Dizzy

Its it worth $200? Wouldnt a new ETA2826-2 serve the same purpose for $120?

There is no regular retention ring on this one. Its the style where the crystal sort of pressure fits into the top of the rehaut with the help of a little glue. Because of this the crystal sits about 3 or 4mm higher than it normally would. A T-19 would work with a little crystal glue, but the diameter is a bit off because the rep crystal is a weird size. Also you would need to take about 5mm off the height to get it to look like freddys pics above. After I shaved down the T-21, it fit pretty snug. I only used a little UV cement to help seal it up from moisture. To remove my new crystal, I need to pop it out from the inside with my thumb. This is the crystal that came with the watch....

Ya i get the same problem when I try to edit a post also. The bezel was VERY hard to get off because the spring is very heavy. I actually bent my bezel a little and had to straighten it. I think the secret is to wedge a knife blade under it and as soon as you get a little lift, turn the bezel and "walk" the bezel off as you turn it around. You might need 3 hands to accomplish this though. I havent tried putting it back on yet. I am hoping to only have to do it once.

The T-21 diameter is larger than a T19. The stock plexi was also slightly larger. The T-21 fits nice and snug with a little sanding on the outer edge. Its shorter also so you dont end up with that crazy tall superdome.

Thats a good price. The only thing I really like on this watch is the crown. Had to install some rubber o-rings because it was missing a one inside the crown. Threads are kinda rough though. I'll pop over there and check it out.

Armed with a lack of information, and foggy advice, I decided to pick up a 6538. I've never owned or worn a no crown guard Submariner before. I was sort of worried about the smaller size and wasn't sure how it would look on the wrist. Originally I was going to get a Yuki 5510 case set and dial, throw in an ETA and call it a day, but the case sets are so darn expensive, especially if i wasn't even sure i would like it. I thought I might do a trial run first. So I ordered one of these from one of the dealers for $188 Everything is pretty ugly on it except for the 8mm crown. The dial looks like plastic, hands are silver instead of gold, the crystal is like a super high t-39 superdome and looks ridiculous, and of course the lugs are too thick. Oh yeah, and the funny thing is, between one lug is says "Registered Design 6538" and between the other lug, it says "Stainless Steel 5508" .... Hhhmmmmm.... Time to get to work I threw on my 7206 bracelet to quickly see how it looked and felt on the wrist... I like it. Time to take it apart today and work on the dial, hands, bezel, insert and install a modified T-21 plexi. More rounded than a regular T-19 and much shorter in height. I know its not the right superdome, but its all I had in my parts bins. Stay tuned for more to come...

Dont forget that the depth of the rehaut will affect the magnification. If the dial is further from the plexi, then the mag will be bigger. MBW is pretty close to gen, but not sure about all the new ones.

Yeah gens are ment to be worn... most gens... I wouldn't wear yours though, its too nice. Its almost in the same league as Comex Subs and Milsubs.

Gen DSSD dials are all matt black incase there is any confusion. The difference on the Mk1 and Mk2 is the fonts/spacing and the cornet is different. <br><br>I would love to see a pic of your gen DSSD dial. I havent seen one without the thick saphire crystal distorting it. <br><br>dizz<br>

My lord, the first time I read this, I thought you said "Each gouge from a bear is a story"... and the funny thing is, I wasnt even surprised. haha. I know you like playing with wild bears up there. Not many dive watches have to be water proof and ALSO grizzly bear resistant! I agree, the is no plexi out there that looks like a gen T-39 superdome. I have one on my 1665 also and nothing even comes close to the clarity and sparkle. One other thing i have noticed is that the gen plexi's are much more scratch resistent than any of the cheap aftermarket crystals. Is that a flat top3 silver datehweel in there also? Keyless works fixed? Now you can finally wear that thing and keep the gen safe inside the house. dizz

I dont see why you would have to swap the canon pin. The only watches I need to swap canon pins in are the ETA6497 and Molinja movements in the Panerai vintage watches. Sometimes in the DG4813 highbeat Asian 21j movement you need to install a taller pin. Heres mine. all gen 16030 except with ETA2836, custom datewheel and Clarkes hands. I know the flat top 3 datewheel is incorrect for this watch but I like it that way! Love those flat top three's!

What movement are you using? 16000 case or 1600 case? If you are installing an ETA2836 into a 16000 case then you dont need to swap the canon pin. I've done lots of these. The stem doesn't line up 100% but it works. cheers dizz<br><br>EDIT - I see in your other post that you have a 1600 case. You need to use a ETA2824 movement on this one because of the piepan dial. <br>

Hans Wilsdorf just rolled over in his grave...

Ive seen that first pic on a number of gen forums over the past years. Its a beautiful picture so I can see why people want to use it. Hopefully it doesnt get too much attention. dizz

Does the v72 bridge fit on the v23? I didnt think it would so I never asked. Can you share how you aged the dial?? It looks really good.

Yeah i would sand it by hand. I dont have much luck using dremels on round or curved surfaces like on the inside of a bezel ring. Doing it by hand takes a LOT longer but I think you get a better result. I dont plan to use my silver bezel anyways so I havent bothered to modify it yet.

My black bezel fit around my T-21 perfectly, but my silver bezel isnt even close to fitting. Its going to take a lot of sanding to make it fit.

... And now a year later they are $1200. Are you looking for a genuine Rolex bracelet or just a good replica one? What watch is it going on? Vintage or solid endlink? I have a couple extra custom-built and vintagized 93150 rep/aftermarket bracelets that I've used on various watches, and I also have a brand new steel bracelet off a seconds at 6 Daytona if that would help you out? Other options are to check out the sales parts forum here. You can sometimes find a cheap bracelet off a Submariner for $50 or so. cheers dizz

Have you guys seen this yet? Wont be unveiled until next week at Basil 2011 My link

HAHAHA yeah I saw that on TRF yesterday! LOL Someone was saying it was the new updated Exp2 going to be released at Basil next week. Its horrible! There are leaked photos out of the new Exp2 though. Looks like the same 40mm case but with bigger crown, maxi markers and orange GMT hand.

A couple of the watches in those pics look like they might be on a wider 20mm oyster. I;ve seen some apparent NOS 7836 bracelets that come with 19mm endlinks. Was that actually an option back in the 70's? I would LOVE to toss this skinny little bracelet on my 6263 and put on a 20mm rivet bracelet with 19mm endlinks. I put one on it before and it looked really good, but it looks a lot different than the skinny 19mm bracelet. Anyone know if a 20mm bracelet with 19mm endlinks was actually an option from the AD? dizz

What movement is that datewheel from?? I also thought the numbers went the wrong way. Is that datewheel off a 3035??? I thought only the 1570 had the flat top 3.

Newer gen subs made after about 1991 dont have lug holes, so none of the 16610 reps have them anymore. I dont know exactly which sub you are looking at, but if you want lugholes then you should go vintage. And if its a vintage without lug holes, then dont buy it.

HA HA even better. He prob got the pic off the net anyways. I didnt even look closely at the pic before, but I have to agree with Zig now that i look at it. I dont mind the look of the dial but the case is definately wrong.