How do you test waterproofness of a rep?

[gt rider]

I have read that no rep is waterproof and I have also read that they are. Is there a way I can easily know or test the waterproofness of my watches without exposing them to water?

I'm not looking to dive but I would like to be able to swim and shower with them on. I know non-screw crowns aren't waterproof but what about others? With and without subdial push buttons?

Thanks!

[freddy333]

Either wear it in the water or take it to a watchmaker who has something like this

There are numerous threads on here (use the Search), youtube & on gen forums detailing the process of pressure-testing watches.

[Nanuq]

I like to take risks so I dunk mine in a sink full of blazing hot water. The caseback quickly heats up and heats the air in the case, which increases the pressure. If there's a leak you'll see a stream of bubbles.

[Legend]

I like to take risks so I dunk mine in a sink full of blazing hot water. The caseback quickly heats up and heats the air in the case, which increases the pressure. If there's a leak you'll see a stream of bubbles.

lol and what if you really see the stream of bubbles? Time to send it for repair?

[TeeJay]

I'm like Nanuq, but I'm not Hardcore enough to stick my hand in a sink of boiling water, instead, I run a faucet on full force, and then put my wrist directly under the stream, so it hits on crown, crystal and caseback as much as possible, then take my hand out and wait to see what happens. If a crystal isn't completely sealed, droplets will appear at the edges. In the issue of micro-breaches, there may initially be no droplets at the edges, but eventually with a few moments wear, condensation can appear on the inside edge of the crystal, where upon I dismantle the watch, dry it out, re-check the seals and try again (This mostly only applies to watches which I have 'experimented' with ) I've had two out of over twenty reps which had water resistance issues, the others have all been fine Equally, my Tudor Heritage and plastic submariner don't have screw down crowns, but they are both water resistant (at shower/bathing/swimming levels) as there are two gaskets on the collar of the crowns, which creates a seal Of course, wether any of the reps would survive a dive is a different matter, but, in answer to the thread, that's how I test mine

[panerai153]

Water resistance in reps is pretty hit or miss. you might have a rep submariner that is water resistant to +100 Feet, the next one from the same factory, same model, fails a 3Atm. Water test. For peace of mind, I would test every watch iintended to get wet.Lots of watchmakers have water resistance testers. unfortunately, most are only able to go up to around 3-6 Atm. Not enough to take scuba diving, but good enough for imersion in the sink, or swimming in a shallow pool!

I would be happy to use nanug or teejays method, but I don't have the tools to take the watch apart if it floods. Another caution, if your watch floods in fresh water, it may be salvagable. If it floods in Salt water, unless you are really fast and really lucky,it wil probably be too late.W

[dcam207]

lol and what if you really see the stream of bubbles? Time to send it for repair?

No. you lift it out, and have it resealed.

Due to the hot water it is hot higher pressure air escaping, not water ingress.

Cheers, Dale

[TeeJay]

Something else I forgot to mention, is that I read somewhere than when a watch is at depth, that depth will compress and seal any micro-breaches in the assembly, so if it doesn't flood at low pressure immersions like a faucet or in a glass of water, then it's not going to flood under a greater pressure like swimming or snorkling. I don't know how true that actually is, but, in my experience, if a watch hasn't flooded under a faucet test, it equally hasn't then flooded while showering, bathing, or swimming in strong currents, although I can't report on any depth submersions, as I've never gone diving with one (yet )

[duke1973]

_{In my rep carrer I've only had Rolex models and one Sinn, they were ALL good for swimming in a pool, showering, and the occasional dip in the lake or river. Most of the models I've had were the mid-grade watches with ETA or Asian ETA movements. The Deep Sea model supposedly has an incorrectly designed HEV valve that will leak if not epoxied, I flipped mine as soon as it arrived because it was too big.}

[andreww]

Start by tightening the caseback as they are usually loose. Then put it on the vanity while you have a hot shower. No fog on the inside of the crystal? If it passes that test the I do the hot water test that Nanuq mentioned. Never had a problem, but I never even bother to test chrono watches. To many places for failure on those.

[Rick James]

I had a question about the pressure testers. I understand completely how they work, but I'm curious about quality of sub $1000 models. I see a few brands listed on Amazon and other markets for as low as $200-300. I know these are only rated to 6 atmospheres or so, but I don't drive. However I don't wanna buy a total POS that won't work at all. I was also thinking about how simple the device itself is, seems like something I could make from a $100 paint pressure tank. Those things are steel and it would just need a polycarbonate window cut into it and I'd be good for 100psi (>6 atm) easily, powered by the compressor in my garage.

[TeeJay]

Start by tightening the caseback as they are usually loose. Then put it on the vanity while you have a hot shower. No fog on the inside of the crystal? If it passes that test the I do the hot water test that Nanuq mentioned. Never had a problem, but I never even bother to test chrono watches. To many places for failure on those.

I've had several chronos, none of which flooded under the tests I mentioned above

[Nanuq]

I was also thinking about how simple the device itself is, seems like something I could make from a $100 paint pressure tank.

Even easier... make one out of a Nalgene water bottle. Drill a hole in the lid, cut a valve from a bicycle inner tube and glue it in the hole leaving a nice wide flap of rubber around the hole on the inside.

Hang your watch inside the Nalgene near the top with duct tape, fill it 1/3 with water, pressurize that sucker with your compressor, then tip it on its side so the watch is submerged. Then release the air pressure thru the valve and watch for a BIG stream of bubbles.

Total cost $10 -- mine works up to 90psi before the seal breaks on the opening and it leaks.air.

[Rick James]

Even easier... make one out of a Nalgene water bottle. Drill a hole in the lid, cut a valve from a bicycle inner tube and glue it in the hole leaving a nice wide flap of rubber around the hole on

Hang your watch inside the Nalgene near the top with duct tape, fill it 1/3 with water, pressurize that sucker with your compressor, then tip it on its side so the watch is submerged. Then release the air pressure thru the valve and watch for a BIG stream of bubbles.

Yea that's essentially how what I was thinking of would operate, you would have to tip it over after letting some pressure out. Though one model I saw had a mixer built into the tank, which would allow you to submerge the watch with a very small modification to it, just like a real tester would. The major benefit to my idea is that it would allow you to release pressure very gradually as it's a inherent function of the tank. The downside of the tank is that I'd have to carve a window into it, as well as the higher cost. Here is what they look like: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41rSgFx8dsL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

I may try your method though as a quick test, probably use quick steel epoxy to hold it (I love that stuff, it's damn near indestructible if bonded right.) If i feel like derping around with it, I may try the tank idea later.

Edited August 3, 2012 by Rick James

[txcollector]

I usually open, inspect all o-rings, grease them and carefully put them back together. Then go for a nice 90 ft dive

[Rick James]

Even easier... make one out of a Nalgene water bottle. Drill a hole in the lid, cut a valve from a bicycle inner tube and glue it in the hole leaving a nice wide flap of rubber around the hole on the inside.

So I was bored after work while waiting to go out to dinner and made one of these. I was only able to test up to 3 atm because I kept blowing the seal on the Nalgene brand water bottle. The container needs a better seal. I tried adding a gasket and used epoxy to hold it down to the lip of the bottle so it wouldn't yield to pressure at the bottom and slide out of the way. Either way I tested out 3 watches real quick at 3 atm, one crono, one pam and one omega, all were stock reps that I got from joshua. Didn't see any major bubbling, just a few escaping the bracelet and other places air was trapped, so I guess they're cool for about 20m maybe.

Also I found this thread just now, which is hilarious, because I used the exact same bottle, and same sort of pump and everything. Only difference was I added a metal loop to allow me to tie a watch to the lid:

Edited August 4, 2012 by Rick James

[offshore]

I had a question about the pressure testers. I understand completely how they work, but I'm curious about quality of sub $1000 models. I see a few brands listed on Amazon and other markets for as low as $200-300. I know these are only rated to 6 atmospheres or so, but I don't drive. However I don't wanna buy a total POS that won't work at all. I was also thinking about how simple the device itself is, seems like something I could make from a $100 paint pressure tank. Those things are steel and it would just need a polycarbonate window cut into it and I'd be good for 100psi (>6 atm) easily, powered by the compressor in my garage.

Rick, You are correct that they can be made for $100.

So why would you pay $1000?

The testers being sold at $2-300 are in some cases very good pieces of equipment.

You will see that the one we sell - http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=116

is made in China, but it is a quality piece of equipment. We have each one quality checked before purchase, and have now sold more than 100 with zero problems.

And whilst these home made units can and will work, there is always a very real risk of explosion, which could have devastating results.

Be VERY careful in the use of compressed air, it can have fatal consequences if misused.

Offshore.

[Rick James]

You will see that the one we sell - http://watchbitz.com...d&productId=116

is made in China, but it is a quality piece of equipment. We have each one quality checked before purchase, and have now sold more than 100 with zero problems.

I may buy that unit, the price isn't too bad.

Be VERY careful in the use of compressed air, it can have fatal consequences if misused.

Yup, thats why you always wear your science glasses (goggles)! I also tried to quickly pressurize the container to 2x what I would test at, while out of the line of fire, it wouldn't hold that much pressure very long, but it didn't explode.

[Nanuq]

I filled my Nalgene with hydrogen when I tested my watch, figuring it would get past the seals easier than oxy/nitrogen in the atmosphere, and give a better test.

All went well until my neighbor came in the garage with my dog, smoking a cigarette.

Boy I'm gonna miss that dog.

[Ronin]

When doing a build, I usually assemble the case minus the movement, and run it through a quick cycle in the dishwasher. Mostly Rolex builds. Make sure that heat drying and additional heat the water options are turned OFF, and no soap. This only works with screw down crowns, or PAM CGs.

[Rick James]

@Nanuq

How many atmospheres of pressure would you say is a safe test to consider the watch wearable in a pool. I got my new water bottle built out and I can get as high as 6atm without leaking at all, I could push to 8 or more probably, but I don't want to ruin the rig. Do you think 6atm test is safe for swimming? I've been reading wikipedia/other docs and it seems that standards say 5atm is only good for washing hands and casual short term shallow immersion, while 10atm+ is for actual swimming. Is this true or can I consider 6atm safe for swimming in the "real world"?

Edited August 5, 2012 by Rick James

[Nanuq]

Rick, I know it's an ongoing debate, but 1 lousy atmosphere is 33 feet of water. When you dive to 33 feet, you feel the pressure on your ears and eyes, it's not insignificant. Double that to 2atm and 66' and you're feeling it. Double it again and you're well below where most divers are comfortable, at 135' of pressure. At that depth your no-decomp bottom time is 15 minutes. It's a serious depth, and still 2atm shy of your test at 6atm.

I've fallen into water HARD from various heights and smacked the surface with my watch. I've spent hundreds of hours in fast currents both salt and fresh and I've swum hundreds of laps and never sprung a leak and it's a simple 300' rated watch.

Sure there are hydrodynamic forces involved, but I think the only people that care about them, at all, are desk divers and people that don't count their bottom time with a calendar.

If you can get one atmosphere of seal on your watch, wear it freely for swimming, showering, bathing, the hot tub, and the deep end of the pool. If you can't reach the bottom of where you're swimming freedive with only a facemask, you'll be fine.

If you do flood it, keep it full of water until you get to a watchmaker (without delay) and let him open, clean and oil it for you.

This one spent its life in chambers down to 2,000' and never had a speck of trouble, with annual checks on the seals and pressure tests. Then one day it flooded at 80' through the HE relief valve. It went straight to a Rolex watchmaker and he saved it. I'm wearing it as I write this ... absolutely bulletproof.

[Rick James]

Rick, I know it's an ongoing debate, but 1 lousy atmosphere is 33 feet of water. When you dive to 33 feet, you feel the pressure on your ears and eyes, it's not insignificant. Double that to 2atm and 66' and you're feeling it. Double it again and you're well below where most divers are comfortable, at 135' of pressure. At that depth your no-decomp bottom time is 15 minutes. It's a serious depth, and still 2atm shy of your test at 6atm.

Thanks for the insight! It makes sense that real world is probably more forgiving than the ISO standards. I don't scuba, though I want to try it. I do sometimes free dive with a mask and sometimes snorkel. I know what you mean, I can feel the pressure on a really deep free dive and that's not even very deep. I can feel it in my ears and strangely what feels like my teeth. I guess I can forget about the standards and just enjoy. Even the push button chrono rep i tested to 6atm was fine. I've worn non-screwdown gen TAGs in water for hours (100-200M rated ones), so I suppose I was concerned over nothing. I'll just test to 6atm and call it a day.

This one spent its life in chambers down to 2,000' and never had a speck of trouble, with annual checks on the seals and pressure tests. Then one day it flooded at 80' through the HE relief valve. It went straight to a Rolex watchmaker and he saved it. I'm wearing it as I write this ... absolutely bulletproof.

That's pretty awesome, that watch looks like it has some serious history.

[automatico]

"I had a question about the pressure testers. I understand completely how they work, but I'm curious about quality of sub $1000 models. I see a few brands listed on Amazon and other markets for as low as $200-300. I know these are only rated to 6 atmospheres or so, but I don't drive. However I don't wanna buy a total POS that won't work at all. I was also thinking about how simple the device itself is, seems like something I could make from a $100 paint pressure tank. Those things are steel and it would just need a polycarbonate window cut into it and I'd be good for 100psi (>6 atm) easily, powered by the compressor in my garage."

I had a couple of the Bergeon 5555 pressure testers and both had problems with plastic pressure chambers cracking.

Next, I got a Bergeon 5555-98 with the improved pressure chamber and have had no trouble. You can find good used Bergeon 5555 for around $100/$150 but the 5555-98 will probably be quite a bit more because it is a lot better.

I installed a Shrader valve (like on a car tire etc) in the top of the pressure chamber in place of the pressure release valve so I can pressurize it with a small portable air tank rather than pumping it up every time. The pressure chamber has held fine up to 100 psi many times (100 psi = about 7atm).

Since 7atm is good enough for anything I work on now, I do not need a high pressure (high $$!) tester.

All the F520117 'noob' submariners I tested were good to 2 or 3 atm as were many other replica rolex models after checking gaskets etc (silicon grease on all the O rings etc). I pumped a few 'noobs' up quite a bit more and they were Ok too.

Many watches will leak around the case tube where it screws into the case or around the crown because it does not seal properly to the case tube. Others may leak around the crystal, especially models with the crystal pressed into a thin plastic gasket.

I test them with the movements removed for obvious reasons.

[Rick James]

I had a couple of the Bergeon 5555 pressure testers and both had problems with plastic pressure chambers cracking.

Next, I got a Bergeon 5555-98 with the improved pressure chamber and have had no trouble. You can find good used Bergeon 5555 for around $100/$150 but the 5555-98 will probably be quite a bit more because it is a lot better.

I may have to break down and buy one of the 5555-98s at some point. I was going through all my watches, gens, reps, etc.. and by the end of testing my home-made system was having trouble holding 6atm.

Many watches will leak around the case tube where it screws into the case or around the crown because it does not seal properly to the case tube. Others may leak around the crystal, especially models with the crystal pressed into a thin plastic gasket.

I was surprised that my chrono reps held 6atm, maybe lucky .