Ronin

Tax? My AWCI guy with shop, and parts account (don't ask, he WON'T even sell to me, he is by the book) charges $300 + parts for a Typical Rolex service. So figure $300 + 250 for clasp = $550 for an independent shop... [edit to add: 1 Week turn around] FYI, my AD charges $1100 for a new 93150 complete bracelet...

I very much agree. You can substitute: "Gen", Cars, Computers, etc". Short of the occasional "collectors item" that shows up in any of those categories it is just the way things are. Percentage wise, reps have less depreciation then gens. I have seen newer $5700 Explorer II's sell in the $3600 range, and only have a "trade-in" value at the AD of about $2000.... So think about the 'average' Rolex that after tax is in the $6000 range, and they insult you with a $2000 trade in offer, or you can attempt to do better on eBay or FS Forums.

Initially, I did not get this impression from the OP. Rather a frustration that even I think about from time to time. I think the other posters coming out of the woodwork making the inquiries are a bit premature and in the wrong place... So to the OP. Been there, thought that, agree. However, if you approach this a little more like collecting art work things start to gel. At least to me. There are days I simply like looking at my collection and look at some watches, that see little wrist time, no differently than the painting on the wall.

Hey, I recognize that Doxa bracelet, and back drop.

Need to take new photos, as I am now sporting a GEN 7835 bracelet on this. Older photos.

This is pretty much my MO. Unless it is some rare, heavily frankened watch, I usually start at 25% off what I paid for it. Plus, for most CONUS buyers, no customs hassle. Buyer usually is the winner.

Actually, if you luck out with the late model DG3804 (good chance), do not waste your time on ETA movements for slow beat and having to deal with overlays. The new DG's datewheel's, if you can live with the font, that IMHO look like plausible service replacements, line up near perfect with Gen dials. So to recap 21J's (most likely a DG3804 in a GMT): 1.) Datewheel lines up with gen dial's 2.) Has slower beat. ~ Trying to find a ETA 2846 worth a $hit, then servicing, then dealing with overlays, is probably not worth the effort these days. ~ ALL GEN except the DG3804 and hands:

One or more of the following... most likely the D O X A . . .

www.ebay.com NDTrading Yukiwatch et. al.

You need to remove the screw and bearing housing and use a press to put it back together. Chances are it will happen again and again, so a little epoxy (JB Weld) where the rotor meets the bearing assembly (BUT NOT IN/ON THE BEARINGS) should do the trick.

Excellent result....

Have you tried Shure's? Flat is exactly how I would describe my now vintage E2C's which I believe have become the SCL2's. Factoring in Bang for the Buck, and the fact my 3G iPod was my source for these until recently, I like them. They survived 3000 miles on a motorcycle trip, and the foam inserts are great for keeping screaming baby's on airplanes at bay. They are going on 7yrs old. http://reviews.cnet.com/headphones/shure-e2/4505-7877_7-31061856.html

Disagree 100%. The Frankens here @ RWG are stellar watches. This is also driven by the "Vintage" desire where the REPS simply can not compete and you need to Franken them up. By your logic, many of the GEN makers use ETA movements. Many of our Reps use the same ETA movements, so should we only buy the 21J version?

Yes, this is the late model DG3804. It is a solid movement. IMHO, BETTER than an "Asian Copy 2836 made to look like a 3135".

Just wear it. It looks great for out of the box. Any chance for more pics of the sides of the case?

A very hard watch to rep. I own the GEN, and with the Sapphire Sides, Back, and date window position, these are tough to pull off.

But frankly, it is NOT required. While some stores might have an ID policy in place, while "face to face" with the cashier, it is more of a 'flash it' and they confirm the names match kinda thing. Making a digital copy of 'extra' personal information is simply NOT a payment card industry requirement. There is also a difference when dealing with a known, legitimate company, and our friends selling questionable goods from questionable places. Besides, the whole thing would be moot if using a Visa Gift Card with no name on it.

I would be afraid to go thru airport security with that. Explaining DAC quality to the numbskull TSA guys would be a challenge.

EPA-100 FTW! I also use a 3G iPod or 1G iPod Shuffle. For some reason they had the best DACs. My iPod Touch sounds like absolute $hit.

Either there is some serious Photoshop smoothing going on there or she uses a putty knife to apply her make-up. -or- both.