ubiquitous

For 16520's, I would probably recommend an older R or L serial Daytona if you can find one; floating Cosmograph with inverted 6 and the 200unit bezel, as these are quite difficult to find. I would also recommend a P serial, as that was the last serial to be produced of this model, and was only in production for half of 2000 as the 116520 also made it's debut within this serial range. This makes the P serial 16520 rare as well, and is sought after for it's exclusivity. The Patrizzi dials are/were a little puffed up in my opinion; I don't think those are wise to purchase, especially with some of the so-called Patrizzi dials out there with 'artifical influence' applied to the subdials. There are also some R serial porcelain dials for the 16520/8; I didn't include those either as the prices are quite high for these pieces (though beautiful and extremely rare). I must stress that these pieces are really only worth buying at top dollar prices when they are a complete B&P package as well as in appropriate condition. I also think it's better to buy on the primary basis of enjoyment of the watch, and not as an investment vehicle. Good luck, //ubi

I'm curious to know if this is a single piece only for sale, or if this is a regular offering. If it's a single piece, I wonder if this was the genuine sample used for replication?

Pay a little more for quality. It doesn't have to break the bank, but an Orbita for a couple hundred will do quite well in the long run.

weak

I have to wonder if this is the reverse engineered 'genuine sample' used to get the dimensions for the rep? At that price, it's quite tempting, but then I remind myself that I'd probably never wear it...

This happens to me from time to time as well, but mostly when I'm editing a post. I've found that if I click out of the text window and then click the text again, the text will correct itself and wrap back around to the next line, fitting everything within the window correctly. The problem may be an issue with the browser you and I are using; dunno for certain.

If you go the route of an aftermarket case with gen dial, hands, movement, bracelet etc. you'll be on par or possibly even exceeding the price of a gen. If you're really interested in getting a 1675, I'd suggest just stretching the gap to buy a nice genuine example.

Indeed- Looks to be a nice step in the right direction! Nice pearl, drilled lugs, decent crown... I wonder what the build/assembly of the bezel is like?

Indeed; I had to part with a few of my watches for financial obligations that I really didn't want to dip into the savings account for I try to keep around 10 watches in the collection, and so far it's held steady right at 10. But some pieces have moved on...

I forget- Did I send the case to you broken down into individual parts? Or did I send it assembled?

The tube wrench will be a must for installing the new tube, but you'll need a rat tail file to get the old tube out (the rep tubes don't have the same fluted star pattern for the wrench to engage). Also to note- Don't try to over-tighten the tube if you have one of the newer versions with the fluting for the wrench at the top opening (i.e. opening closest where the crown shaft/stem would go in), as you will likely shear the top of the tube right off, leaving the base stuck in the case (get that rat tail file out again). You want to tighten it just to the point where it's snug and won't unthread when turning the crown. Maybe a dot of loc-tite will help as well. The older tubes had the wrench flutting in the base of the tube, which I think worked better for installing.

For removing the cyclops, I hold the cyclops directly to one of the burners on my stove. The heat will soften the glue, and the cyclops will slide right off. There will be residue left over, but that's easy enough to clean I had to do this on my old gen 16200 case to modify it from this: To this:

Now THAT is what I call a work of art! Can't think of any more deserving than you, S. And Ross' amazing work... Not to mention generosity! It is indeed things like this that make the forum what it is Good stuff!

Glad to see that issue ended without drama, wheaton! PP issues can be quite a hassle

Well done!

Very, very nice score! Gen dial and hands will always make for the most significant difference in any project! Looking forward to seeing this one completed!

Nice solution to the stem alignment problem, jmb! Nice to have a lathe to tackle these kinds of problems BTW, were you ever able to get that Tudor chronograph together?

Difficult to say for certain based on those pics; what I can see is that several of the crowns in the large pic look to be in non-usable condition, and that's the visible damage. I bet several are probably cross threaded as well. The 7mm Triplock in the second pic looks okay in terms of being correct. I wouldn't be surprised if there were a few aftermarket or outright fakes in that mix as well, however. What's actually good in that mix may be few and far between.

I've got a bag of 100 or so of those. If you PM me your info, I'll send you a few...

Last 2846 I had was non-hack as well.

Gen dial swap? Edit: Oh, I see what you did now- SA swap to the Avenger! COOL!

See this small arm/lever that the tip of my screwdriver blade is touching? This is the part that needs to be modified or replaced to achieve a two position non-date. There are small notches (for lack of a better term) that determine the set functions when you pull the stem. What you need to do is eliminate one of the stops. Here's a borrowed pic from stilty to illustrate: The one on the right is stock, whereas the one on the left is modified. ETA also sells this part with a two position notch as well. As for your other questions- For the pearl/insert, you definitely need a vintage pearl. I'd give you one, but I already gave away all the spares I had. Re dial and hands- MBW dials typically do not have any lume, unless it's been relumed. Usually they just have little painted plots (no luminous). If the dial is not lumed already, you can paint these plots with a color more similar to tritium. For hands, you can have them redone in a similar color as well. For what it's worth, I have gen dials from the 70's that still have some life to them. They're faint, but they're not dead either. My advice is to have either Zig or Vac relume in the tone/color of choice. The results are always quite nice.

If the seconds hand isn't catching on the hour hand, or touching the dial (which I doubt), then there may be a problem with the gear driving the center seconds off the 2nd wheel, or maybe an issue with the tilting pinion itself.

Which seconds hand are you having trouble with- The small seconds at 9:00 or the center stopwatch seconds?