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ubiquitous

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Everything posted by ubiquitous

  1. I have no idea what you guys are talking about, but I do like the results!
  2. Absolutely fantastic piece, P. I hope this one sticks around in your collection! Cheers! //ubi
  3. Actually, I just used a toothpick! Very low-tech method... But hey, it works! You really can't beat gen when it comes down to it. But finding a decent priced example (especially for matte) can require a bit of patience. However, good deals are out there. For example, I picked my gen dial up for $620.00 US shipped, purchased from a seller in France. Not much more than an NDT or one of the custom dials I had made. And here's another that recently sold for $400: Meters First 5513 dial A little scuffed, but a coat of clear matte over the top would really help to improve the overall aesthetics...
  4. Well, the thicker gasket should provide some material for the bezel to seat against, as opposed to seating to just the case (I'm of the understanding that the bezel is only pressing to the small ring at the base of the rehaut lip). So, if the bezel is pressed to the gasket, this should provide for better water resistance and should hold the crystal on, as it's creating a seal from the exterior of the gasket. As for where or how to find a gasket to work- I would mic the measurements of your current gasket, and the I.D. of your bezel. Then, maybe see if watchbitz has something that might fit your requirements. Or, a less scientific approach would be to obtain a couple of different gaskets for a 25-295 crystal; aftermarket and gen, they all seem to have slightly varying tolerances. Just start experimenting until one fits...
  5. You could always try a thicker gasket? i.e. same I.D. but larger O.D. You can also try different gasket heights as well to raise or lower the crystal...
  6. Hi gang, Sorry for the late reply- I did indeed modify the NDT dial's lume. I actually scraped the very top surface of the lume off, which resulted in the color you see now on Ronin's watch. It's a bit time consuming and requires a steady hand to get the indicies as even and consistent as possible, but it turned out quite nice (the lume started as that yellow-ish tint). The hands were tinted with a pigment dye. Kind of interesting in that the tone actually lightened up quite a lot over the course of a week. I did a 2nd coat; hopefully the tone held up. Hope this helps! //ubi
  7. Gen values of my frankens: Rolex Submariner 5514 (no logo) ~ $40,000.00(?) US Rolex Daytona 16520 ~ $10,000.00 US Tudor OysterDate Chronograph 7032 ~ $20,000.00 US Panerai PAM002 Pre-A ~ $30,000.00(?) US IWC 3717-04 ~ $5,000.00 US Total ~ $105,000.00 Actual build costs: Rolex Submariner 5514 (no logo) ~ $4,120.00 US Rolex Daytona 16520 ~ $4,300.00 US Tudor OysterDate Chronograph 7032 ~ $4,490.00 US Panerai PAM002 Pre-A ~ $1,290.00 US IWC 3717-04 ~ $1,260.00 US Total ~ $15,460.00
  8. LOL... cskent, I already PM'd you! Yes, I'm quite excited about this...
  9. If both is not an option, then white would be my choice...
  10. To remove the hands, you'll need a tool to pull them, along with a dial protector to ensure that the dial isn't scratched in the process. You would basically line up all the hands at 12:00 and start pulling in succession. To remove the dial- There are two clamps that hold the dial feet that are accessible from the rotor side of the movement. The clamps swing out and once disengaged, you can lift the dial from the movement. In this pic, you can see the clamps: Hope this helps! //ubi
  11. Edwin, In order to repair the keyless works, you'll have to uncase the movement and then remove the dial and hands to gain access.
  12. Happy belated father's day to all!
  13. Beautiful... Absolutely beautiful....
  14. Is it an either/or question? How about BOTH?? That's my vote, anyways...
  15. Sorry for the late reply, gang; haven't had the opportunity to log in for a few days, so I'm just catching up. Thanks again for the kind comments! Been wearing this one for the past week or so while travelling, and it has been the perfect companion! Now time to focus on the next project... And I have a few others that could use some finishing as well (this one included). All in due time, I suppose All the best! //ubi
  16. Do you have any pics? From what you've said, things don't add up. 19mm bracelet... 455B ends should be for a 20mm... 93250 marked clasp is also for a 20mm bracelet (wider center links). Would like to see what this odd creature looks like...
  17. DJ's after dark... I thought this was going to be one of those dirty, XXX topics with a subject line like that. Instead, all I find are... DateJusts?!
  18. Think freddy333 posted on this. I believe the long, horse faced one gives the guy a DateJust with some mumbo jumbo scribed on the back.
  19. My take away from this is- You should only be worried if all 10 of these are applicable to one's life, right? i.e. if you read through that list and can only identify with, say... 9 of those signs, then everything is okay, no?
  20. 100% confirmed genuine lumi service hands. That's what I used for my 5514 project, except I had Zigmeister relume mine to match the original tritium of my dial:
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