sneed12

Dammit... now I just learned that the DW bezel on my Spinmaster is no good compared to the WatchNY bezel. There goes some more cash.

I've seen at least two franken 16610s built off of the SA3135 movement here at the forums... gen dial/hands, SA3135, Sean or TC case. I wouldn't build one like that--I personally prefer ETA movements, honestly, and I wouldn't sink that much money into a rep--but they were pretty damn nice.

Who are you?

Yes, a gen GMT hand for a 1675 will fit a 2893. But none of the other hands will.

I kind of like the more intense orange on the rep...

I think the experiment is at an end for now. The 2824 mainplate I was using has a broken-off bit stuck in the pallet fork jewel in the mainplate. I could not get the broken bit out. I tried popping the jewel out, but I can't seem to press a replacement back in. On the other hand, I was able to put all of the 2824 stuff onto the 2846 mainplate... As you can see from those pics, it's running. At 28.8 kbph. I installed some spare hands left over from a long-ago experiment and it even seems to be keeping good time. So I started with 1 dead 2824 and 1 running 2846; I ended up with 1 running 2846 mainplate with assorted 2824/2836 parts on it (all Swiss) and a REALLY dead 2824, along with a small pile of broken spare parts. That's actually not so bad, considering. If anyone has a dead 2824, I'd be interested in trying again. I kept the low-beat balance, pallet fork, gear train, and escape wheel separate. Should be an easy drop-in if I ever get the chance.

The problem you have with a list like that is not the gen parts, but the rep parts. After all, rep parts hardly have unique version or part numbers.

More details: I only have 1 movement holder, so I improvised a second: junk dial stuck into old Noob case 2824 is stripped entirely on the bottom, except the pallet fork You can see the difference between the 2824 and 2846 escape wheels Escape wheel installed. This is where I went off the rails, but didn't notice right away--one of the escape wheel teeth is sitting on top of the pallet fork Bridges from the 2846 are interchangeable with 2824, interestingly At this point, the pallet fork wouldn't turn. Instead of taking it apart and trying again, like an idiot, I tried to force it a bit and popped one of the jewels out. Here it is loose I went and got another pallet fork out of my collection of dead movements (I have quite a few) and tried again, no luck. I'll try the pallet fork from the 2846 when I get a chance. Maybe they're not interchangeable or something.

I think I might have just destroyed a movement. Oh well. I gotta head into the office, I'll try to take another look at this next week. For now I'm throwing in the towel, I can't leave stuff like this laying out because my kids are visiting.

They look the same to me... I guess I'll find out

Doesn't work with the AP diver datewheel also, I had a dead 2824 and a running 2846 lying around and I'm sick that way Did you mean the mainspring or the balance wheel/hairspring? I will swap the balance wheel but I can't imagine why the mainspring/barrel would be different...

Trying to build a movement to go into my AP diver v3. I have a 2824 and a 2846 sitting on the table in front of me. I stripped down the underside of the 2824 Now what? Do I have to remove the pallet fork as well? What do I have to install from the 2846--just the balance wheel, escape wheel and gear train?

It may have. I've never seen one.

We haven't seen ANY Rolex reps with blue superlume. Blue lume is, from my understanding, not as easy as green to get right. Also, while the new superlumed reps are light-years better than the old ones, the lume still isn't as good as WM9 lume was. They have to apply the lume so think it doesn't always have a smooth surface, and it seems like I've seen a lot of lume that wasn't quite white enough.

Came as a set, but did not snap in, I used a couple of dots of glue.

If not, I think if I were you, I'd take a regular cheap $10 bezel insert, bleach it, and then write on it with a sharpie. failing that, I guess you could buy this http://www.10watches.com/apps/webstore/products/show/50556 take a file to it, and make it fit

... can't you just subtract in your head?

After fading

Changed out the bezel ring for one of the new Clark's 1675 bezel rings. Surprised at the difference it made, it's really quite nice and makes a big difference from the 1680 bezel that the watch comes with from the factory. Here's the new edge profile (pic is from Gary) The retaining ring that comes with the Clark's is too small (inside diameter). I decided to use the existing bezel retaining ring, which is too big for the new bezel ring and needed to be shaved around the outside edge, so I stuck it to the end of a drill and went after it with a file. No particular reason to choose one over the other, I just feel it's easier to shave the outside than the inside. Mounted Now I just need to fade the new bezel insert.

What's wrong with the link that someone gave you over at Repgeek?

Still needs a good pearl though... thinking about contacting PbDad, but I think I might want to source a spare dial first and get that relumed as well.

No, the pearl sucks. I'm trying to find a good replacement pearl.

http://www.rwg.cc/to.../page__hl__hulk

I've never seen a front loading navi case. Can you post a pic?

Changed the case back to the correct flat one (found one in the parts box that fit), it comes incorrectly with the bubble caseback from the factory (5513 caseback).