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sneed12

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Everything posted by sneed12

  1. This isn't really true. Take a look at one sometime. It's a 2813 with an additional wheel on top just like a 2893 or GMT modded 2836 is. The biggest difference is that due to the way the calendar plate on the 2813 is designed, the new GMT wheel fits underneath it. On the modded 2836 the GMT wheel is held down by the dial and a bent washer. (That sounds janky, but on the other hand the hour wheel of a factory ETA 2824 is held down the same way).
  2. There are 1675s with open 6/9 with and without flattop 3's, and both white and silver datewheels. Depends on what got replaced when during which service in what RSC. I picked this datewheel because I like it. Same reason the dial has superlume, even though it's marked T<25 and "shouldn't" glow anymore (a few of the earliest Luminova dials had the Swiss T marking).
  3. Fine with a datewheel overlay, just like every other Rolex rep
  4. Just pics--I had an hour to kill between conference calls today And one of a Sub, just for grins
  5. Did you try doing a search for "sneed12" and "gmt"? http://www.rwg.cc/topic/140570-comparative-review-bk-transformer-and-noob-gmtexplorer-hybrid/page__hl__+sneed12%20+gmt#entry1045103 http://www.rwg.cc/topic/144657-making-a-gen-style-16710-case-out-of-a-16570-case-and-tw-bezel-assembly/page__hl__%2Bsneed12+%2Bgmt
  6. Literally just by looking at it, you can tell that the date is too far to the right. That means the dial and crystal are unusable for a decent build. I bought this watch and tore it down for parts because I wanted the CHS movement and hands. There isn't a good GMT Master II 16710 rep out of the box. There are at least two (mine and BK's) build threads about how to build a nice one.
  7. Nope. The Transformer was built on the Noob GMT case. You want a Noob explorer II case. It will take a gen style bezel assembly. Failing that the new superlumed Explorer II case is decent.
  8. "I'm in an unhappy marriage, and we're going to counseling, but I just want to start this thread to learn what is the best way to get rid of the body IF NEEDED." That's a cop out and you know it. The fact that you're asking means you're thinking about doing it. I'm in the US; I'll make the same offer as Andy: send it to me and if it's something simple I'll tell you what it was and try to sort it for you.
  9. Long enough that it unscrews properly, short enough that it will screw down properly without stopping the movement.
  10. Only way to know for sure is to try and fit one.
  11. Do not remove the bezel ring if all you want to do is change the insert. Not worth the risk.
  12. Yeah Off the GMT hand No, unfortunately, this bezel insert is a totally different shape than all of the other rep bezel inserts I have ever seen. It has a really deep "lip" that fits down into the bezel and any rep bezel insert sits way too high in this bezel assembly. On the other hand, I think that you could replace it with a gen bezel assembly entirely.
  13. This is my GMT IIc. I've been working on getting this model right essentially since I started doing mods... over the years I've bought maybe a dozen different ones, 2 or 3 to keep and the rest to tear down for parts. Recently I purchased the new superlumed GMT IIc. I was impressed with the case (rehaut engraving is excellent!) and dial but the hands, as some others have noticed, are quite green. It was no problem for me as I was planning to install the guts from the CHS GMT IIc that came out a while ago. I used the CHS movement and hands (superlumed by Ruprekt), the superlumed dial, and a BK DWO for the build. I painted the bezel with platinum paint, and then it was time to try and figure out how to use a gen crystal with it. When I tore down the new case I was pleasantly surprised to find that the bezel construction is gen-style, that is, there is a retaining ring that presses down over the crystal and the bezel snaps on to that. Unfortunately, the retaining ring is slightly oversized, meaning that gen parts were difficult to fit--the bezel literally falls off if you install a gen crystal and gasket (I tried). The rep gasket is much thicker and holds the bezel on, but the opening is too large to hold a gen crystal (it falls out) since the rep crystal doesn't have a step at the edge. After playing with it for a while, I had the idea of turning the rep gasket over (upside down). This seems to have done the trick, although I still worry a tiny bit about the crystal falling out--I will probably take it apart and use some UV glue to make sure it all stays put. So this watch now has a gen Rolex crystal with AR'ed cyclops installed. Pics: bezel teardown (sorry, I didn't take the actual bezel assembly itself apart, I'd already painted and glued the insert before remembering to start taking pics) Gen crystal installed with gen gasket (you can see that it fits, but it WILL NOT hold the bezel retaining ring on, it just falls off b/c the ID is too large) wonderful black hole effect Finished product after playing with it Few shots of the whole box--it's almost done now, all that's left (I think) is to source and install a gen dial in the white explorer II. Both the super-hulk and the GMT IIc now have gen crystals with AR'ed cyclops installed, and if you look you can see the effect even in th
  14. You can swap everything from the bottom half of a 2846 to a 2824 baseplate. Absolutely everything.
  15. Balance wheel, too, no?
  16. In that case, since you say you don't have the insert installed, the bezel ring must be rubbing on the top of the case. That is literally the only thing it could possibly be touching.
  17. Start from basics: if you install the bezel onto the retaining ring when both are off the watch, will it turn?
  18. If the retaining ring is pushed too far down, the bezel will not turn. Make sure you have the proper o-ring underneath it. If necessary, you can raise it up a razor blade's width.
  19. And the 2824 just barely works. 2892 is really a better bet, the extra 0.3mm makes a big difference. Remember you have to leave a bit of space under the dial for the DWO.
  20. There isn't a BK for Omega precisely because Omega parts can be purchased and they fit ETA movements. People pretty much just go franken. Why do anything else? A franken PO and a BK Submariner will be priced very similarly.
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