alligoat

I have no idea what the tap size for a 7000 tube is. The 7030 tube takes the 3.0mm x .35 tap.

The 5512/3 came out around 1959 with the 1530 movement or the 1560 for the 5512. Those watches used the 700 crown and tube. The crown didn't have the three dots below the crown emblem. The 702 came out in the late 60s and was the first 'triplock' with two gaskets in the tube and one in the crown. The 703 didn't come out until around 1980 or so. It has 4 gaskets, one in the crown, two in the tube and one outside the tube at the base.

As you say, the end links are smaller and the bracelet could well be also- stick w/ 20mm and you'll be much better off. The older bracelets didn't use screws like the newer ones do so you might have to drill out a rivet and then install a new one- not the kind of job for a novice.

I built my DD with the stainless case for less than an 1803 in YG. Phong modified the 16000 DJ case which wasn't cheap, dial was a lucky find and the movement ran about $1200 serviced. All told, it ran me $2300.

With a WM9 V3, you should be fine for swimming. Since the WM9 copies the gen 16610 submariner construction, it should be able to do better than a simple swim.

This came out around the time of the first WM9 and the WM9 v1.5 that Precious Time sold. Like Preacher says, it was an MBK case with noob dial and noob bracelet. The superlumed WM9 dial is V2 and later. That Clarks' insert w/ WM pearl looks good B!

I've had a few clones w/o the eta markings.

Or did you get an asian eta clone? A pic of the movement would help

Good looking watch! I like the AR. I'd like to see those cgs straightened up a bit- here's a gen to compare File those babies on the inside edges!

+1, I've been thinking about a dial and hands for my Euromariner- the old noob dial and hands are kinda of weak.

Put it in a beat up case and away you go. Of course you'll have to age the hands to match, but that's no biggy!

It's been my experience that the a21j and the 2836 have the same stem position. When you put the movement in the case (with the dial on of course). you need to sight thru the case tube. If the hole where the stem goes into the movement is low, you need a 2824-2 movement. If the hole in the movement is high in the case tube, I don't know what you do unless you add a dial spacer and taller pinions to the movement.

Fidhle's got it right. You're thinking of the older and now discontinued 16610 which had the flatter pearl and the new 116610 which has the prouder pearl.

At this point in time there are only two really good 16610s out there that I'm aware of. 1 is the TC sub and the other is the BK TW best. Other models like the WM9, Euromariner, and PT sub are out of production AFAIK Noobmariners don't count in my mind since they don't take gen parts like these later models do. The Sean sub is good and people are doing cool builds with the ST3135 case, but these aren't as popular as the BK and TC subs.

LOL, Freddy, the handset is: Hands: Genuine Luminova Looking good, O!

The AK and the Oysterdate bowing out at the end of the 80s would be consistent with the 5513 being replaced by the 14060 at about the same point in time. One of my early reps from Silix was this 6694 I was never happy with the weak date mag so I swapped an aftermarket Rolex crystal in there- but damn, the cyclops was in the wrong position- too far inward as I recall Finally got a MKII dial and hands and a T12 which fit perfectly That old Silix watch had a gen swiss eta and it seems like I paid $150 for it including postage. If that Oysterdate comes with a asian eta 2836-2, it should be a cool watch. The other watch that goes with the AK and the Oysterdate is the 1500 Date I've got two of those- nice beaters I paid $1100 for the ss model and $1250 for the 1550 GP. Of course I had to service them so add $150-200 to the cost of each of them. But they're nice beaters- actually the GP is more of a dress watch- put it on a cheap jubilee recently

Does Rolex even make an Oysterdate these days? The 6694 Oysterdate ran into the early 80's and it was a manual wind watch w/ a 34mm case. But the Oysterdate and Air King Date would be fun reps- just don't know if either is still around- guess I'll check google!

Very nice! Your list of parts is very impressive. The rehaut is certainly better than the SSD V2- much straighter. But I do agree with sneed, it's not a franken with only a gen insert. I'd bet a gen crystal won't fit though and I'm not sure if fitting a gen crown is worth it at this point. But you could use an aftermarket tube from Clarks or WSO and they'll take a gen crown. On my SSD V2, I just left the rep crown and tube on there since they were pretty good to begin with. I bought a gen insert and it looked the same as the V2 rep insert and since PBdad had relumed the rep insert, I left it on the watch. Guess it's time to sell the gen insert! Some rep parts are so good these days, it's incredible- like the TC dial, hands, dwo and bracelet! Oops, wrong pic- here's the 16660

Yuki has the brown croc like strap, then you just add the Rolex buckle http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6784664/8586801.htm Also, check out http://www.fredawatchstraps.com/ Some of those Hadley Roma straps are good- you just need to make sure they're 20 x 16 Last time I watched Dr. No, I could have sweared that the strap on Bond's Rolex was black croc, but either looks good, but I'm partial to dark brown myself.

He was a dealer around here up until a few years ago. Does anyone know what happened to him?

I went the budget route on my GW and it's not as good as some of the other GWs, but it's a great beater. I started with the $198 Angus 1665 with the 2846-2 and the silver DWO with correct flat top 3's and open 6/9s MBW dial, gen crown and aftermarket tube, G-S domed crystal and jmb retaining ring. It's WR and I'm happy with it as a beater

I'd agree with correctime on this. Build your own frankens. It takes a little time, but with the help of a watchsmith, it's fairly easy. 16013 w/ eta motor built it 5-6 years ago for $500, I also wear it on a TT jubilee 1803 in stainless steel- 1556 movement and white DD dial this one ran around $2300 16800 matte dial sub- started out in a noob case- on the right in the first pic (watch on left is a gen) then I put it in a ST 3035 case this year Now days all I do is build frankens- they're more expensive than OOTB reps, but certainly a step above

A gen dial could easily run $300-500. And you might see them for less or more- just a matter of being in the right place at the right time.

Looking good J! Have you ever considered the wg fluted bezel? Or the polished SS fluted bezel for the budget conscious? Seems like I've seen you use that dial before- the older DJ that's turned off-white/beige. That's what I used on my old DJ franken Recently put it on a jubilee but don't have any pics. Sure makes for a great low profile beater.