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Some of you may recall my first attempt with customizing a Raffles dial This was the first one.. Before and after. [/url] [url=https://clickpix.org/image/ZhSXQE] Then I came across this gen on ebay....and I was in Awe with the dial.. I had to replicate something similar the water damaged / tropical look is spectacular So I ordered another Raffles dial and went to work.. results : Its not exact but it does have the same feel to it...I really like how it turned out. The hands could be aged a bit more to match the dial but other than that I think its pretty cool. JMB Ver 2 Case Raffles dial Raffles hands Eta Clone 2824 Clarks T21 domed crystal Keep an eye on the M2M forum as I think I might be clearing this and a few others out of my collection to fund some future builds.. Comments and questions always welcomed. Thanks for looking.

Was looking through Trusty's site earlier and came across this 1016 Explorer, which I'm pretty sure is the only cartel 1016 I've seen with drilled lug holes and a proper plexi dome. Still far from perfect — dial numerals are a little wacky, and the drilled holes to some eyes may seem slightly too far inward from the ends of the lugs — but otherwise looks like an improvement over the other 1016 he has for sale, which lacks drilled lugs and whose sapphire crystal is only modestly domed. Hoping he'll put a video up soon. Anyone seen this elsewhere? Or bought one? (Photos via TrustyTime)

Hey all, I've already purchased a gen 1016 dial and a 1560 movement, currently in a 1600 case. Looking to buy JMB's modified 16200 2824 case. Has anyone tried a gen 1560/1570 in these 2824 DJ cases? Does anyone know if there are other issues with doing so? I noticed they have come with a spacer and i'm assuming that's for adapting from 11.5 lignes (2824 diameter) to 12.5 lignes (1560/1570 diameter). Thanks! B

Just finished this gift for the wife. Fresh off the workbench. Partlist: jmb case with all the upgrades Tonney dial raffles time hands hacking 2824 rios strap Hopefully better pics to follow in the daytime. Thanks for looking.

Hi guys. I'm just a newbie who just wrote some newbic questions for a few times. But those stupid questions are answered by friendly experts of this forum and thanks to that, I could complete my 1016 build. It was just sudden that I just fall in love with 1016 although I didn't even know if there is a watch like that before I enter this forum. I took a look at 1016 pics around this forum and google, I wanted to have both leather and folded 7836 bracelet. My 1016 build spec is as follows. Case - JMB Crown - Rep provided with JMB case set Crystal - provided with JMB case set Dial - Yuki Hands - Yuki Movement - Clone 2824(Seagull) Bracelet - Josh JMB was communicative and he is the one who answered my noob question for the most of the time. I appreciate that Justin. PM him if you want to inquire any good quality case for datejust or exlporer. -JMB : http://www.rwgforum.net/user/24124-jmb/ I'm not sure Yuki's dial and hands are correct enough but I can guarantee that they are well made with sharp&vivid printings. Lume is not bad but not superb neither. I'm saying maybe because I compared my 1016 to seiko divers which has super hyper bright lume -Yuki : www.yukiwatch.com Seagull 2824 clone movement has very beautiful decorations which is always good to have. I've heard they are reliable if I give it a good service regulary as most of other eta clone movement. -An Ebay seller : http://www.ebay.com/itm/321467374718?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Bracelet from josh has good quality and I have some good news for you guys which is not the happiest news for me. I bought the bracelet from josh and I proceeded my purchasing of Aussy spring bars and WSO 580 endlinks because I've heard they fits well with jmb case. Moreover, I heard that endlink of josh's bracelet doesnt fit well with jmb case. So I odered bracelet from josh and also ordered wso580 endlinks and aussie spring bars. However, Josh's bracelet came to me earlier(actually I didn't even received spring bars and 580 endlinks yet. I'm in South Korea which is close to hongkong) and I found that they have really good fitting with jmb enhanced case. It fits without any modification and I just cannot find any unbalanced point. it just fits good. -Josh : www.pf-818.com -WSO : http://www.ebay.com/itm/171022393380?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT -Aussie spring bars : http://www.ebay.com/itm/351011434208?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I posted links of each parts for future-coming noobs like me as they would be helpful. now, let me show you my 1016. Photos will tell thounds of words.

Excited to have this el cheapo 6694 turned out to be a precious Explorer 6610 1. Flea market 6694 34mm 2. EXP dial from rafflesdial 3. gold hands from rafflesdial Had a hard time fitting the hands since my movement is dg2813 and i got an ETA hands. slightly worked on making the minute's hole bigger and second's hole smaller (by pinching). slightly buffed with scotch brite allowing it to have this unshiny, lightly scratched hands. Ageing both dials and hand lume with kid's colored marker (brown) and fading it with the use of cotton buds. Slight case buffing to make corners rounders. but i'm still contemplating on giving it a rock and nail box to achieve some knick and knacks. Dial slightly sprayed with lacquer to achieve dial imperfections. Might not have a correct case size (34mm) but i'm feeling happy with the result Thanks for viewing!

Hi Guys, Need your advice here. Just got this one from ebay.. I know, that's why I'm here I'm looking for 1016 bezel for more than a year as apart of my explorer project.. Pics of case bezel from listing were not too bad, looks like someone tried to make 1016 out of DJ. Here what I got.. 2mil serial 1601 DJ from 69, case looks a bit wrong to me, comparing to 1500 and 16000 I have.. The main concern 1016 Bezel here looks wider and flatter that it should be, as for me, hope I'm wrong. But from other hand case is looking not too bad, and crystal looks like GEN.. again I could be wrong. Desperately need your advice. I'll try to attach some pictures, sorry not the best ones. I also compared bezel wit pictures of 1016 case with bezel from internet Also here is comparison of two cases and bezels: on the left - 1016 (sourced form internet), on there right 1601 case with "1016 bezel" LEGIT? Thank you so much! BP

Hi Mates, This dial have been offered to me by respectful member of one of the Gen Forums. I'm still thinking font and coronet looks a bit strange to me I don't want to say "not Gen" just a bit odd. I never have seen any like this, I thought that It's Frog dial.. Help to come closer to 1016 dream build! Do you have any thoughts? Please share. Cheers, BP

Hello all, I will post this text both here and in the sales area so the information is communicated. Just to remind first what drived me into this Rolex Ephemera project : simply to have papers for all my watches, rep and gen. Having a full set is such a nice feeling ! Only, as we all know, Rolex ephemera prices have gone really expensive, and I am not willing to pay over 1k for a blank certificate, or settle for a Date or Datejust certificate with the wrong numbers and all. This is not a business, just an attempt to finance this project. Please do not treat me like a dealer, I am a collector just like you guys ! The journey to find a good printer was long. Very long, and I had actually given hope until recently in Eurasia. This batch of Certificates is the third of this series. I have refused 2 batches, I could not refuse this one. The progress overall was so outstanding that I had to accept it. And to be honest, I was too focused on the print quality to notice the small errors you guys pointed. About these errors, note you did not see them at first ! It took you some time and focus to spot them. And also, to be honest, it was probably the first time you actually READ a certificate. Who reads that? It just looks good folded in the wallet fitted in the box. Anyways, I had to accept as I had a strong feeling if I refused this batch, they would refuse to work for me again. So, do not imagine one second these came cheep !!!! At every trial I have to pay. So all in all, that price I offer is just a break-even. Nothing more. Printing is not cheap. Finding the correct paper was not simple, and most of all, creating the source file with these stamps and details was a lot of work. I will have one more batch made, and have these defects corrected. Green will be lighter, watermark will be reduced by 20% and the mistakes will be corrected. PLEASE, have a good look at the other ones, and let me know if you see any other thing that should be adjusted !!!!!!!!! Since they had a super clear scan of the gen to work and mistake in on their side, I will try to get a discount and order 100 pcs. I will still sell the set at 20 euros, and the other ones will go at 10 euros only. Again, once folded and aged, for a submariner with a low crown guard you won't need any better..... Someone who doesn't notice a low crown guard will not notice that accent in the wrong place and so..... Cheers, RJ

Hope I don't bore anyone with another thread about a 1016 build, but after having what amounted to what I thought may have been, for me, the luckiest week ever over on the 'bay, I have found myself with now most likely two 1016 builds. Originally, I had started approaching this build around (in my humble opinion) a pretty nice rep 1016 slab serif dial I picked up from Minh. I had been eyeing the dial for a while and had already sent a gen 16013 case over to Jensen at vintagewatchmaker to be re-engraved and have the lug holes drilled out (both of which were done quite well btw). From there I was going to go the ETA and TC hands route and I had, of course, already procured a perfect bezel from JMB. Anyways, checking on eBay late one night I see an Aussie had listed what appeared to be five(!) gen service dials; all ending on different, consecutive days, all un-lumed, and all priced well under $200 at the time with very few people watching, let alone bidding on, the dials. The one ending the soonest had about 30 minutes left to go and was at $101 when I haphazardly put in a low-ball bid of $225. I hadn't done a ton of research on the seller, but the dials looked great. I thought, if for some unforeseen reason I do actually win this and it turns out to be fake, I will have at the very least gotten a pretty nice rep dial for less than what I paid for the Minh dial. Well, I won it. For $202.25. And while waiting for it to arrive I poured over the (low-res) pictures and started realizing it was legit. Even sent the crappy listing pictures over to LHOOQ who was kind enough to look them over and say that he also felt that it was probably gen. And so now the franken build takes on a more serious tone and the hunt for a gen hands set and a gen movement began I tried to photograph this under a loupe in the harshest natural light conditions I could find. As you can see there is definitely some very minor scuffs and wear marks throughout. Frankly though, these blemishes are only noticeable under magnification; the naked eye doesn't pick them up and I can't imagine them being visible under a plexi. Also, it'll add to the genuine older feel of the dial (even for a service dial) onc eit gets a proper, more vintage-hued lume job. More on that in a second... Lovers of the 1016 can, I think< sympathize with my absolute frustration with rep 1016 dials. I stand in awe that no one seems to be able to get the fonts and most importantly the spacing correct on the "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" text. That one detail in particular drove me nuts. The coronet and the SCOC spacing on the gen dial have finally put my OCD on this to rest. The back of the dial looks good for a late 70's-early 80's Rolex in-house made service dial. Looks good to me, and besides I don't recall ever seeing a rep'ed in-house Rolex plate nor have I ever seen a re-dial done on a gen one so this was just a tiny bit more confirmation for me about the dial's authenticity (sorry about the photos, I had a hard time capturing the Rolex engraving on the tarnished back plate) And then compared to the rep Slab Serif dial from Minh: I gotta say, I was feeling really happy with the build(s) at this point. Four days later, I went back on eBay simply to check on the tracking of the dial shipment when, on a lark, I just did a quick search of new listings for "Rolex watch hands" and look what had just been posted not twenty minutes earlier and with a BIN price of $185: Unquestionably in rough shape, but still, they were gen cal. 1560 hands from an old 5512 and were being sold as in "destroyed condition" by (I think) a retired/ex-watchmaker. I was obviously already getting into this build deep, sourcing random gen parts here and there; the original inspiration to go "super-franken" started with a gen double-stamped triple six 1016 case back I fell in love with (http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/178594-1016-case-back-double-stamped/?hl=%2B1016+%2Bcase+%2Bback). Between that and the dial, I couldn't say no to these hands and snatched them up instantly. Side note: regretfully, the gen 1016 case back is incompatible with the 16000 mid case, thus the two projects: the Eta-based 16000 cased Minh dial, and now an uber-franken with the gen dial, hands, case back, 16200 mid, and eventually a gen 1560. I'm not sure why, but I'm hellbent on using this 1016 CB. Besides, Automatico was telling me a 1016-dialed 1560 is a way east fit in a 162XX case rather than a 16XXX case; no need to change out cannon pinions, etc. So the BIG and somewhat more pressing issue right now for me is finding a skilled lumer (hopefully in the US too) who is skilled at/enjoys 1016 lume work and hopefully someone who can also do the hands. I'm hoping the hands don't need to be "repaired" per se, and that they can simply be cleaned up a bit and matched to the dial. And I know it's a later-era service dial and was most likely slated to be a "Swiss - T<25" branded transitional Luminova dial, but I'd like to give it an older feel with a tritium-esque no glow lume job. Nothing too "antiqued" or yellow, not even vanilla or creamy colored, but more of (hopefully) a bone/off-white; almost slightly tinted white color similar to limestone. Does that even make any sense haha? So to wrap it up, I'd love to hear suggestions on lumers, color choice(s) for the dial/hands, criticisms/observations on the dial and hands, the build, etc. Everything! The wonderful RWG community houses sime true 1016 afficionados and exoerts and I wold love to hear everyone's thoughts on the build(s) as it stands and where they're going. Going to part out my super-franken 6263 I was building to fund the completion of this project. With this amazing dial, I feel like I'm almost there...

I recently purchased a random box of old Rolex parts (mostly sealed NOS tubes, crown, movement parts, etc.) and one of the pieces in the lot was a supposedly gen 1016 case back. Upon first glance it certainly appears genuine to my eye: shape and dimensions look good, the wear on it looks appropriate for its supposed age, etc. It has all the correct stampings on the inside back, but this is where I'm hung up and was hoping some of the resident 1016 experts might be able to chime in with some wisdom. The case markings appear to have been stamped on the case back twice, one directly on top of the other, albeit slightly offset. In my estimation (and I most definitely could be wrong here), the markings appear to be pressure stamped and not engraved, as they are supposed to be. And the fonts and letter spacing/positioning seems to be correct. But I can't seem to find any sort of reference material or evidence pointing to Rolex ever double stamping a case. I theorized that this was a "repurposed" case back and that it was not originally destined for a 1016 and originally had no reference number stamp on it and perhaps simply stamping a "1016" by itself on the case wasn't possible and accordingly the entire stamping had to be re-done. Pure assumption however. Needless to say, this one has me scratching my head, and moving forward I'm going to continue operating under the assumption that it is not genuine (of course, I would love to be shown information to the contrary). The other thing that gives me pause is the date coding. It is my understanding that the date coding is a small roman numeral followed by a two-digit year code, the roman numeral representing which quarter of the year the watch was produced in. Is the roman numeral actually indicative of the month rather than the quarter? Because a date code of "VI.66" would put it at the "sixth quarter" of 1966, which makes absolutely no sense. Now, "VI" representing month 6 (i.e., June) makes a little more sense, but I can only ever remember seeing date codes ranging from I-IV (or quarter "one" through quarter "four"). Also, this particular marking looks to be engraved, not pressure stamped like the rest of the markings but I could be wrong there too. And lastly, there appears to be watchmaker service marks on the inside of the back, from when the watch was most likely whole and being serviced? And if someone "made" this case back then why would they go through the trouble of scratching in watchmaker marks if the glaringly obvious error of the double stamp was already present? That in turn, got me thinking that maybe this was in fact a gen case back, just not one for an Explorer. And that maybe originally it had no ref number stamped on it, was worked on by a watchmaker, and then WAY later got an entire new stamping. This time with the desirable 1016 ref number stamped on it. Seems like a lot of trouble to go through for a rep case back (especially one I paid a mere $50 for) and sometimes the simplest answer is also the best, so maybe it is just a weirdo Rolex stamping. Who knows? Hopefully some of you pro 1016 guys can shed some light... Maybe I'm just thinking WAY too much about this and overanalyzing it. Has anyone ever seen or heard of this type of double stamping before? If so, I would certainly love an education on the matter...

Hey all, Ever since the original run sold, I’ve received a bunch of inquires on whether a second batch of 1016 explorer dials would be created. While I didn’t plan on making any more dials, I will be making one last batch of 1016 explorer dials exclusively (sorry, no other models will be made) if the demand is high enough. I would be making 30 total dials, but would need 20 dials accounted for to start printing. The original design has been tweaked so the text/details will be thinner than the original run (which was a bit too thick). The 1016 design that will be printed was hand traced from a genuine dial, and then further edited and refined in a vector program to get optimal printing results once the cliche is made. As before, dials will come unlumed, so you can apply glowing or non-glowing lume. If anyone is interested in a 1016 dial, kindly start a list below and add your username. Once the list/orders are filled, I estimate that the dials will be finished/in transit in 60-90 days. Dials will each be $179. First 5 members to sign up will receive a $10 discount. Previous dial version can be seen below. As mentioned earlier, it will be the same 1016 variant, but with thinner printing http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/171126-my-explorer-1016-build-is-finally-complete/ To clarify, this is not a sales post, just want to gauge interest! Special thanks to bangalter for getting this rolling Update: And the most prestigious gold star for tomhorn

Hi guys, The 1016 is a special model for me. Have owned a couple of cheap reps earlier, but decided to put in some funds. Would like to share with you some pictures: And why have a pretty movement if you're not gonna show it off? ...and for all you puritans - caseback is still left, no worries Well, as most of you saw from the case profile and lugs, this is a 1601 based franken. Full parts list: *1966 Gilt 1016 Explorer dial (this type was used 64-66, before that chapter ring and after non-gilt) *Tritium hands (allegedly from a 1964 gilt 5513 sub) *Tropic 22 superdome crystal *JMB custom made bezel (thanks mate!) *Rolex 1601 case, non-drilled lugs *Rolex 1570 non-hacking movement (recently serviced, date parts removed) - correct for a 1965+ build (before that 1560) *Display caseback from Custom Watch Concepts (and a 1966 1016 caseback just for show - doesn't fit the case!) *Yuki 7206 bracelet, fixed endlinks squeezed in Must take this opportunity to thank others who have gone this path (alligoat and most of all ubi!) for the inspiration - for me the gilt 1016 dial together with the slender 160x case is the perfect combination, heck like it even better than the gen 1016 case! Thanks also goes out to lhooq for helping me along the way and Domi for assembling this. Might consider drilling out the lugs (if I can find anyone with the guts to do it lol!) and upgrading the bracelet and endlinks - but honestly this feels good as it is and I wear it all the time right now. Thank you for looking, and please do comment with suggestions, questions or thoughts - as always much appreciated! Yes, even things like "are you sure that superdome is gen?" is good to hear in the long run... ​

Just about to start my very first modding journey, an Explorer 1016. Recently purchased it from Trusty via another RWG member. Was advised to go for JMB bezel and T22 Crystal (on their way) and have been looking at gen crowns and a gen bracelet. Was considering a relume, but then figured a 30 year old watch isn't gonna have much lume left anyway. If I'm going for a vintage gen look, what's the best mods I can go for?

Hey guys, forgive the noob question, but I've just bought a TT 1016. Very nice, but as advised I'm having JMB provide a gen spec bezel and T22 crystal. I've also got my eye on a gen bracelt clasp. But my questions are... is it worth changing the crown to gen? There's a few on ebay 5.3mm and 6mm, both claiming to be for a 1016. Which is right?

I have a oyster problem.. I am addicted to them. So far in my watchbox I have a Seiko SARB033, franken Tudor Day-Date, franken Tudor 74000, franken Rolex 5500, 1680 & this 1601 that I converted into a 1016. Thanks to lhooq for inspiring me with his many threads for 1016's (especially the SPACE DWELLER build ). This one here is powered by a recently serviced swiss ETA2824. Special thanks to JMB for the JMB bezel. Couldn't have completed this project without this piece. and a wristie:

Not a full package but it came with booklets, spare folded link and domed crystal Serial number puts it to mid/late 1971, sold around 1972 which was not uncommon, the Rolex Explorer was a shelf hugger at that time Clasp stamped 4 71 which seems to be correct Service dial with great lume What do you think? Cheers

A bit over one year has passed since I entered into this fantastic scene, after receiving my first Explorer 1016 (a MBW version). Finally I managed to gather enough courage, equipment and not at last knowledge & parts, thanks to this forum and its members, to try to build (put together) my own Franken! A big thank you members (too many names to mention)! Thanks to the nice posts from lhooq, JMB and a few more members, the new project was all clear to be an Explorer 1016 build, based on the "famous JMB Datejust 16200 case", including a flatter Clark Tropic 25-22 crystal, JMB´s special bezel and a few more specialities. The mission was to get a few more steps closer to the gen by keeping the budget at a reasonable level. I personally see the vintage watch (re)building as sort of restoration of an oldtimer car, where most of the parts for it need to be recreated, because they are no longer produced. It is "almost" the same case with the building of the vintage Explorer 1016 for example. The whole process of gathering parts from all over the world, do months of research and talk to a lot of helpful members here on the forums, make the project so interesting. It is the road to the destination in combination with the destination (the Explorer 1016) that motivates. Well, after straight two months of searching and ordering parts, patience and a lot of luck, I was forced to let the project lay aside another two months, because of a hectic professional life, but that´s a different story. The past few days were so thrilling as I got the chance to return to the Explorer 1016 project and build it. It was in fact my first Franken and of course doing it was way more difficult and tricky than my initial thoughts (I had been warned before ). But I knew I can do it, because of my previous trainings with vintage Seiko restoration. The more important is to keep calm even if something does not go as planned, do a new research, rethink and it will work out well. Here I present you some pictures of the Explorer 1016: and some side by side with my other favourite Explorer 1016 version My new 1016 build (In the background is the MBW Explorer 1016) The MBW Explorer 1016. Side profiles (each version has its Pro´s and Con´s, but I love both of them!) *The MBW 1016 is on the right side. I would keep myself away from commenting all the differences between both 1016´s, but one major difference I´d like to mention is the appeal of the crystals! Both crystals (in terms of shape and profile) we see above, have been used in the gen in the course of about two decades, experts my correct me. The Datejust based 1016 has a Tropic 25-22 crystal, that is gen spec.(Clark´s). The MBW on the other side has a domed crystal that is not gen specification but is quite close to the gen domed Tropic, in terms of visual appearance (in my opinion). Nevertheless I personally prefer the Tropic 25-22 crystal as it is much flatter and makes the dial "come into shine" in a different way, it also makes the dial look wider, compared to the domed crystal. A question for the experts: Would a Tropic 25-22 crystal fit on the MBW 1016 case without modifications? * (I only know that the MBW crystal bezel is not compatible with the Tropic crystals) Bonus info on the build itself, not really a step by step, but would like to highlight some special details. Some of the parts involved in no particular order. That dial is one of the most important parts of the project itself. This version is, in my opinion, quite a good alternative, considering the current market situation for Explorer 1016 dials (rep or gen)! It is also budget friendly. The ones of you that are long enough on the forums, would recognise what origin the dial has From the start of the project I knew I had three alternatives for attaching the dial to the movement, as the dial has its dial feet placed for an 1570 movement. The first alternative would be to use dial dots (round double sided tape). Fast and really budget friendly. The second version is to glue the dial on to the movement spacer, that comes with the case. Problem is that the dial and spacer pass/fit from different sides the movement. This way locking the dial on the movement, when the dial and spacer ring are glued. And what if you screw up the keyless works (like I did a couple of times) and need to remove the dial and reassemble the Keyless?! Maybe there are some other methods of attaching the dial in a secure, service friendly way ... Third alternative, is to place the dial on the movement using dial feet (that was always my favourite one). The most important part of this method is to have proper "dial feet". The experience here on the forums and on other sites has shown that no one recommends this method, because the only alternatives are the Bergeon dial feet. They are in fact the most popular, but pricey and do not have a well sized basis/head, that can be glued on the dial. What I used and can recommend, are the so called "D109 Gents Dial Feet" ( I will not place any links as the supplier may easily be found on the internet). Some measurements and details: How I glued the dial on the dial feet? Therefore I have been looking for an ETA 2824 Main plate, luckily the member "1680" pointed me to one that was on sale for not much money. Then I took a common lighter apart and cut-fitted the mini gas outlet tube on to the ETA Main plate in order to have a cone type centre-alignment-helper for the dial. With the dial feet placed it was an easy task to centre and glue the dial with epoxy glue. Later I had to cut and file the glued dial feet, place and remove the crown stem by holding only the dial. The glue and feet stood rock solid on their place! The result: * The little epoxy that can be seen is really not a problem as it has the same height as the dial feet head. It would have been too risky to file down epoxy glue on that tiny dial edge. Hope I could bring in some new inspirations into the mighty Explorer 1016 Franken world

First of all, Merry Christmas to all the members, their families and beloved ones! This year Santa brought some special surprises under the tree, one of them being from Japan! That special present contains some historic information about one of my favourite Rolex models, the Explorer 1016! Long story short, what I was able to find inside that "present" was an all so important information about the Explorer dials that isn´t available anywhere else on the web. As an owner of two Explorer 1016 reps (the first being a MBW version and the second a Franken) I had a hard time understanding the dial of the MBW 1016 Explorer, as has been discussed a number of times. The main topic being, that the MBW Explorer dial is marked "Swiss Made" instead "Swiss - T<25" (Tritium radiation less than 25 mCi). Every time someone (me inclusive) has asked here on the forums, if an Explorer 1016 marked "Swiss Made" ever existed, the answer was: "No, never existed one ...". I managed to find that special dial that existed in the 1960´s ( Officially Certified Chronometer not SCOC): This "new" discovery would make some Explorer 1016 owners, having dials marked Swiss Made a bit more happy

Finished these today! Akira

I've seen sizes range from 26.5mm to 29mm. Anyone know the 'desired' size?

So, I have a dilemma. I finally installed the C&I 7206 bracelet, with minimal stretch for its age, on my 1016 project (Project: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/151625-1016-wip-almost-fin/). I then received an offer of $750 from an acquaintance who wants to buy the bracelet from me. I am on the fence. I don't need the money, but I am also luke-warm on the "fit" (primarily endlinks). I also need to remove a link (which is no big deal, I have a tool that makes quick work of R&Ring these links). Finally, I could install a 9315 w/558 end-links (558 are the correct link for the 160x case). This would proved the best bracelet fit, but I loose the rivets. It does fit the "Service Theme" Photos to help with decision. On the Fence...

Does one exist? I would love to have a chapter ring gilt dial on my Explorer, but when I checked last, they were no more than a figment of imagination. Has someone found/created a decent dial?

Work In Progress Excuse the poor lighting, and the case has since gone through the ultrasonic and is clean with no gunk. Almost finished... Updated photos near end of this post. All genuine parts except JMB's Bezel. Dial/Hands came from a collector in New York. NOS Trituim Hands match the dial. Donor... 1570 Fight the Power!!! High Resolution Crops More details to follow, including Bracelet updates....

I have been MIA lately, but now that summer craziness is slowing down time for some projects. In Ronin style the watch will be nearly ALL gen except the JMB Bezel. I am using a DJ 1601 case, and it will be powered by a 1570. HELP. I have a GEN C&I 7206 Rivet bracelet, that does not seem to fit the DJ case very well. I wonder if this is a C&I thing, as the endlinks are unnumbered. -or is does the DJ case vary from the 1016 case. Can anyone advise on bracelet fit for a DJ Case (converted for 1016) with drilled lugs. THANKS! Dial Porn: