Ronin

I managed to get it in one try using the following approach. Screw crown on full length stem (make sure it bottoms/is threaded all the way on.)Install in movement, thru case.Measure distance with caliper between top of tube, and base of crown.Unscrew crown from stemCut [insert measurement] from stem.Hand file burrs.Test fit.(Lather, Rinse, Repeat as needed)When right, use Loctite 290 between stem and crown.Use stem lube before final assembly. This is for Rolex style that has the 'spring' push in and turn. The above method should get you to the point where the spring action takes up the slack necessary to get a successful screw down. If this leaves you a little long, just use a hand file to slowly take a little off as needed. If you only have one stem available, err on the long side (shorten your measurement) and hand file as needed. Diamond files work great.

Nice work.

Try a Clark's Tudor hand set. The seconds hand has a pretty long collet.

@justasgood- K, thanks! BTW, your PM Box is full/not working. @robertk, sweet bullhead!

Wow. Fantastic as usual.

Maybe "she" is simply projecting that she has a closet full of fake designer handbags.

Yes and No. The designs you speak of, especially Rolex, were on the drawing board pre-recession/pre-GQ/Esquire/WSJ articles regarding the fasion sense to downsize. What is in the market supply chain right now is not necessarily proof positive. A local AD/Watchsmith whom I befriended was at Basel this year. The TREND he saw was to go small again. This largely comes from the Swiss looking at the Chinese/Asian markets as their new bread and butter. (The US/Western Market does not seem to be their priority). The fact is, most Chinese do not have 8" or even 7+" wrists to pull off the larger designs. There will still be larger watches, and larger watches still make sense to those with larger wrists. I think the crux of the downsize tread means the days of wearing 44mm+ bling on your 6.5" to 7" wrist, or with a suit, may "not be fashionable".

Correct. Ofrei lists the previous generation. You can try our rep dealers who sell parts. Otherwise they show up on eBay from time to time, or RafflesTime or Helenarou (eBay) might be able to help. If I come across any I will share or grab some for the community.

This is great news Angus. I love to see our Collector/Dealers participating.

That is the "Late Model" DG3804. Generally a pretty solid GMT movement. This is EASY to fix. These late models date discs ride in a metal ring and "Clip in". I am guessing it came un-clipped. If you are comfortable removing dial and hands, should be easy. If not, PM me. Rotating calendar mechanism Clip between 17 16 Fold over locking clip @ 1 It is WORTH staying with this movement/setup. This is a solid movement. Are you CONUS?

First rule of Rep-Club-- don't give away shipping secrets in public...

The "fat" GMT hand is the biggest "quick tell" to me. Parting it out might make more sense.

While not an Omega or a REP, if you want that Railroad style in a gen "Tritium 24x7 glowing" tough as nails 5000g force anti-shock, double AR, watch you might want to check out a Ball Fireman II. See my review here: http://www.rwgforum....-fireman-ii-gen Just a thought... Hell of a high quality Gen with great heritage behind it. You can probably score these for around $750.

I really think a lot of "call outs" are age related. In your 20's and younger the fake is largely assumed (weather right or wrong, true or false). Buy the time you are in your late 30's early 40's, the plausibility factor kicks in, and no one really cares. I think if I were ever called out these days, I simply would ignore/dismiss the fscker.... By not qualifying their call-out they will feel like the ass and it will lend credibility to you and your rep.

Perhaps a more simple answer to the toothbrush problem. Is it possible in travel, the power button kept getting bumped and turning it on for its 2min cycle repeatedly? -or- was this a narrow safe that could have pinched it, actually turning it on and draining the battery. Finally, electric toothbrushes use inductive charging. It is feasible the DC motor in the door/lock mechanism was able to reverse the flow from you battery into the ether. A simple test for magnetism of your own personal safes or even bank safe deposit boxes is to use a simple, old school compass. If it spins and fails to point north you might not want to put a watch in there. I also used this method to test my AceTimer winder.

Sad indeed. I purchased from him many times, and he was responsible for getting me into building SOXA's. A great guy.... May he rest in peace.

Is it the crown or tube that is stripped. I might have a crown if that is the problem.

Yes, so far this particular movement has had perfect date wheel to date window alignment for ALL GEN Rolex Dial's I have. A Stilty or Yuki ring opened up .5mm on the ID, and one notch added should make it a drop in. This is a GMT movement however, an I am not sure if DG 2813's have modernized up to this style yet.

I think this is as Andy said, the result of the old 'hand' lumed dials. Some lumers (new word), may have been more heavy handed than others. This is also why, I believe, you end up with the I-Beam style dials as well, as they were too afraid to lume outside the lines. Add to that, I would not be surprised if, back in the day, when serviced the lume would get added on top of some of the older lume. Both my Gen 1680 (for Tritium) service dial, and Ubi's 1665 (for Tritium) service dial, have the white printed markers, but no actual Tritum applied. That was left to the servicing tech but then the radioactive scare hit. It is not inconceivable to find Gen Rolex's with Service Dials and just painted markers sans-lume.... But I digress.

@Powershot - Great Photo!