alligoat

It would be ironic if it were a gen dial in a rep case! But the ageing on the dial lume plots looks suspect to me Yellow hands look like some of my work- I'm hell on matching dials and hands.

A SEL bracelet is all wrong for a 1675. Early 1675s would take a 7206 with 58 end pieces. Next would be a 7836 with 280 ends 78360 follows that with 580 ends People also could fit a 93150 with 580 ends on a late model 1675 Since you're dealing with a rep, you may have to file and bend the end links to get them to fit. A 93150 would be what you want and the 580 end pieces would be correct- hopefully you can make them work. I've used the rep end pieces on a few occasions and done ok.

If you're going to use a tritium dial, you need a case with lugholes. So you either drill the TC case or use a ST3135 case which has lugholes. The ST case isn't perfect, but it's ok and would probably be the easier choice. For a bezel assembly, you can use any decent aftermarket assembly, but you may have to do some sanding, etc. to make it fit. It's too bad the MBW case with lugholes isn't around anymore- mine is an A serial Euromariner. I put a Clark's crystal and good aftermarket bezel with a gen crystal retaining ring on it and now it's WR. A few months ago I put a WM9 dial and some TC hands on it. It's got a gen crown and tube, and gen 501B end pieces on an MBW 93150. Inside is a swiss eta 2836-2. I'd thought about putting a relumed tritium dial on there, but the SL of the WM9 dial and the TC hands is cool.

Nice build! Your hands and dial lume match nicely. I'd love to see a head on pic w/ the DWO thru the cyclops.

This is what I've been doing- sand the OD of the crystal retaining ring or the ID of the bezel, or both. I've done this on the aftermarket 16610 bezel assemblies also. I use a 320 or 400 grit sandpaper (wet/dry) and do it by hand- nice and slow w/ some test fitting along the way. It usually doesn't take too long- 30 minutes to an hour, maybe.

No, buy a TC sub or the BK TW Best. This sub doesn't have the gen like construction and isn't worth the premium price

Here's a bezel from j and k watches- they're a little better than WSO, IMO! http://www.ebay.com/itm/300738858780?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 It says 30.4mm, but you can always sand it larger

By the time all's said and done, it might just be easiest to buy the Asian 21j version and use the bezel assembly http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=10406 Or buy Mike's bezel and get a new insert- maybe from BK

Ryan, you're kind of mixed up between a 16800 and a 16610. But the parts for a 16610 are more readily available- there is no rep 3035 movement at this point. You could use a TC case and drill the lugholes and put a gen 3035 in it or an eta. Or use a Sean case and drill the lugholes again and put a 3135 yuki in it and make an early 16610 w/ the tritium dial. A TC bracelet only goes with a late model 16610. 16800s and early 16610s (til 2000 or so) take a 93150 with either 593 ends (16800) or 501B ends (16610). If you're looking for rep hands to fit an eta or 3135, look at Clark's Watch supply- nostalgia_2000 on the bay. This is a 16800 franken- relumed matte dial, ST3035 case, gen insert, Clark's crystal, gen crown and tube and a 93150 with 593 ends. Movement is a 2834-2

Dave, the watch you bought is a 16610 case with the sapphire crystal and the modern bezel assembly. This won't work for a 1680 build- sorry!

I'd leave that dial just the way it is! Being that it's a 50 year old dial, there's no point in worrying about the lume. Just leave it the way it is.

I've never heard of a BK 1680 case, maybe you could explain.

For the 16200 case, I think the 2824-2 will work the best- I don't agree with preacher62 on this. But that's not to say the 2836-2 can't be made to work. My experience is the 2824-2 closely approximates the 3135 stem position and the 2836-2 equals the 3035 stem position.

Yep, if you're not into modding watches, the PT 1665 is a challenge. Like Bonesey, I got a custom crystal retention ring from jmb, but alas, I'm afraid jmb has crashed and burned and may be out of the rep business these days. Now you might be able to pick up a bezel assembly from WSO or Clark's, but at that point an MBW 1665 might be the easiest route. But remember, an MBW takes a lot of work also. Drill the lugholes, trim the cgs, gen crown and tube, maybe even get a suitable bracelet, new tropic crystal... there is no easy out of the box 1665. My GWSD was a nice medium range (c.$400) rep- it's a PT. Sorry for the crappy pic! jmb crystal retention ring gen crown and aftermarket tube trim the insides of the cgs GS aftermarket crystal MBW GWSD dial 2846-2 movt w/ the silver DWO watch is WR and been rode hard- it's been a good beater.

I think the two dials are about the same. The case size is 34mm in both cases. The 1575 movement in a Date beat at 19800 bph. I don't know what eta would work- you'd have to research it. The earlier etas were low beat- 18000 to 21600 You could check Ranftt and maybe find one that would work. I can't remember all of the early etas- 2783 and 2784 are a couple, there are some 2400 series etas also. All are old and long out of production A 2846-2 is 21600 bph, but the stem position probably won't work in a 1500 case

That white dialed 6239 is sweet! thanks for the lead LH

I've got a couple of the 34mm Dates and they wear just fine. People who complain about these 34mm watches being too small are full of horse hockey, IMO!

Freddy's right A! Your case and bezel are decent. But as LHOOQ would say, you have a 'tumah' at the crown position. The cartel dial isn't that bad, all things considered. They're probably still making the cartel rep, we just need to figure out who has it, and then you could buy one. I've tried on the 6238 as I've told you before, but it's a tough rep to build. My V72 is still a work in progress Proportions on the Phong case just aren't right and the Phong dial kills me- look at the open 6s- they look like Gs! Here's a watch from Interwatch- two o'clock pusher needs work, but it's nice otherwise

Looks ok to me! Pearls are tough to photograph This is a 3 tick dial Date font looks fine to me Keep studying this stuff- I can't even remember the various iterations of the LV dial and when they occurred! Rolex does change stuff all the time

Here's another of the cartel dials, they are a little better than the DW dial. Ziggy serviced this a7750 5-6 years ago, guess I'm due again! I did fit a cartel dial and movt. in a DW 6239 case, it worked well At least the pushers are assymetric- which is the biggest fault of the cartel case.

The original DW on a 1600 DJ would have been flat top 3s and open 6/9s. Most were in white and champagne, but I've seen some in silver where a white dial was used. But I agree w/ 1680 on this, a TC Dw would be what you'd get if Rolex serviced your watch these days- or 15 years ago when they still serviced 1570 movts. Hands, I'd just go for what's easiest for you, that being the EU sellers, right?

Ziggy has serviced these in the past, but it's the same old same old- there are no parts available, so if there's a problem, you're SOL!

I like it! The only improvement I can think of is an eta 2846-2- then it would be a real work horse. But for the cost of a 2813, replacing movements is pretty cheap also so it may not be worth it.

If you use the pie pan dial, a 2846 might work. Your dial size sounds right

Nice looking watch! You don't mention which motor you have under the hood. Also, the bracelet may be marked 93250, but it's more of a 93150 w/ the detachable end pieces. Correct bracelet is a 93150 w/ 585 ends (or 580s in some cases). You could take the shine off of the sides with a light sanding/brushing.