hologramet

His blog is down and not coming up again. The best option to read it nowadays, it unfortunately at RWI: https://www.replica-watch.info/threads/tc-sub-blog.359949/ Email TC Please read carefully before email me. I. Shipping & Turnaround Time: Shipping CONUS is $6.8 via USPS flat rate priority mail. I won't charge you bull**** handling fee or packaging fee. I ship to APO/FPO addresses, but I can't be accountable for customs delay/inspection of the destination countries. For members of military personals in EU, it is best to use my "EU Member Friendly Shipping Program" to save your shipment from customs troubles. EU Member Friendly Shipping Program, I charge an US$22 flat rate from EU members to safely deliver your TC watches. How does it work? I ship your TC watch from the States to a colleague's place in UK then have her ship it from there. That shipping is with Royal Mail International Signed For. It could easily gets £10 ~ £11 a small packet. Consider my cost of shipping Express Mail (EMS) from US to UK is $54 starting rate, I'd say my US$22 flat rate EU Member Friendly Shipping Program is cheap and reliable. It frees packages from customs seizure for all EU members. That turnaround time is 12 to 14 days from the moment the batch gets shipped out from the US end. Asia/Oceanic orders will be shipped out to Katherine in China first, after she receives the batch. She will then forward out the packages via EMS to members. The cost is a flat rate of $20. Since these are out of the CONUS/EU region, custom inspection will happen. I cannot guarantee custom free shipments to these places. Insurance is available upon request for all regions. If you did not request for insurance and a package was lost/damaged/stolen I will not be responsible for it. For parts orders, I now ship to US members only from the US; to EU members only from UK. To members in the rest of the world, I ship from China. There's no reason to choose US shipping if you live in Canada, Japan, South Korea, Philippines, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia and New Zealand. Turnaround time is 12 to 14 days generally speaking for parts orders. If you decide to refuse any shipment, or neglect the postal notice left at your door or forget to pick up the package, causing the package return, you are responsible for the original shipping charges to you, any duties, taxes and/or customs charges that are incurred on the package (on both the original and return shipments), and the cost of returning the package to us. This amount will be subtracted from your merchandise refund. II. PayPal & Other Means of Payment: PayPal is the preferred method of payment (on small ticket size orders under $300) for members with good transaction history. To me that means you have 3+ feedback score on any of the major rep watch forums. PayPal fee, I hate that, too, but PayPal fee is mandatory per forums rules now. For domestic members, that means US account holders, PayPal fee is 2.9%. For EU members and all international members, PayPal fee is 4%. If you ain't an US account holder but you have an US shipping address, that PayPal fee is still 4%. Please don't put down anything in PayPal note box. Just leave it blank. On larger ticket size orders depending on your location payment methods vary. So when you email me, do let me know where you are located. III. I Am Not a Rep Dealer I'm not doing this for profit. This is the hobby I picked up after an ugly divorce, and I'm not making money out of passing TC Subs/watches/parts to fellow members so I WON'T take returns. A clown bought a TC 93250 V2 bracelet from me but he didn't mention it is for the Sub-C 116610LN in the beginning. He found out the bracelet does not fit on his Sub-C he turned back wanted a refund for that. What kind of joke is that? I should suck because you didn't know better? Well, if you're a complete newbie, leave me alone! Go get the Noobmariner I believe you'll be a lot happier than get the TC Sub from me. TC Subs/watches from my hands are identical. So don't talk to me like I'm a rep dealer in China and asking for QC pictures before shipping - I loathe that! Don't ask me stupid questions like "how close your TC Sub is to gen?" "what if I don't like your watch can I return it for refund?" "what makes your TC Sub more expensive than other TDs have to offer?" NO, NO, NO! Don't even bother to email me if you have a mind set like that! If you want cheap stuff go to other dealers on the forums don't come to me! I make TC Subs because I enjoy the peacefulness assembling the parts together. I do not charge my labor and time making TC watches so don't email me asking for a bargain. That is SO CHEAP! And I hate that. It pisses me off when members email me and talk to me like I am one of those dealers in China. And DON'T be jumpy! I hate people sending me multiple emails a day with just a sentence or two pushing me for a reply. I do not live in front of my computer screen. When you email me for a purchase, state clearly which model (that I can offer) you want, your location, and any question you have. (that have not been covered in my blog or on the forums) And I will do my best to reply you in a timely manner. If I don't reply right away it usually means I am on the road traveling, really caught up with my day job, or working on a solution for your issue. Regardless, be patient, DON'T PUSH ME! This is my freaking hobby, not something I make money for a living. I've said it out loud I AM NOT A REP DEALER in the beginning. I AM A CRAZY SON OF A [censored] PURSUING THE PERFECT SUBMARINER! I want a perfect sub so bad it's like I'm cloning my ex to preserve every bit that is best of her at 25. Yup, I'm that crazy in this! I always tell what part of TC Subs/watches is less than satisfactory. For example, I told every member that the V1 TC bezel insert's pearl shape does not look good but the pearl lume matches with the indices and hands. A gen bezel insert was recommended nonetheless. I have never claimed TC Sub a 1:1 rep. I said it is the best in quality I have found so far. Senior members identified my findings of TC Sub a WM9 legacy which was and still is priced way over my current rate. Members whom I passed these TC Subs to know its value and none came bargaining for a discount. We share a common goal - PURSUING the PERFECT SUB. So don't come back to me complaining you found a flaw here and there or they are not 1:1 to gen so you want reimbursement. It's a cheap act and I won't accept that as I have never advertised TC Sub a 1:1 rep. You are not a customer if you buy a TC Sub/watch from me, you are a FELLOW TC SUBER! You found a part that is flawed? An open discussion is welcomed! Like Coolchu and RSH found TC DWO (date wheel overlay) has grayish white color base paint than gen, I can't reimburse Coolchu and RSH or any other members whom have already bought so many DWO from me! But guess what I did? With help from janeto72 made a poll with members, I took out $3,000, that is in dollars, from my own pocket and have the DWO maker make a new batch of TC DWO, which bear the right marks, the right white color base paint, the right date font, and the right raised high gloss print in amount of 200 pieces, (the DWO maker's MOQ). There are so many DWO makers in GD, but only a couple have the right equipments and skills to produce such quality parts. So are TC Sub part makers. They are of a very rare breed in China they very seldom make rep parts any more. Check out my "Tour to the dial and hands factory". These good men do business with me only because of their higher rank - my contact told them so. Guess who will get this particular part at unit cost then? That's right! TC Subers! None others including those Chinese rep dealers will be able to access premium parts like these. IV. Did You Read My Terms Above? Thank you! My email address is "tc670207@gmail.com". Please DO mention your forum handle or screen name and the forum you participate most frequently in the beginning in the email, the item which you wish to purchase, and your location. For example: "Hi TC, I'm bla bla bla on XXX forum. I want to buy a TC XXX. I am from Califorina....ect" And lastly, if you're foreign to English. Please at least try to put your words in plain English. I'm from California so basically I have neighbors from around the world. Although I can make very good guesses but putting what you're trying to say in strange vocabularies will just slow down my reply time. Thank you! TC

Seriously well done!! Your builds are an inspiration! Care to elaborate on the exact "recipe" for achievinhg the faded bezel insert?

You're welcome fellow countryman!

You know what I think of your work RJ... c'est terrible

Lovely C!

I'm pretty sure that he either took or... he didn't (sic) by now...

216A? 809H? Noob v7 116610/114060 Same midcase, same "wrong" 116610 engraving, the 116610 gives the option to go gen 3130 (or semi-Yuki) Bezel insert Noob v7, have it relumed with Superluminova C1 for a 809H, remove pearl, fill with Epoxy, then Volvo Passion Red laquer (there's a reason for my profile picture), then finish with Loctite Superglue as a varnish (yes, it sounds crazy) but it's basically the only varnish I've found (and I've tried a million times) that lets you get a really sturdy and hard surface, that will take basically any liquid possible, and also polishable. Hands? Gen Rolex 116613/9 and relume, or BP ETA 116613/9 and relume or TC LV v2, gold-plated and relume Crystal.. That's the tricky one... A real acrylic is most likely best and cheapest option. An alternative is a ProfSteve 2AR crystal (not correct shape though) That's about it. For 216A, a Noob v7 must be remachined.. I know a few options, but it ain't supercheap..

What a Noob v7 can look like after some work (ignore the tooling marks, not done with it yet). In case not 100% obvious, it'll be a 809H when done.

I thought I already answered this for you mate?

Exactly... A 4130 is 2800 USD... If you can find one that is. No Zeniths, Datejusts or other watches to extract one from.

When several members, with good experience with modern 5/6-digit Rollies say that it's utterly impossible to sell at that price, and the general consensus remains "not guilty until someone actually gets scammed"... We have to be a bit more critical. Who in their right mind sells a watch for 40-50% as a package of initial parts costs. It didn't make any sense. If someone would sell a Phong case 5513 Gen dial Gen hands Gen 15x0 movement Gen crown/tube Gen 93150 For 3000 USD everyone would say something's fishy, and there is an absurd surplus of 15x0 movements, as far as 4130, there are no cheap watches to steal the mvmt from. It's 2500 EUR from Rolex, if you can purchase a NOS replacement unit, which you can't,, it's much harder than just a restricted dial/hands. If dbane would say a 5512 case is fake, it's fake. If sacsah1 says it's a fake it's a fake. I may not be a Daytona expert, but helping a good friend build a nothing-except for-midcase-is-rep Franken sure has taught me a lot. What is the morale of the story? If someone says it's too good to be true, only the "I might win the lottery if I buy that ticket"-part of our frontal cortex (read actually midbrainl doesn't want to listen. And no logic will tell it otherwise. When it talks, ignore it.

A 5513 with that dial should not have PCG (pointed crown lugs!). Basically most gilt ring chapter dial 5512 have SCG or PCG. And of course original dialed ones with service dial, as the PCG you show above. There are about 4 different lug types on 5512/5513 SQUARE crown guards (SCG) Eagles beak-type POINTED crown guard (PCG) "Regular" PCG Classic crown guards Don't mix up the PCG and classic CG's as they are completely different, and usually trying to make PCG without enough material to work with doesn't look genuine at all. With that dial you should have classic crown guards, and focus on 1964+ models for a correct reference. You have some pretty prominent tooling marks that I would try to buff out. Do it by hand with diamond files (dont press too hard) and sandpaper on wooden sticks to avoid smoothing out the contours too much. Good luck! It's a steep learning curve!

Hi mate, have anymore of which dial? Read the above post and please write your questions in the thread or via PM.

There is a minimum 5 buyers on the 809H, that means 6, 7, or even the 10 won't be a problem. However on the 216A, they're already ordered, so an extra batch would need another 5 people. Always money up front, what I wanted to avoid, has already have issues with one buyer in the 216A that still hasn't paid. In the 809H batch it seems like there are 5 buyers.... ------------------ Let's redo... red = spot taken, and confirmed/paid orange, spot taken, but not confirmed/paid (yet) green = available A1) 216A 29mm ETA (batch 1) 1- @hologramet 2- @GBOGH 3- @ww12345 4- @ant1 5- @aphillipe (not paid yet, has good reasons, but dial might go up for sale to other interested member soon) A2) 216A 29mm ETA (batch 2) 1-? 2-? 3-? 4-? 5-? B1) 809H 29mm ETA (batch 1) 1- @hologramet 2- @DVNE? 3- @aphillipe? 4- @ww12345 5- @netniet 6-? C1) 29mm 6538 (ETA) (batch 1) 1- @dpap 2- @ww12345 3- @hava 4-? 5-? Can the mentioned guys above please contact me via PM and we will do the payment stuff to go ahead with 809H (since it should be full now).

Any interest for the last 809H dial? So we hopefully can get that ball rolling too?

Yeah baby... Still some stuff left to do, but they're coming... Original:

Great! Sometimes beauty and humor, is in the eye (read: mind) of the beholder. As long as it's just a joke, it's just a joke... Merry Christmas everyone! No inspired examples to show guys?

Not repped, I've done 2 similar builds so, Your best option is starting with a Noob 114060 (to get the best case and bracelet base) make a custom dial from the Noob dial (Helenarou could probably reprint + gold plate the indices also relume while you're at it). // 350 USD + aprox 150-200 USD Gold plate the hands (you're already doing it + relume). //100 USD Add enamel color in the red triangle. //0 USD Remove CGs + chamfer the lugs //100 USD Redrill +tap for Athaya big crown // 30 + 35 USD That's your best option to make the best looking rep. Myself, I find the Tempus Machina 216A a much better watch, so the road to that build is a bit different (but similar) Good luck!

Exactly... Either a gen spec 1680/1665 case, 26,5mm dial opening Or a regular rep (e.g. Cartel 5512/5513) and either open the rehaut 0.5mm or remove 0.5mm on the dial.

The Sub-C is made for 29mm dials, the dial opening is >27,5mm. So that's a no-go... Secondly putting a friction type bezel is most likely possible, but there will be lot of trial and error and will most likely not end too well... If I were you, contact TigerConcept, if I remember correctly one of his old no-cg cases had a smaller dial opening and old possibly fit your dial... Also... Plexi is much easier to accomodate also friction type bezel... Or why not use a HR 5513/5517 case? Shave the dial outer diameter and make a fantasy Milsub? The possibilities are endless, but ask yourself... In which end to start? The dial is complicated in several ways. 1) Fantasy 2) 0,5mm too large for 5512/3 cases. Good luck, just ask if there's anything I can help with,

Beautiful work and photo! What paint did you use in the LP-engraving?

Now I'm sitting here with... mini-Fiddy 2 PAM390s 1 PAM587 1 690 and 1 622 I need help...

Ok, so vintage Rolex, that's my thing. Now I'm in a completely different ball field. So.. I have a couple of projects going and will split it up in simple questions. 1) The River 6154-case (new) anyone knows where I can get a low-dome plexi? 2) PAM622 v2 V6F, what diameter is the sapphire? Any tips on a plexi that will fit? Preferably Sternkreutz or similar. Also low-dome. 3) I bought a double-AR ProfSteve 35.5 mm diameter crystal, thinking it would replace a broken Noob PAM390. Which... it doesn't. Any tips on a gasket that will work?

So is it gilt or is it printed? Your post says both?

It's not gilt, it's yellow print. As far as I know there is no such dial in existence. It tries to emulate gilt, ergo the brass, but it looks like the dials that Phong uses. Compare them to e.g. dials from MQ. Check For example:.