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The Rolex 1680/0 White Submariner a Comparison


FxrAndy

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Disclaimer, My photo skills are crap, Sorry

Where do we start?

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When I first started on reps I always shied away from Rolex because of the new bling image, but I got educated along the way, I leaned of the time when this was the watch for real men of the age. People who took life to the limits in the direction they chose, and the watch they chose was one that would survive as long as they did and may be longer. I am not Steve McQueen or Jacques Cousteau

mqueenrolly.jpgJacques-Cousteau-Rolex-Submariner-Very-Close.jpg

I know these are not 1680s but the heritage is of the vintage Rolex and the persona of the wearer

But I have had some excitement in my life, done a few wild and stupid things and I still do, and the watches that those people wore survived, they wore Rolexes! Then they were new and the best available (opinion not fact) at the time, They looked good and were true tools made to a standard rather than a price and made to last! Heck they have even been worn by our favorite agents until they sold out to Omega.

Last year I retired from the Military after a long career and got a real job, I found I had a little bit of cash that I could spare and thought I would get me a white 1680, and It took a bit of looking to find the right one but in the end I did. Yes I wanted a luminover service dial and hands because I want to wear it and it to be usable all the time, I got lucky as I still have the silver date wheel and it all looks like almost brand new, that’s because it has just come from the RSC which is also why I can be pretty sure that the comparison is of a genuine watch with genuine parts, a comparison of two watch's that are about as close as I can get them with in the realms of sensible price rep building and without going all out franken, My rep has not been artificially aged since I built it the year before last and the case was not brand new when I got it, I don’t polish it every day but I do wear it in the garage, garden, hot tub on the bike in the car and to work, it looks about right to me for a looked after 30 year old watch. The Gen is one of the later versions Late 70s and according to the paper work the date wheel is original so if you like the silver DWs there is the provenance to have one on a later 1680.

So what do the comparisons show then, data is below and I would say they are close enough to be with in different batch or machine tolerances almost, the differences are impossible to spot on your own wrist. Please let me know if you want another angle measured wont you.

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Work performed on MBW case

Crown guards front, rear, inside, outside tops and bottoms (more than once)

Crown seat lowered

Lugs drilled 1.3mm

Dial opening opened by 0.2mm

Case polished

90% of the serial numbers ect have been worn away by strap and end link movement ;)

93150 MBW rep bracelet smoothed, polished and re-brushed

Gen Crown

Gen Tube

Clarks 127 crystal

Not sure on the combination of the bezel now as I have had a few and this combination of retaining ring washer and bezel works and looks best

Insert ??? but it clicks in to the bezel like gen

Pearl cartel budget vintage sub

Movement

21.600 bph 2846-2 with a white MBW overlay like a service one would be, hacking lever added (because a 1575 can be a hacking movement. I am still thinking about removing the quick change for the date and making it single position but not sure whether it is worth making a movement less useable is a good idea.

Dial and hands

Tritec re-lumed MBW white dial with unknown hands, I was just packing my spares away the other day and I had been reading what Highoeyazmuhudee (name far too long and hard to spell) was saying about them and since I have been looking at the gen then the difference is quite glaring. Well I noticed these in a tube in my rolex spares box and thought” hello they look better” and they do! Just a touch too short in the hour hand area but with a better sized circle. Where they came from???? I can only think of clarks as that is where I last got hands from, but I cant be sure on that, oh and the seconds hand belonged to set I took off as the one in the new set, the tail was too short to eclipse the center of the merc star and the center where the tube fits was too small.

My impressions of the rep to gen

Well I know all the ins and outs of this as I built it, I would like to have a better movement in there where the date wheel turns the correct way, but is it worth the expense?, well from operation feel and time keeping front, no it is not. The watches feel the same they act the same. To confirm this I was having a very small GTG with a member here who can join in if he likes, but when I gave him both the other day, I am not sure what the thought initially but I did not tell him one was a gen I assumed he thought they were both reps and he did seem a bit shocked to find that one was still under guarantee from an RSC, that tells me that from the look and feel they are pretty close.

The little differences that are still possible to solve

Well as you can see the clasp is not that close to the gen, but a gen clasp is not cheap, The end links could be better and the right number, and the last link on the bracelet should be folded sheet rather than solid. The biggest tell apart from the dial (and I still think the MBW white is one of the better ones) is the inside of the crown guards, I don’t think at home this could be solved, they would have to be milled to keep that circular look like the gen has, but from the front and sides we are good. Is a gen crystal needed, NOT AT ALL, the clarks is perfect!

So apart from replacing more parts with gen parts like the insert ect I am not sure this could get a lot better for reasonable money.

Now the comparison shots

Hands with the better ones i found

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Face on

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Individual

Gen

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Modded Rep

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Crown side Gen on top

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Note the round form of the inside of the Gen crown guards that once you open the front of the CG on the MBW you lose

9 side gen on top

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Note differences in the location of the adjustment holes in the clasp!

Siht out of focus shot of the CGs but you can see the inner shape

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Shows to me that 1.3mm drill bit is use for the lug holes is spot on.

Case back

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Lugs

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The rep is on the right and you can see that the RSC polished lugs look thinner

Difference in the clasp

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gen is on the right and is a later version 93150 with the lines on the fliplock, not also the softer shape to the bracelet links

CG and crown height profile, note the MBW did have the slight droop to the wrist side before i removed it copying another CG picture before of an early 5513 i think

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Gen on the left

And from the back

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A daylight lume shot (dont hear that every day)

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And the money shot

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no photo shopping, watches were running just go to a dark room point and shoot!

Guys and Gals (if we have any females) i hope this was usefull and may help you in your builds and i think it shows what is possible with a bit of work and some thing to compare with.

Any one in Europe got a spare Ofrie pearl as this one is off centered?

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Fantastic watches, both of them !

Trust me - I had them in my hands :clap2:

Well, I'll leave all those smallest details to the experts, let them analyse the pictures, the measurements, let them look into their Rolex bibles, let them ask for serials, build dates, services and think about the possibilities if all variations Rolex made in all the time could realisticly apply to this specific watch.

After meanwhile well over 15 years in rep collecting I will just say that this is a very very nice crafted rep and absolutely convincing ! And that's what counts. Sure - if you really have them side by side and analyse carefully, you'll spot some differences - but on the other side, put 2 gens side by side and they'll be different too ! Depends on the history of the watch and the various services, you could get 2 completely different looking gen 1680s... And surely, if you put these 2 gens side by side and let us watch freaks decide which one is real - I bet my watchbox we'll spot the rep out of the 2 gens :)

Andy - you know where to send the rep if you want to part with it ;) and as we found out that we seem to like the same type of watches - I want your rep modified to look more than your gen one (your gen one looks newer ! It's in great shape !).

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Awesome write up Andy.

Still enjoying my MBW 1680 with the latest relume job of you.

Can't see a lot of difference between the Clarks and the gen crystal. Is this also the case in real life ??

Carpe Diem

Cats

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That's one fine looking 1680! Don't be too obsessed with the inner curve of the crown guards... if you wear a gen hard enough you get some really funky looking crown guards, at least what's left of them...

4.jpg

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