alligoat

I do a lot of straps- here's a washed out iPhone pic of the 16013TT on a brown croc strap I also do the 1550 gold shell on a strap

You're on the right track- you'll have two nice vintage subs!

3 ticks and 5 ticks are a standard Rolex variation- we've seen it on the 16610LV also. Fading Red Yachtmaster print wouldn't surprise me either. I believe the YM debuted in 1992, so that would go back to the Swiss- T<25 dials and maybe even a bracelet w/o SELs, but I really am not a student of the YM. Since this is a Z serial though, fading shouldn't be as much of an issue since the dial's only 6-7 years old. But what if it was a WM9 case and someone put a 3035 in it? And the Rolex story is made up or the case really fooled an unsuspecting Rolex employee. It may have even fooled the seller.Then it would be a $1500-$2000 watch at best.

Why mess with a messed up watch?

Can't help you with Cubic Works, but what about a BK or TC DWO? They will work even though they aren't like an original Rolex DW with the open6/9s and flat top 3s. Now days if Rolex were to service a 1500 and put in a new DW, it would look just like a BK or TC DWO. I've got a gen 1500 with the newer DW- it's on the left in this pic. The 1550 gold shell on the right has the old style DW open 6/9s and flat top 3s

Yeh, that dial is pretty bad- you'd do better with a noob. Don't quit trying- in other words- buy another watch!

That looks pretty nice- TC case? You've also got the insert w/ the boxy 4. Nice patina on the hands and dial. I guess the lugs on the ST 3135 are a little bit chunky, but I love the lugholes in that case. I think your hands look fine, btw.

It's a 5512 Sub. The dial says Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified and the 1560 is a chronometer grade movement. The 5513 caseback is no big deal, Rolex mixed up casebacks on these two models all the time. This watch isn't a franken, it's an old 5512 with a redone dial. I figure it will go somewhere around $4K usd- that's my guess! If it had a decent dial it would be worth a lot more.

I'd call this watch an early 16610- 16800s and 16610s both used the same dial- the tritium w/ wg surrounds- from 1984 til 1998. Your case is 16610 and your dw is 16610 w/ the closed 6/9s. Bracelet would be a 93150 with 501B ends for the 16610 and 593 ends for a 16800. Or just leave the 93250 on there and say it's a bracelet replacement- although the center links of the SELs look a wee bit rounded over.

The Josh one is just a little better because it doesn't have a HE valve. But both are entry level watches with the a21j movements, so for the price what have you got to loose?

Get the second model- it's got the best case and takes a gen crystal- even if the cgs are stubby Datewheel is also correct w/ flat top 3s and open 6s and 9s Insert is better w/ an all acrylic pearl.

It looks to me like a standard chinese rep- typical for 2006. But the movement is probably a swiss eta- that's the good news. Certainly a better case would be a good deal- WM9, TW Best, or TC would do as well as a new insert You need to measure the dial also- if it's too big you might need a new dial also. Good luck

Like PeteM says, hit and miss. I always try other sellers first, but if i can't find it somewhere else, I take a chance. But I will say his Rolex 7030 tubes have worked well for me.

Cool AP, I like the idea of using a dremel to widen out the dial seat- may have to give that a try on my MBW 1680! Thanks

I just looked at a gold AK on ebay from '77-78 and it had DJ style hands http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-Men-18kt-Yellow-Gold-SS-Oyster-Perpetual-Air-King-Watch-5500-/300679393786?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item4601e371fa Seems like later hands were DJ style, or maybe people just swapped them out later- but I doubt anyone would question it anyway

Have you talked to Justin about this? I would think the best solution is to trim the inside of the case so the 26.5mm dial fits in there. The MBW red sub dial is 26.2mm so you'd only have to remove .3mm or .15mm from each side- all the way around.

That's quite a watch R! Congrats

There's only one way to find out and that is try it yourself and see. The TC bezel is gen spec so it should fit, but be prepared to do a little modding. The last two bezels I've installed required some sanding of the inside to fit. Good luck.

Here's a Y serial from 2002 Swiss Made dial and SL hands Lugholes Boxy 4 in 40 insert and SEL 92350 bracelet The lugholes disappeared on the later Y serials- c. 2003 Same Swiss Made dial. no lughole case the 16610 T case new triangular 4 in 40 insert and the SEL 93250 bracelet Between Panerai's P serial and the Y serial was the K serial. Before that was the A serial. Late A serials may have been the first with the SEL 93250 Luminova (denoted 'Swiss") were around 1999, and the Swiss Made SL dial came out in 2000

Oops- right you are Fidhle! When I recased the 16800 I got a gen insert in there.

It's important to remember that the 16800 and the 16610 use the exact same bezel assemblies, same crystals and same crown and tube. So a 16800 bezel is the same as a 16610 bezel, but it may be more worn since it's 30 yrs old. But with drilled lugholes, your best bet is going to be an early 16610- like Panerai's or earlier. I did the Euromariner A serial with the lugholes and a 93150 with 501B end pieces. I did use the noob 16610 dial, but a tritium dial would be more correct. But Rolex would put a new Swiss Made dial in an early 16610 during service if the tritium was dead It's the bottom watch in this pic- the insert is a gen insert with the triangular 4 in 40 which is also modern- not correct for an older 16610 Top left is the GWSD and top right is the old noob 16800 franken which has since this pic been recased in a ST 3035 case

Wow! I completely disagree with correctime on this. Jewelerstools doesn't know his parts, uses obscure old parts #s that I don't think Rolex has used in 20 years. At one point I had to get after him about his 702 and 703 crowns- he was totally out to lunch Like Panerai says, this insert is totally bogus- those are 5513 sizes and it would certainly be a new turn if Rolex was to start using a new metal surround for the 5513 insert. My last replacement lumi insert for my 1680 cost me $65, but that was back in 2008. It was the all acrylic pearl. I can't see a insert costing more than $125 from Rolex even today.

Looks good. Are you going to stick with the 'Swiss Made' dial or try to get a 'Swiss- T<25' dial? I noticed Yuki has the T<25 dial for $85. http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6380817/9247346.htm

I'm with Joey on this- correct hand stack for a 16753, it's a gen