ubiquitous

Very nice... I epecially love that strap!!

Excellent work, Job! Looks great!

For a Sub/SD of this era, your crown options are the 7mm Twinlock, or the 7mm Triplocks; to further clarify, there are two different flavors of Triplock- vintage from the late 60's - 70's and then the current modern crowns. Since I like pictures, here is one to illustrate the Twinlock: Here is an early Triplock with cheese... And of course, modern Triplock... Note the differences in coronet on the Triplocks.... The modern Triplocks are the easiest to find... The vintage Triplocks and Twinlocks pop up from time to time, but are usually a fair bit more expensive, and not quite as frequently found. In addition, the Twinlock requires a specific tube, as the threads in the Twinlock go right to the opening (whereas the Triplocks start halfway inside and go up to clear the external tube gasket). Hope this helps... Best, R

Happy birthday, Pugs!!

Hmmmm... EP410... That movement has the full calendar + moonphase if I recall correct. I believe that the movement would work if the extra complications were removed. I would assume that these functions are modules since it's based on the EP400; however, it would seem a shame to sacrifice a great Zenith watch for the movement.

Neil, A stunning pic as per usual! Gorgeous!

Ouch....

Do you have any links to some of these ended auctions that closed in the figures you mentioned? I'd love to see them...And their bid histories!

Very nice indeed! What's more... The numeral indicies on your dial also look to be of very nice shape (i.e. a bit squared like gen). Looks great!

I still think that there is something suspiscious with this seller. And I still maintain my original opinion- Who in their right mind is going to drop between $8k - $12k for a frankenstein that can be made for fractionally less using parts that are available on the same resource? Even if you have to have a watchmaker assemble the parts and finish the project for you? Especially when one can have a very nice GENUINE watch for that money? Or, stretch it a few thousand more and buy a genuine vintage Daytona. As I have pointed out before... They ARE available in that price range if one knows where to look and is patient for the right piece. Call it $3k- $4k... Heck call it $5k and that seems far more reasonable for a franken V72 6263.

I believe that's adeeos (Kevin)...

FrankenDaytona....

I never use the stopwatch on mine anyways, so a V23 was the perfect solution for my needs. My V23 donor was $250; had it serviced and total cost came to $400 said and done for the movement. I think I easily spent that much, if not more with my old mystery movement in overhauls alone.

You can try Casker... Tube tool.

This is a great upgrade to the vintage pieces... I also installed a 2846 into my MBW 1665 earlier this year. For the money, it's an excellent improvement that gets the beat closer to genuine (though still off by a very small amount; 21600bph for the ETA vs 19800bph for the 1570)... Anyhow... A link to my old post, with comparison videos... http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=103

Kingkite is correct- The tube will be very difficult to thread in once at 50% to 100%. Still thread-able, but there will be a significant amount of resistance. On my MBW's and WM's, I have never had to re-tap, so that is why my prior comment was that 'typically' the threads don't need to be retapped. I simply thread the crown onto the tube, and then thread the tube into the case and seat it. That's not to say that all do not; afterall, your mileage may vary. If you plan on doing a number of these, then you should probably invest in the tube installation tool. The gent's tool will seat the tubes for either Twonlock or Triplock (i.e. 6mm and 7mm).

Sign me up... I'll take two!

How were you trying to seat the tube?

Neil, Many thanks! Your kind words mean a lot to me! ...I am humbled...

Okay... Technically, the parts are Swiss on the DateJust and the Daytona; the Sub is a combination of rep and gen parts with an ETA inside... The assembly took place in the U.S. and the hand assembling is Japanese. For further clarification... I am not a dealer. The watches are not for sale, as they are made for my own personal enjoyment and collection As most here know, I have a few others I have done as well as a few in progress... Very nice, Neil! I am always a fan of your work... May I ask what steps you took to achieve this image?

Indeed he is

What are you looking to have done? Movement work? Case work? Some watchmakers/repairers are hesitant to work on Chinese movements (due to lack of parts availability), but are willing to service Swiss ETAs. Some don't care either way, but make no guarantees. Most should have the capability to do case work, though that might be limited to what you want done. As far as recommendations go... I have none. But I only raise these questions as it might provide some useful information to other members so as they can give a better recommendation (if possible).

A couple of Japanese made reps... But, only because the builder (that being me) is Japanese...

Nice... Very nice!

It's one of them there pens that can be erased?