alligoat

Is this a Puretime 1680 with the silver DW and decent pearl? Yes, the crown guards need a trim. A gen crown might be a tad smaller also.

Should accept a gen crystal, bezel insert (and other bezel parts), and of course the gen tube and crown which all sub reps will accept.

The C&I rivet was made in the USA by Rolex in the 60s and 70s to avoid the import tax- comparable to the 7206 - same flimsy quality. There's also the Mexican bracelets made for Joskes around the same time- still Rolex.

I guess the riveted 6636 is a little too early for a 1680. But they were used on the early 5513s and 5512s. 1680s theoretically came out in 1967, but really started showing up around 1969- the early reds. Around 1974 the dial went to white.

Hey sneed, I actually think your second pic is of a 3035- DW goes the same way as the 1575 and the open 6's and 9's Here's a 3135

I'm with chef on this- stick with the asian clone 2836-2 that you've got. There's no point in spending more money for a movement that only looks like a Rolex movement and is really only a 'dressed up' eta.

The 1575 datewheel goes in the opposite direction. A 3135 DW goes in the right direction but has the wrong fonts. Both are probably too thick.

That serial # M258117 told me it was rep immediately- pity the fool who thought it was gen!

Looks like a redial to me. You might want to check out the 6582 using google or bing. Movement would be 1030 chronometer grade. Typically the dial would read: Rolex Oyster Perpetual, Officially Certified Chronometer. This watch would look good on a leather strap.

The watch from Josh that you linked to isn't an SD, it's a Tudor. It's also not a 5514, but if you lke the watch what the heck.

You might also try the raffles-time #2 ring http://www.ebay.com/itm/Movement-Ring-for-DG-2813-or-others-that-fit-Size-2-/160908361167?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2576e2bdcf

I disagree with this statement- on my dg3804 the DW is right side justified, so an overlay would help. My dial is the ingod44.I saw one 3804 this week with an MBW overlay- looked fine. A TC DWO should also work even if the fonts are wrong- closed 6' and 9's.

Plam B is to buy an old Rolex Air King with the 1530 movt, or an Oyster Perpetual with the 1530/1560 in it like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROLEX-VINTAGE-1002-OYSTER-PERPETUAL-SS-1560-MENS-1251XXX-/221165378798?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item337e7bdcee You can always sell the case to someone who wants to build an Explorer I 5500

Nice 5508 cc33! Another thought would be to trade the 1030 for a 1530 movement- it ought to be an even swap for the most part. You could also use a 1560 or 1570 w/o the date or a 1520. I realize the beat on the 1570/1520 is higher so the 1530/1560 would be more accurate. Edit: Just ran across a 1530 movement on VRM for $695- being sold by Steve Mulholland over in FLA

Nice job,Pete. I like the way you installed a 2893-2 in there. Maybe you could tell us a little more about it- where did the spacer ring come from? You mentioned the taller pinions and I guess the stem lined up ok with the tube and crown.

Why not get a 6536 or 6538 case?

I'm wondering if the rafflestime #2 would work- Rolex sized on the outside and eta on the ID Only issue would be the stem height and does it fit thru the tube squarely

I agree, it's worth $1500 on a good day and $200 for a service. Polish the crystal, case and bracelet and leave it at that. No point IMO in spending anymore on it at this point unless it really speaks to you.

Looks like a relumed 5512 dial. Are you saying that the case is a DRSD- double red sea-dweller? Might want to clear all of the bottle caps out of there and take a shot on a neutral background- then we might be able to tell what you have.

Nice build hava! I like the white seconds hand that you used- I thought about that! I also like your DWO- it looks better than the stock one which I just kept on there.

A gilt dial sub is too early for an HEV. Gilt dials went out in the middle 60s and HEVs showed up in the late 60s.

The caseback is from the earlier DRSD The GWSD should have the 'ROLEX' rolled along the outside perimeter of the case back like the rest of the writing This is the GWSD caseback! But as is the case with vintage Rolex, the rules aren't always hard and fast

I've been wearing the 16800 franken a lot lately- especially since I've recased it in the ST3035 case gen insert, gen dial, gen crown, gen bracelet- WR to boot!

Welcome to the MBW club! Now let the modding begin. The pearl on the 1665/1680/5513/5512 MBWs all suck big time, but if you can get it out of there and put in a Ofrei or Yuki pearl, you should be fine. Bracelets have never been great on the MBWs although your end links look nice, but they have the wrong numbers on the back. You could brush the sides of the bracelet. Caseback is wrong for the GWSD, but who's going notice if you keep the watch on! Datewheel is the standard MBW DW, good luck getting a correct one. Crown guards look decent but could use an inside trim. Drilling the lugholes should also be on your list. If you do a put a 702 crown on there, you'll need a 7020 tube- those are tough to find also. But that's an MBW- you pay for the watch and then you pay again doing all of the mods to make it right. But when you get finished, you'll have one fine rep.

The ingod dial is slightly smaller than the Explorer II dial that comes in the 1655, but it fits in there fine, at least mine did- decent border around the minute track on all sides