I do not know what 'Y' is & I believe Phong & NDtrading are selling similar cases. These are made to fit gen 1570 movements & probably the most accurate, but they are also the most expensive. MBW cases are good, but will require some grinding to get the gen movement to fit, since MBW cases are made to fit ETA movements.
Wearing the GMTIIC today, but it was a nice day (Thursday) to do a double-take
p.s. Mods - RWG is running even slower than usual today. Nearly 3 minutes to load this page & similar times throughout RWG (no problems on any other sites).
The CWP insert is close to what the vintage insert looked like, but, with the exception of the pearl (illumines dot) which you can get from Ofrei.com, this 1 looks exactly like the insert that Rolex fits during service
I have never had to modify or change any of the parts in the ETA that came in a rep watch to fit another overlay. Simply remove the existing overlay (that comes with nearly every decent Rolex rep) & glue on the replacement, if that is what you are doing (swapping overlays).
That is the craziest watch I have ever seen. Even the numbers on the 'Crazy Numbers' watch make sense (once you figure it out), but this is ridiculous.
I have only fit V72s & A7750s into DW cases, but, depending on how well your particular case was machined, it will likely require some degree of grinding (many DW cases do, regardless of what movement they were made for or what movement you are trying to fit). But, dimensionally, the V23 is just a thinner V72, so it should fit.
I think alot depends on whether you want people to recognize your watch as being a luxury watch or whether you just want something visibly accurate for your own benefit. In the former case, I would stick with a plain, steel Rolex without a date or other complication. No gold, no jewels & no complications. Less is more when it comes to (accuracy in) rep watches.
In the latter case, you have alot more latitude since fewer people know other brands or what they actually look like.
I have to agree with JoJo here. I think what you have done with the transparency is brilliant & easily good enough for any non-gen-powered projects I might consider. The only way anyone would be able to detect the absence of brushing of the metal is to view the watch close-up with a loupe. But I think that anyone getting that close with a loupe will certainly have a wealth of other things to call you out on before they cite you because of the granular texture of your datewheel.
I would want to see more of Yuki's case, especially the Hev side & caseback (he only displays the front). But if it, as I suspect it may, turns out to be the same case that NDtrading sells for 4-5 times as much, then I would ditto ShawnBeever. Otherwise, with the caveats SB indicated, you can do alot with an MBW, a dremel, a handful of gen parts & alot of time & patience
Ditto Avitt & Stilty.
Depending on which end links they have (the end links are 'permanently' attached), 1 end of the bracelet will have 7835/19 pressed into the last link before the end link
If the bezel does not turn, the 'flat' tensioning spring below the bezel (which places a small amount of upward pressure on the bottom of the bezel) is either damaged or just bent too much (most likely the latter). However, the bezel on Subs & SDs is designed to stay in position when not being moved. Normally, to move the bezel, you press down on it (this compresses the tensioning spring) & then it should turn freely. If that does not work, I would carefully pry off the bezel using a dull knife (you might want to tape the case wherever you place the knife to protect it from scratches) & try flattening out the tensioning spring. You will probably need to do a few test-fittings to get the spring tension correct, but it is pretty easy to what is happening once you remove the bezel.
Based on the pics, it looks like Watcheden is just Idolreplicas with yet another new name (the 4th or 5th that I am aware of) & these guys are typical rep sellers (liars & cheats). So buyer beware.