Ronin

100% agree. Those thick lugs squared off the case too much. The 126610 symmetry and balance is great. 👍🏼

Anyone know the dial diameter of a 116xxx DJ? Thanks.

I don’t see any image(s) ?????

Interesting. I have been on a “build a vintage Tudor” kick lately. I have two incoming cases, and SIX incoming dials. LOL.

Dang that is pretty!!!

Excellent review. I wish they would use "Clear AR" on the cyclops. That to me is the biggest tell. Although, to be fair, Rolex used Blue AR for awhile during the Pandemic. I have seen GEN Steel Rolex's with Blue AR but most/all precious metal Rolex's still have Clear AR. JDF's Cyclops actually looks like the only one using Clear AR--too bad the rest of it is not that great.

@freddy333 we need more photo's details of that Tudor! 7928?

In which direction? Height, Width(dia), Length? I agree a millimeter in lug-2-lug (length) can make/break a watch for smaller wrists. I would also say a few grams in weight can make/break a watch as well. (Heavier "Heft" is NOT an indicator of quality) I have small wrists 6.75" / 17.14 CM and could not wear the 39mm Omega Spectre cofortably-- but I can wear a 42mm NTTD Ti, Seadweller 43, Panerai 111..... Mostly because the Lug-2-Lug (Length) is short enough for the wrap. Take modern Tudor, their slab side cases and thick movements ruined the Black Bay 54 ... a 37mm watch. Unbalanced on the wrist. Final example: Seiko SKX, Turtle & Willards with a published diameter of 42 / 44 / 45mm! They wear smaller than a 40mm modern Submariner. Anyone can wear a 42mm Seiko SKX... I had a buddy who worked at a major US watch retailer, and most watch retailers are secretly "rolling their eyes" at customers who claim I can't wear anything larger than X or I only wear X diameter watches.

Great stuff... To see the "tools" really necessary to get professional results: https://www.youtube.com/@Vintwatches/videos I wish I could get these results with a Dremel LOL 🤣

What case are you using? If it is a 5 digit case that orginally had a 3xxx movement, you might be able to machine down the calendar retaining portion. See pictures. Using a lathe or dremel cut this back or BEVEL it so the dial fits over it. See the Bevel from a 15xx for example -vs- the straight edge. edit to add, if you are using a 4 digit case with 3135, the rotor / height will be too great-- but you could REMOVE the autowinding all together making it "manual wind" and at least have a buttoned up watch.

Like Freddy said, diameter is not the best metric here. I had a genuine 37mm Tudor BB54 and it was AWFULLY unbalanced and heavier than a 14060/16610. Also, I have had 39mm watches with Lug-to-Lug's in excess of 50mm. Precious metal like the Blue White Gold Submariner weighs more as well. That said, a neo-vintage Sub like the 14060 on a hollow 93150 braclet is probably the best option if you can go Gen. --- or find an ARF 16610 and swap to a 93150 with Hollow links... Otherwise, look into Titanium or Carbon cases. I just picked up the VSF NTTD v5 (all Ti) Bond Seamaster and is like I am not wearing a watch! Good luck.

Thanks @freddy333 yeah, trying to boost engagement here-- and most of the old The Zigmeister 2010'era stuff is either broken links or not worth the dig. 🙂

Hey old timers, self included :-), Back in 2009-2011 I picked up a bunch of stuff for Vintage builds. MBW/MBK, Yuki Gen 1, etc. Goals: Stop this stuff from gathering dust ~ even though these parts might not win any 1:1 Super Franken Awards. Keep my watchmaking skills sharp-- the more DWO's applied, hand presses, and servicing keeps my dexterity up. Send them onto a new home where they can be worn/apprecited for what they are. Super Replica NOT Franken. You can't buy these anymore from TD's that have all moved onto modern stuff or the really BAD "BP" reps. Currently on the bench is a parts dump from a SRSD 1665 MBW. Question 1: Can someone, @Freddy333 🙏, shoot me dimensions of a DRSD build? I have two 1665 cases one looks thinner for SRSD and one thicker for DRSD. Total Height with Superdome & Caseback Total Height of MID-Case "Sides". (i.e. HEV Side) Decision Points: Just reassemble the SRSD w/New 2836 w/Stilty Silver DWO, drilled lugs.... and offer it up at 2010 $$$ inflation be d4mned. Upgrade the Dial to a DRSD MK4 close enough VN dial w/New 2836 w/Stilty DWO, drilled lugs..... and probably keep it and treat as beater. Decided: I am using a NEW Quality Seagull 2836 that is currently running COSC. A 2846 conversion to shave 28k to 21k adds no value here IMHO. Photos to follow. Open discussion.

Not for me, but I do like a lot of what they have been doing. Their new 70’s and 80’s heritage stuff is pretty cool actually.