Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.
  • Current Donation Goals

How to restore a waterdamaged watch?


netniet

Recommended Posts

For my next project I wanted to build a watch for my girlfriend, and I choose a Rolex 6694. The case size is perfect for her small wrist, and she liked the model. I could easily bought her a complete watch as these watches are not very expensive, I have seen some being sold for around $1600, but I wanted to build it myself. Just because its fun, and for the extra personal touch.

I found a gen 1225 movement in good condition on Fleebay for a good price, and 2 dials. Next on the list was the case, which I found last week on VRM. The only issue was that is damaged by water, but the case still looks very good.

My question is, how to start restoring the watch? I don't need the damaged movement and dial, maybe I could salvage some movement parts, but that's for later. First I probably need to check the inside of the midcase, and replace the crystal.

Here are some photo's of the watch, and one of the possible end result.

post-51669-0-84264200-1414187679_thumb.j

post-51669-0-10746700-1414187697_thumb.j

post-51669-0-13279800-1414187710_thumb.j

post-51669-0-90953000-1414187721_thumb.j

post-51669-0-43234100-1414187734_thumb.j

And the end result should look like this

post-51669-0-69692500-1414187746_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Repairing this movement would be expensive if you have to pay someone to do it. You will also need to know someone who has a rolex parts account because many parts will need to be replaced and buying them from eBay etc will cost a fortune.

The case can be fixed with no problem...new case tube, crown, crystal, gaskets.

 

I have a 15053 that had been drowned in fresh water (salt water is worse) and all that I salvaged was the balance assembly, a couple plates, and the case. For some reason the balance, balance staff, and hair spring were like new but the rest of it was junk and all rusted together. I guess when it filled with water they laid it up and the balance just happened to be out of the water. The case turned out to be fine and I washed all the rust stains out with hot soapy water.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

We are almost there, I stll need a couple of parts (new cannon pinion, and the case clamps), and its finnished. I cleaned up the case, replaced the plexi with a new one. And I have found a 1225 movement in a very good condition, but is was missing some parts, which I found via a great member of this forum.

Here are some photo's of the watch in its current state.

post-51669-0-67828300-1417355593_thumb.j

post-51669-0-54768100-1417355582_thumb.j

post-51669-0-37459200-1417355620_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WCM

 

How I removed the rust from inside my tutone 15053 case...

Removed the bezel, crystal, and case tube.

Soaked the case and case back in 'Liquid Wrench' penetrating oil for a week or so. It is in a spray can and I sprayed it into a small cup.

Rubbed the remaining rust residue away with wooden toothpicks.

Washed the case in hot soapy water with an old toothbrush (Dawn dish washing soap).

 

The case parts came out without a trace of rust.

Rust remover gel will work too but you can not leave it very long as it might discolor the stainless steel.

 

The rust stains on the movement plates never came all the way off and the plates are rough in spots where the plating was leached away. The rust came off unplated brass parts just fine. The steel wheels and pivots in the reversers were rusted away as were most of the train wheel pivots. The hairspring, balance staff, and roller table are fine. The pallet fork and pivot are Ok. The escape wheel is junk. The dial was badly stained but the hands and markers are Ok.

 

No telling where this 15053 was leaking but I have seen quite a few rolex movements with rust on the stem and setting parts from a leaking crown or caseback. The first things rust attacks are the stem, setting parts (set lever etc) screws, and bare steel parts like the click. When they get as bad as the movement pictured, they are usually not worth repairing because of today's parts and labor prices.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up