freddy333

Yes, I think that is it (40mm diameter x 16 mm high) A gen 5517 for comparison (40mm diameter x 14mm high) Toss in an NDtrading dial (better, but not exact) & swap out the crown/tube for a gen 24-703 Triplock the crystal for Clark's Tropic 19 (if it will fit the case - someone else might be able to answer that question) the (incorrect) pearl for Ofrei.com's illumines dot the ETA 2836-2 (28.8kbph) for a slow-beat ETA 2846 (21.6kbph - the gen 1520 beats at 19.8kbph) (you will need to search the watch parts houses for this) & strap it to your wrist with Corvus's RAF-style 18mm Bond strap (I would remove the 2nd metal ring, which the original did not have) & you have a pretty nice military Sub for under a grand.

I would ditto most of Ubiquitous's comments. The 2671-2 is just a tad over 17mm in diameter, whereas the 2836 is considerably larger at 25.6mm in diameter. I think jubilee bracelets look nicer on most women, but it is up to your personal taste. I am also 1 of those who prefer all steel vs two-tone (combination of steel with yellow gold highlights) or all yellow gold (that goes for both men's & women's models). And, to answer your question about bezels (the part that fits around the crystal), fluted bezels tend to go better with jubilee bracelets & smooth bezels go better with Oyster (President) style bracelets. To reduce the likelihood of your watch being outted as a fake, I would avoid jewels, yellow gold & any features you do not absolutely need. Were it me, I would get a steel ladies Datejust with a handsome silver dial, classic stick hour markers, fluted bezel & jubilee bracelet. I seriously doubt anyone will call you out while wearing this (as long as you look like you can afford a $5k Rolex watch) This watch will look great with jeans, that little black dress, heels, flats, whatever. At worst, people might see you & think to themselves - 'Oh, I guess she could not afford a gold 1.' In other words, they will just assume the watch is genuine.

Thanks, Ronin, but I am actually back with EIDEs. Same error, same problem.

If I recall correctly, the choices in Acronis were copying by clusters (which I selected) or by files. I only tried Acronis after Ghost (which always worked before) failed to clone bootable drives.

As toomuchgear suggested, you will pretty much have to modify whatever case you get if you want to keep the costs to a reasonable simmer. Although I have not built a 5517 myself, I suspect 1 of Silix's low end reps (most cost less than $100) could be tapped for a donor case. But you will still need to mod it as toomuchgear described. On 2nd thought, I seem to recall stumbling across a 5517 rep on one of our collectors' sites that had permanently fixed springbars. Unfortunately, the rest of the watch was rubbish, but if you can locate that collector again, it might save you a few bucks & a bit of work.

The stem must be matched to the movement, not the watch. If your rep contains an ETA (Swiss or Asian), you can get a stem from any of the watch parts houses - ofrei.com, cousinsuk.com, etc.

If your watch is going to sit idle for more than a few weeks, I would give it a full wind (40 turns) once every month. That should keep the oils circulating without causing any appreciable wear. A good watch winder would be my 2nd choice since they do not cause any more wear than wearing your watch. The 1 thing I would not do is let the watch sit idle for long periods (more than 5-6 months) of time. Unless, of course, you are willing to have the watch professionally overhauled before wearing it again.

Middle 1 today (Saturday)

Here are a couple of old Daytona pics I have handy

Exactly. Everything is the same & in the same physical & logical locations. The only things that differ are the new drives' physical sizes & drive serial numbers, neither of which should cause BSD to be unable to lose the boot loader. It does not make any sense?

Thanks, Pug. But both discs are EIDE, so the drive assignments should be exactly the same. The only hitch is that the original 2 40gig EIDE drives were configured as a mirrored RAID & I cloned each of the 2 40gigers to a new 160gig EIDE drive while disconnected from the RAID card. But, again, this is the exact procedure I used when I cloned the existing 40gigers from the previous 20gigers, so it ought to have worked. Not sure why it did not? (Originally, I was switching over to SATA drives, but when I 1st ran into the booting problem, I figured it had to do with the differing drive assignments, so I returned the SATA drives & swapped them for the current 160 EIDEs to, theoretically, make things easy.)

Ending the work week wearing my Bond-ish Sub

How many shoes/handbags does your wife have?

I am not familiar with this watch, but mineral glass has a green tint to it when viewed from the side. Sapphire is either clear or white. If the lens is a sandwich composed of both materials, it should be pretty obvious. Also, you might check out the thread I posted several months ago that compared a non-AR vs an AR cyclops (done by Chief) on the GMTIIC (it was not very successful).

Yes, when I have cloned these drives in the past (using Norton Ghost), that is the way it worked - everything, including BSD's loader, got cloned to the new drive. That is why I am confused here. Obviously, the loader did not get cloned. I remember there is a manual way to install it, but it has been far too many years since I dabbled in BSD to remember how to do it. But it has not been so long that I can still remember the last time I tried to do something like that (when I was not sure of what I am doing) and ended up losing data or screwing up the complete install, which I cannot risk this time. So if you (or anyone else) know how to get the system started, please let me know (and thanks).

I am trying to troubleshoot this game on a neighbor's PC. He is running Vista 64 with 4 gigs of ram & duo core E4600 Intel cpu with NiVidia GeForce 7100 video & all current drivers/service packs. Basically, the game is sort of running, but it is like watching a slide show - a very slow slideshow. It runs so slow that it is completely unplayable. There is a 5 second delay from the time you accelerate until the car actually moves. But, by then, you are already into a wall, which you watch via a series of image slices. Even though the system appears to exceed the games' minimum requirements, it seems like it just requires alot more horsepower than the hardware can provide, which is why I suspect it defaults to a group of settings that require more power. Unfortunately, we cannot find any game instructions on how to change the settings. I was able to get into the Options (painfully slowly), but it only offers color charts to set your monitor settings under 'Video' & sound levels under 'Audio'. Unlike the last NFS game I played some years ago, I cannot find anything that controls the actual video & screen resolution settings. Is anyone familiar with this game?

Update - I borrowed a copy of Acronis & was able to clone the old WD 40gig EIDE drive onto a new WD 160gig EIDE drive, but, now, BSD will not boot. When I cloned the existing 40gig drive (from a previous 20gig drive), the system restarted just fine. But, now, I get No /boot/loader >>FreeBSD/i386boot Default: 0:ad(0,a)/kernel boot: No /kernel Obviously, the boot loader is missing, but I do not understand why it did not get cloned along with everything else. Also, how do I get it installed without damaging or losing any of the existing data on the drive?

The pushers seem, to me, to be symmetrically located, which means the movement cannot be a Valjoux 72 (or 23). But the prices are correct for the time period.

Nice piece, red.

The 'Mick Jagger' 6538, named not because he wears this model, but because it has an ugly/hot face There is just something about these extreme tropical dials that turn a classic beauty into a VERY hot babe. This was the look (minus the damage) I was after with my 6536/1 project.

It all depends on the effect you are looking for. For the Sub, I used a q-tip to coat the entire hand with iodine before baking. This tends to age the entire hand, which is good for diving watches (looks like the watch case may have been water damaged at some point many years ago). For the GMT, I used a toothpick to apply the iodine only to the rear of the lume, avoiding the steel as much as possible. Enhanced patination is art, not science & you are pretty much making the rules up (to suit your needs) as you go. 1 other thing - when baking delicate hands, keep a careful watch as you bake. At 500+ degrees, the dividing line between perfection & ruin can be as narrow as a minute.

Ditto Ubi.

For enhanced patination (vintage appearance), I usually apply iodine to the lume & then bake hands in the oven at 550 degrees until golden brown (or as required) Dial lume I leave to a specialist. However, a fine coat of matte varnish applied to an entire dial will tone down the shiny bits on dials that should not have any.

The appropriate question is why wouldn't you (get a gen Rolex for your 50th)? At such a milestone, I think it is time to join The Club. And any Rolex will do - just follow your heart (& wallet).

On the 1 hand & on the other hand