preacher62

No. 21 - No matter how much you spend or how many gen parts (incl. movements) you put into a build, there will always be something that will bug the snot out of you.

How much for e new dial? MT

In about an hour, one who know his way around a watch and movement can un-case the movement and change the seconds and canon pinion wheels and have it put back, ready to wear.

If it is broken you have to buy another movement. There are no parts available for these.

+100 A lot of people on this board are really full of themselves. I remember when I waded into the world of "high-end" reps. Really scary at first.

I don't know...maybe.

I don't think so. Look at the coronet on the dial. Looks wrong. Also, the lug holes are not well centered in the lugs. Could be just the angle.

I found that mine was just that...stuck. I finally got it to move and then it worked well. Just be sure you do not push it too far.

+1

It won't keep perfect time no matter what the hairspring is made of. Saying is..."if you have to have the right time, get a Timex, if you want class, get a Rolex." You can pay less than $30 and get a watch that will keep, virtually, impeccable time and it will last for 5 to 10 years with just a battery change each year. If you keep a $5,000. Rolex for 10 years, doubtless you would have spent another $400 - $600 sometime in that range for a service. I have a Timex Ironman that is more than 15 years old and it takes a battery each year. Still keeps pretty good time and is waterproof everywhere I go.

Thanks for the rundown. As I look at the 1675 the hour hand seems extraordinarily far above the dial. When I had it apart I should have measured them with the mic. The movement that is in the watch is a very good running movement and I want to use it in another GMT project so I don't want to take it apart.

If it doesn't have lug holes, it doesn't belong in my box! Even my MBK 16610 has holes. Holes are the best!

Surely someone knows...

Just a question for someone who knows, for sure. Do the 1675 reps from the TDs use h5 wheels. It seems that, in order to clear the GMT wheel an h5 hour wheel would be good and then you'd need h5 wheels all the way. Additionally, mine looks like h5 wheels. Haven't measured them. I'm building a 2846 for my 1675 and want to make sure I put the proper wheels without dismantling the movement that is in there accept for harvesting the GMT stuff. True?? M

Just another old ragged 1675 PCG. [/

Operative phrase..."with a Little Adaptation??!!" One can do anything...given enough time and money. Might not be the budget route, though.

I have a 45 year old Bulova Snorkel and that is the way one sets the date. Turn forward past 1 AM and then backwards past 11 PM and then forward again. Even so, it will not flip the date backwards. Modern movements with hacking and quickset features do not support this.

WOW...that's all I have to say...

I would think that in the case of an iPad, contact would be too close, but a couple of inches would be safety. What I did was worse. I was finishing up a movement to case it in my 1680 and sat the movement on the case, on top of the magnet. When I put it on the Timegrapher a nearly perfect movement just went "haywire." Everything was wrong. Amplitude went to 120 and the lines were running up at a 60% angle...150+ minutes fast. Lots of noise outside of the beat lines. Luckily, I do have a degaussing coil, so I ran the whole watch through it and that apparently has realigned the molecules in the metal. It is still not as good on the analyzer as before, but I think that the rest of the magnetism will subside...maybe... JUST DON'T DO THAT!

One of the assets of RWG is the ability to learn from the mistakes of others. Therefore... Do not set your watch on your iPad if you have a Smart Case. It has a pretty strong magnet in it. I found out the hard way.

With most gen construction there are three major components. 1. The retaining ring goes over the crystal assembly and presses in place to hold the crystal to the watch. 2. The bezel ring then is usually matted to the retaining ring and snaps on to it. 3. Then there is a thin metal washer that makes thing turn smoothly that goes between the two. Additionally, there might be a click spring if it is a 16610 sub to make it click and be uni-directional. (You didn't specify what case you are looking to.) I have found that if it is not genuine Rolex, it is best to purchase the retaining ring, bezel ring and washer together as a kit. It is difficult to mate the parts from different manufacturers as .5mm of error will make a difference in the bezel turning or not turning...or falling off for that matter.

Third pic appears to have maxi hands and second pic has regular hands.

+100

Take a look here. http://www.ebay.com/itm/20mm-14k-Gold-Two-Tone-Jubilee-Watch-Band-for-Mens-Rolex-Datejust-16233-/201148798662?pt=US_Watch_Bands&hash=item2ed56716c6 This bracelet is gold filled (wrapped) not gold plated. Google "gold filled vs. gold plated" and you will find that gold filled has 100 - 1000 times a thicker gold covering. This is the bracelet that is on this watch. You can even polish it. I've been very happy with it. I put a rep clasp on it and it was good to go.

That is one great watch! I have an MBK 16610 with Polex and an old-school MBK 1680, also with Polex. Wasn't aware that it appeared anywhere else. King may have sold them sometime back.