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And so it begins.....my first build. I started off with a cartel 1655. The movement bit the dust on me so I figured this is my chance to try my hand at modding. This tread will be the timeline . What am I building? good question. I so very badly have two watches that I want to build. A GMT Master 6542 and a Milgauss 1019. Both of which are NLA from the TD's so if you want one you gotta build it yourself. and from what I have read, neither are very good examples of the models so alot of modding would be needed to make either of them half decent . Pics for Reference..cause everyone loves pics of watches....if you dont, what the hell ya doing here?? lol After a few convos with @JoeyB I picked his brain and he was very kind to share his knowledge and experience in the 6542 build. Finding a reasonable priced Dial atm is difficult so this is why I am leaning towards the 1019 currently. the challange with the 1019 build is finding a smooth bezel to fit the cartel case. Either Way the case needs some work so I started on that and if I dont completely mess it up, I will then decide and order parts.... So I am stripped down the 1655 to bear bones. Drilled out the lugs. Broke a bit...but managed to get it out, save the case and get the rest of the lugs done. Not too bad...sorry no pics. Tonight I started on the lugs. Getting the crown tube out was a bit of a challenge as it was locktite into the case so it took some force but managed to get it out and managed not to destroy it. Next we're the lugs. A steady hand and a Dremel with first a grinding stone and then sanding drum to clean up the marks left by the stone. Looking at the pics and comparing them to the gens. I still have a bit more to go to make the case smooth for the crown. It's been a long day and I was getting hungry so I called it. Feedback , suggestions and comments welcome. I'm here to learn Thanks for looking. [emoji482] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Today I’d like to share what I would call the «Easiest way to drill vintage case lugs for 2mm bars when you’re a city dweller» So let’s begin with the facts ; 1 - I have a 6538 case with pre-drilled lugs 2 - I live in a city flat with no so much space for huge tools 3 - I dont have a drill press and I dont really have the place for that (see point 2) 4 - I have nice 2mm bars that fit in my 93150 bracelet and 580 end links but not in my 6538 case And today I have decided to try an unlikely experience ... « drilling » the lugs of the 6538 with only hand grinds. The best part of this thread is that … IT WORKED PERFECTLY. The tools I have used are : - 1mm diamond grind - 2mm diamond grind - 3mm rond grind And here is a pic of those tolls ... much less bulky than a drill press The process I used is VERY BASIC. 1mm diamond grind : I first enlarged the pre-drilling until the grind passes easily through ... by working carefully it is possible to keep the holes in the same axis. I think it’s best to rotate the file in both directions (rather than going back and forth) 2mm diamond grind : There you have to be more patient and more applied because you do not want to pass completely through ... the aim being to get a hole of about 1.3 mm and not 2mm. Always the same method (rotation rather than going back and forth) and it is necessary to stop regularly to control the result with a 2mm springbar ... from the outside. When the springbar crosses almost completely the lug (it just blocks on the inside face) I changed tools. 3mm round grind : I gently enlarged the hole from the inside side of the lug with the round file of 3mm ... always checking regularly to stop as soon as the springbar pass freely. This is the most risky phase because you have to do it at an angle and you have to be very careful, otherwise you risk scratching the opposite lug. All this process took ame bout 20 minutes to drill 2 lugs ... so it would take 40 minutes for a complete case. It is probably longer than with a drill press (although ... if one takes into account the time to install the drill press, to fix the box and to align the holes, etc ...) but it is much less risky. It's quite impossible to ruin your case and as one works gently the steel does not heat and does not harden. Plus you can do this in « spare time » ... by watching a movie, on public transport (if you have a seat), in a car (if someone else drives), in an hotel room (for business travelers), etc ... Here are some pictures of the job I did. still have to drill the 2 remaining lugs and the chamfers of the external face but it is already … not that bad. And here’s an overview with 2mm springbar in ... rather cool Cant help but congratulate myself

Hello all, Nice to meet you. This is my first thread on this site. After reading and gathering information, I'm interested in starting my own project to build a mod 1016 (is that too ambitious?). My objective is to build it for under $600. So I came up with two alternatives to build it and would like to ask you which direction should I take. First: Buy a rep 1016 - Asian 23J Automatic Movement - Solid316L case - Scratchproof sapphire - Deployant clasp I don't really like the dial so I think I'll: --> replace with yuki dial (but it says it'd only fit 1560/1570 or ETA 2824-2 / 2836. So I'm not sure about this) ---> or if possible can i replace the movement with the ETA 2824-2 (is it the same size as Asian 23J?) Second: Do everything from scratch - Yuki 1016 dial - Yuki 7206 bracelet - Seagull ETA 2824-2 movement For this direction I don't know where to get the case / bazel / crown... Please advice an amateur like me. Thank you so much in advance.

Hello all (again) Sorry for being such a pain in the butt by asking so many questions. Promise that once I gather enough knowledge (which would probably be no more than that of yours) I'll be sharing my knowledge as well. But for now, I have some questions... I am wondering if I could fit a gen Datejust 1601 dial into a 36mm made for ETA 2836 case? [intend to buy from Rafflesdial] And if so, will i need a spacer / movement ring to get everything into place? I found some threads about 1601 franken but couldn't get a hold of the writer. So, I really want your experienced guidance. Thank you so much in advance.

Just trying to nail something down. Does anyone know if the gen Incabloc complete upper shock unit is a direct replacement for the rep unit, or is there some milling that needs to be done? Thanks!

Hey guys, I'm looking to reinstate my RWI membership but I'm unable to pm a mod to ask for instructions on how to do so because my inbox is over the whopping limit of 3. As I don't want to delete all of my messages, does anyone know a Mod over there that I can contact through email or here on RWG? Any help would be awesome!

Hi Guys, just wanted to share some pictures/comparisons of the various fifty fathoms collected. Thanks for dropping in to take a look

Can anyone recommend a person who has experience with fine anodizing work? I'm aiming to get the triangle on my 6538 insert dyed red, which requires a bit more finesse/fine tuning then most of the anodizing services I've seen offered.

Hello members This is my 3rd 15400 in 2 months. After the BP black dial (sold), then a Miyota white dial (sold), I decided to get another one. I think I won't sell it in the next... 2 months (May be???). As everybody knows, I'm an AR freak. Then, I put inside a Domi/Guru AR Xtal. After that, I tell to myself why you don't try something different? Well, I decide to mod the open caseback. This is what I did..... Put a tint film with standard light 35% inside, then... Here is the result. So what the guys say....

Hello my beloved APers, got my first AP and with it, the infamous problem with the sec@12 movement So now I'm calling out to you guys to please enlighten me with a detailed description of what the Jewel Mod actually is. I have no intimate knowledge of watch movements, but I do see an advantage here, and I have very good reasons to ask such an extensive question, so please bear with me: My watch is at my local watchmaker, getting serviced soon. Since he is replica-friendly and is an AD for many swiss watchmaking brands like Breitling, Longines, Cartier, he (and his team of 5 watchmakers, i think) seems to be quite the professional. Now the advantage that I see in this situation: "Why not try and ask him whether he can pull off a jewel mod?" I figured it neither would hurt nor would it cost anything to ask, plus it would be a great advantage to all of those that are thinking of doing the jewel mod or those still to encounter the sec@12 problem, to know that there is yet another watchmaker capable to do it. Now to the problem: I have only a very vague and faint idea of what the problems with the sec@12 movement is, the most frequently used word being "!!!!!!!FRICTION!!!!!" to describe it. And something with "gears". -Yes, I'll glady take the smirks and grunts those of your reading this, because I myself am amused about how little I know about the watch i spent 500$+ for. For me to be able to ask him, therefore, I would like to ask you if you guys could explain to me what, exactly, the problem is, and what, exactly, the jewel mod is and does. For those of you patient enough to answer this question, I am very thankful And for those that are tired of seeing this topic AGAIN, I am very sorry!

To all the modders around the world: I am working on designing my own watch, which is partially based on a sub mid case. I need to have a prototype put together ASAP, and the factory I'm working with is taking its time. Does any modder have a sub midcase that they can reshape for me, whether it be a 16610, 1680, 5512, or 5513? Even if it is from a canal street grade rep, it may be fine. The crown guards would need reshaping, the midcase would need to be thinned, and the lugs would need some reshaping a bit too. Who can offer some assistance with this? Thanks!

Hi all, The noob v3 still has the same white insert color, so platinum mod is on the table. Can you recommend a CONUS modder who can do all of the following: 1. platinum mod 2. relume with tritec bg-w9 3 - n. WR, DWO or cyclops alignment if necessary, regulation? Thanks in advance!

One noticeable flaw with Rolex reps, is that the crowns often don't have the crimped inner edge that the gens have. I remember once hearing of someone filing down the inner edge of their rep crown to make it thinner and to give it the correct inner edge. Has anyone hear tried it? Can you post pics of your results?

Question for everyone: I received my BK DSSD today. woohoo!! Now what?? Any suggestions for mod? Does it need a new pearl? A re-lume? Swap out bracelet for something better? Thanks everyone