylic crystals. The later watches have different names.

Welcome aboard I guess the best eta movement is the 2892-A2 and the 2893 and 2894 are also good. But that's my opinion. Buying eta watches is just a matter of looking around, but you could be more specific also- it's a pretty vague question.

LOL, I'd figure a WM9v2 is worth around $550. Even though it had the small 2678, it also had the dial with SL as I recall. BK's latest TW Best is going in the high $600 range if I'm not mistaken.

Nobody makes a 1016 dial to fit a A2824-2, except for MBW. But everyone gets by by removing the dial feet and gluing the dial to the top movement ring. You might check out the Yuki dials- they're reasonably priced at around $128 http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6380817/6238531.htm They used to be very good and then went downhill. But this one looks decent to me. LHOOQ is the resident Explorer I pro- you could check with him and see what his opinion is at this time on the Yuki dials.

Same old deal- the gen 1680 dial is 26.5mm and won't fit in the MBW case (which is really a 5513 case). MBW 1680 dials are 26.2mm so they will fit in the MBW case. Dilemma still is how do you trim the 1680 gen or good aftermarket dial down .3mm or enlarge the 5513 case to accept the 26.5mm dial (metal shop lathe).

Man, I have a time getting on the Rolex Forum- my computer can't get by the 'long running script'. But that thread appears to be from 2010 from what I could tell and didn't see where it had anything to do with stopping raffles time..

interesting- raffles-time isn't on ebay- wonder what happened.

The 1680 dial is 26.5mm and the 16800 dial is 27.3mm. The 16800 and 16610 dials are the same and interchangeable.

I didn't see it in a quick run thru the store on ebay- might email gary and see if he has any more or expects to get them soon.

My dial is a gen matte dial (relumed) and measures 27.3mm- it fit w/ no problems. The rafflestime #2 ring was a tight fit- I should have filed it down a little. But it's in there now.

Usual suspects- Clark's and Wholesaleoutlet990. Also, you can keep an eye on ebay. You're buying aftermarket parts so the fit may not be perfect and may require a little massaging- i.e. filing!

Interesting! I recently swapped out the case on my 16800 franken from a noob case with the lugholes drilled to the ST 3035 case. The 2834-2 movement fit right in the ST case with the rafflestime #2 ring. Crown position is high and looks good. I like the ST case for the fact that it takes good aftermarket/gen parts like the bezel, insert and crystal. The case is WR and the only thing I don't like is the tall lugs (when compared to a gen 16800 case) and the ridge along the case at the crown guards. But it certainly is an improvement over the noob case which we all know has its shortcomings. Here's a pic of the ST case on top and a gen 16800 case on the bottom. The gen case is thinner as far as the height of the lugs. The ST case is more like a 16610 case, IMO. The 593 end pieces didn't fit too well, they're too flat for the ST case. I guess I could try to bend them out a little or swap over to some 501Bs. I certainly don't intend to try to file down all four lugs of the ST case at this point. But overall, I've been happy with the ST case- I certainly prefer it to the noob case. It's comparable to the TW Best/WM9/TC sub cases as far as I'm concerned

The bracelet is definitely rep- 16233- never heard of that number and the 455B end pieces spell rep to me. I agree the dial is suspicious and the tube is questionable. No movement shot either- since it's supposedly a 7021, that would be a FE 390 movement I would think Pearl looks fake also

Wearing the DD to a funeral today

Eric, why don't you just pony up $4K + and get yourself a gen! Then you wouldn't have to worry about a $100 part being correct or incorrect- on a rep no less! And that brings us back to Rule Number 1 of replica collecting- A rep is always a rep. You can't make it a gen. Why don't you post a pic of your WM9v3?

It's a DWO- the eta datewheel definitely won't work so it has to be an overlay. Another DWO might be the solution or a realignment

Actually the MBW dial is smaller than the gen 1680 dial. 26.2mm for the MBW and 26.5 for the gen and all of the rest of the good aftermarket dials. That's because the case for the MBW 1680 is really a 5513 case and the 5513 dial is smaller. Options are: 1. trim the left side of the date window on the dial- file it to the left and touch up w/ a little bit of flat black paint 2. go back to the original white MBW DW with open 6/9s and round top 3s. 3. get another DW like the one FxrAndy has in his signature- http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/150961-how-to-make-a-vintage-brushed-silver-dwo/ 4. Check w/ jmb and see if he has any leftover DWOs I have a white MBW 1680 dial and the silver MBW DW- ready to go on a 2846-2- wonder if I'll have the same problem!

The old trick that used to work on the 5512/3s and 1680s was to put a bend or kink in the flat washer. That would create the necesaary friction to slow down the bezel- might try it on the 16610. All my problems w/ the 16610 bezel assembly have been a case of too tight!

OK, I did the research- Y-serial ran from 2002-2003 and was a transitional time. The early 2002 Y serial had lugholes and the boxy 4 insert Then the case w/o lugholes came out- the 16610T case. Circa 2003 maybe- here's a pic I borrowed So this would be the later Y serial w/o lugholes and the new triangular 4 insert. However, the bezels should be the same on these two models.

Wow! The things that people worry about! A flat 4 bezel insert predates your WM9v3 so technically it's not correct. Maybe you could source a late model gen bezel insert with the correct triangular 4. As for the short bezel teeth, it's not anything that I've ever really heard anyone getting too worried about. If you think your bezel is wrong, you could always replace it with another one, but you could run into fitment problems since these aftermarket parts don't always fit that well. But the WM9v3 is a well regarded rep, so you may be worrying all for naught.