alligoat

here's my white dialed Pan An 1675- the same old RA formula- Josh 1655 case, DG3804, rafflestime hands and an InGod44 dial That InGod dial is really quite nice!

That should read 'perpetual', not 'oyster' Based on 896,xxx SN, it's early 60's which is fine Here's a 6422

Might be a 6422- you know it's manual wind, doesn't say oyster, looks like a 50's model maybe a 1120 or 1220 movt. inside- try bing or google- that's what i did and found one that looked just like yours

So I signed up to become a member and you have to have 50 posts to view the sales corner!

Thanks guys Another interesting combo would be the blue insert with the white dial, You know A, I would prefer an ETA in there but RA has done so well with the 3804 that I decided to give it a whirl. My 2846-2 in my 6542 from Puretime didn't work out too well- the GMT hand was incorrectly geared, so it became a 'decorative' hand as my watchmaker said. The Josh 1655 with the ETA movt. was at least $100 more and it's probably a clone so it could easily need a service. Hi Chi! Good to hear from you- how's our buddy over in Toronto doing? I guess I need to drop him a line, haven't talked to him in a while.

I've always enjoyed the 6542 Pan Am watches, especially Freddy and Joey's efforts. But I also have an old picture of a 6542 that's certainly questionable When you look at it a couple of things might catch your eye- one is the black bezel insert, these didn't come out until 1965 or so. Secondly, the GMT hand is large- these also came out around the same time as the black insert. Amyway, I was between building a 1675 and a 6542 until I saw Ingod's white 1675 dial and that's when I decided on a white 1675 The formula is pretty simple thanks to RA and his work on building the 1675 out of josh's 1655. Josh 1655- filed down the case and drilled the lugholes the hands and the small GMT came from Raffles-time and dial was from Ingod movement is the dg3804 Bezel assembly is from Clark's amd another bezel and insert came from WSO Oh, clark's 116 crystal, Assembly was pretty simple- remove the Explorer dial and hands, glue the spacer ring from the underside of the dial to the movement and then glue the 1675 dial to the spacer ring. After that you set tha hands and away you go I put it on an old rivet bracelet- the kind that Freddy hates- and it gives a nice contrast between the ss of the bracelet and the case and the black bezel insert and the white dial. This wasn't a very expensive build and I could do more, but I left the cgs for later, kept the rep crown and tube since they work fine. Datewheel is modern, but I don't care. I was looking at Raffles-time's site today and noticed the small gmt hand is $49.95 now- I could swear I spent $25 when they first came out! I noticed that the hands look a little more yellow than the dial lume plots- luckily it's not that noticeable to the naked eye in person! Sure hope the dg3804 holds up, because I like the watch. Oh, then there's my big crown GNT from a few years back Shaved the cgs off an old sub case, and installed a flat- no cyclops crystal. But I'm liking the 1675 Pan Am better, even if it is a fantasy!

It could be the rep caseback or the 29.5mm wrench that you have, either one or both could be the culprit. Have you tried the caseback opener on another watch? I bought the cheapo set of dies early on. Finally passed them on to my nephew and got a set of Bergeon- well worth the investment. Every so often you run into a bogus caseback, but usually you can get it off with a little persistence.

Well E, if you need a new bezel assembly, it's always the old standbys- Clark's and WSO. I've come to the conclusion that none of them fit off the bat- takes time and patience to file them into shape. On my 1675 build I used a combo of the Clark's and WSO- got it on w/o the flat friction washer and it still won't turn worth a darn. Some day I'll work on it some more. On both my Euromariner and ST3035/16800 build I spent untold hours filing and sanding to get those bezels working right. You just have to be committed to going slow. Nice tutorial on coloring the hands Joey. I just use a simple topcoat method- removing lume isn't something I've tried yet. E, if you find a decent 9315 rep bracelet, let me know.

I agree with woof on this. When I did my SSDv2, I actually left the insert in there. I had a gen insert and the rep insert was so good, especially after PBdad relumed it, that I left it in.

Mix up some yellow acrylic paint to match the lume on the hands with the dial and go to town! I just did it on my Pan Am 1675 and it's pretty close. You can get that paint at any hobby store- like Michaels or Hobby Lobby Trim those cgs, they're way too fat! Is that ST pearl small enough that you could pop it out and put a yuki/ofrei one in there! Dieselpower may have a better insert- check w/him.

Have you checked lately? Maybe it's bogged down in Customs with the Christmas rush of packages

Here's a quick pic of my Pan Am 1675- bet you never knew that they existed!

For comparison- PT's movement shot

Here's a pic of a gen- yes the balance is different, balance bridge is different, but that may not be a big deal- just looks different Angus doesn't really say anywhere that this is the new improved V2

It would be interesting to see some more gen cases- I think the replacement case has thicker lugs than the older original cases.

Here's a quick pic of my gen 1680 from 1978- it's been polished, I don't consider it overly, but polished nonetheless omgiv, the big thing I see is that you need to polish the tops of the cgs over back into the case rehaut looks fine- my 1680 has a somewhat shallow rehaut

Yeh, a TC bracelet is all wrong for a 1680. Stick with the 93150 w/ 580 ends or a 9315 if you run across one at a decent price. Since it's going to RA, hopefully he'll put a good pearl in the bezel insert and do his other magic. Good luck!

Phelps, which case are you using for the 1655 build? Also, which movment?. Also, The rafflestime #2 ring may need to be filed down to fit

Keep looking! When you remove those pearls, I'm betting the hole is too big for the Yuki pearl.

Looks good. Now you need to take the dial and movement out of the case and tone down the lume some- maybe some tea to stain it or something else.

Since that dial is marked 'Swiss', I would assume that it is a service replacement dial with luminova. The earlier dials with wg surrounds would have run from 1984 til around 1990 when production stopped on the 5513 and it was replaced by the 14060. Those dials would have been labeled 'Swiss- T<25" and used tritium for the lume material. A set of luminova hands or even the current superluminova hands would work well with that dial. The luminova should stll glow well- it dates from around 1999.

That is a great looking red sub! I'd love to know which cartel case and red dial JJ used on that build. The only two improvements that I can think of are a 702 crown and tube and a 9315 bracelet, but those are probably not really necessary- it's already a great watch. Kudos to JJ.

Get them from Clark's Watch Supply on ebay- nostalgia_2000 maybe, $15 for a set and the lume is decent.

Yuki has the clone 3135 movement for $230, but currently not in stock. It might be worth a try when it comes into stock. Or you could go with a Puretime SA3135 but you might have to buy a watch to get the movement or contact Angus or Nikki and see if they'll sell you just a movement. With a clone movt, you wouldn't have to cut dial feet!

I've never heard of the Sea Dweller Octopus. Maybe you could explain where it comes from. The watch looks nice, but I'm not sure about the end links on the bracelet- here's a gen to compare with And another pic of the same gen No wokky rehaut on the gen either! Certainly that was always the biggest drawback to the SSD-V2- the wokky rehaut